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Family RVing Magazine

Tech Talk: May 2006

June 1, 2006

Hard Starting

Q: I have a 1998 Holiday Rambler with a 275-horsepower Cummins ISB engine. I bought it used in 2003, and as far as I know, there have been no modifications. It has run well except for a blown fuel line in April of 2005. A repair facility in Florida replaced the two-piece fuel line with a one-piece line. On our next camping trip in May, we returned home and I turned off the engine to unhook the car, but the engine wouldn’t restart after the car was unhooked. I disconnected the negative battery cable to reset the ECM and went to the house for lunch. After I had allowed the coach to sit for about three hours, it started right up. After several trips, I found that the motorhome starts and runs well until it reaches running temperature. If I turn it off for lunch, fuel, or any other reason, it won’t start for at least three hours or until it cools down. Then it starts and runs fine.

I have tried several different suggestions, and even tried to start it with ether. I know this is a no-no, but when you are stranded or think you are, a person will try anything. One dealer unhooked the preheater and started the engine with ether, saying it wouldn’t hurt if the preheater was unhooked. I’ve loosened the fuel caps, put bags of ice on the fuel pump, and even drained a small amount of fuel from the water separator on the engine. Two Freightliner dealers have looked at it, and their computer analysis shows no problem codes.

I have tried to find the engine number, but the data plate that is supposed to be on the bracket above the oil filter is not there. The dealers have suggested that the lift pump, injector pump, solenoid, or fuel lines could be the problem. They have agreed that it is not electronic, since it does start and run well when started cold. Again, I appreciate any and all help with this problem.

David Goodman, F339275
Murray, Kentucky

A: My recommendation is that you go to an Onan Coach Care facility or a Cummins distributor for what appears to be an engine-specific problem. Freightliner dealers are trained by their local Cummins distributor, but I would go directly to the engine service location if I felt that it definitely was an engine issue. I recommend a Cummins or Coach Care facility, because they specialize in motorhomes. As you may have discovered, truck dealers work mostly on trucks, and I believe there is an advantage to finding a location where the technicians have more motorhome expertise.

First thing, make sure the fuel line routing is the same as the original. It may be too near a heat source, causing a vapor lock while the engine is cooling down.

One other thing you can try, which comes from Ray Hobbs, is making sure all the air is purged or bled from the fuel system. Per Cummins, bump the key briefly to engage the starter, leaving the key ON for 30 seconds “” while the electronic transfer pump runs “” then turn the key off. This procedure may have to be repeated five or ten times to purge all residual air from the fuel system. If this doesn’t work, mention air in the lines to the technician when you take the coach in for servicing.

The technician at the service location can show you the data tag. They are often difficult to locate in a motorhome installation. If you have the paperwork from your fuel line change, it likely would reference the engine serial number used for the warranty work.


Rubber Recovery

Q: What can I use to dress my tires with after storing them for the winter? They were uncovered and out in the air and sun for four months. I am concerned that the rubber will deteriorate, and I have read that they need to be protected somehow. Is there a product that I can get?

Thomas C. Morton Jr., F102205D
West Chester, Pennsylvania

A: You should have a protective barrier between the tires and whatever they’re sitting on. Products designed for this use are available from FMC magazine advertisers and commercial members. Heavy-duty cardboard or plywood also will work. You also should protect them from the sun with either cloth, plywood, or one of the commercially available products that are expressly designed for this purpose. Other than that, the best thing you can do is keep them clean. Wash them with plain soap and water. Just make sure all soap is rinsed off when you’re finished.

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City Water Connection
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Readers’ Forum: May 2006

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