It seems to operate normally otherwise. Can you tell me what is causing this or if something needs to be replaced?
Jim Beaudreault, New Bern, North Carolina
Jim, the growling noise you are hearing probably is caused by a fuel delivery or air mixture problem. Since proper combustion requires mixing LP gas with air, the oven compartment is vented through the cooktop to allow air to enter the oven as well as cooking odors to be exhausted. Therefore, please make sure there is no aluminum foil lining the burner box directly under the cooktop. Although this does tend to keep the stovetop burner cavity clean, it can affect the secondary air mixture in a negative way.
Likewise, be sure nothing blocks the horizontal opening in the upper rear section of the oven compartment. Using a flashlight, perform a quick inspection of the primary air inlet at the rear of the oven burner tube. You may have to remove the bottom oven pan to actually see the inlet. This air shutter controls the amount of primary air that gets mixed with the LP gas on its way to the burner. Make sure the air shutter opening is not obstructed. You can clean it with low-pressure compressed air or a clean rag. If there is no visible air restriction, you should have the LP-gas system inspected and the delivery pressure measured by a qualified RV service technician. A manometer must be used to measure the LP-gas pressure, and only a qualified tech should adjust the air mixture to ensure a proper flame and for optimal combustion.
Lumpy Linoleum
Dear RV Doctor:
We purchased a brand-new motorhome from a local dealer. We’ve had many issues, but the biggest one started with a slideout malfunctioning and ripping a hole in the linoleum floor. Obviously, the floors in these units are all one piece, so it meant leaving the unit with the dealer to have the warranty work done. At the time he mentioned it probably would be going back to the manufacturer since it was “too big of a job” for them to do at the dealership. When we called back after a month to check on the status, we were told that they were going to be doing the work themselves. After our coach spent two-plus months at the dealer, we were told it was done. We walked into the coach to discover a floor that was significantly bubbled up in many places. The dealer stated it was completely normal, that the new floor needs to “settle” and the bubbles will work out. I am beginning to doubt that it is truly fixed correctly. I’ve never seen a brand-new coach with a bubbled floor. Any insight you could give me would be much appreciated.
Jackie O’Brien, Milford, New Hampshire
I’m so sorry to hear about your troubles with a brand-new unit, Jackie. Obviously, dealers are poised to service many repair items on the units they deliver, but then again, some tasks require very specialized equipment and material-handling capabilities that are usually better met at the manufacturer. Sidewall replacements, full roof replacement, and slideout replacements come to mind. Flooring replacement, to my knowledge, however, is usually performed at the dealership. Though difficult and time-consuming, it is still doable at the dealer level in most cases. Of course, the dealer is beholden to the manufacturer with issues of warranty repair. It’s quite possible the manufacturer directed the dealer to perform the repair and that the staff was not fully equipped to do it.
It’s my opinion that a new linoleum floor should not show bubbles when prepped and installed correctly. Logic alone rebuffs the “completely normal” mind-set. The unknown factor here is the effects of weather during the preparation and installation. It’s not unfathomable that the bubbling will subside during warmer months, but my first reaction is that they should not be there if the floor was properly prepped and cemented, and rolled out evenly. If indeed the bubbles disappear, I would still have the dealer note that the bubbles were present soon after the repair and that the warranty coverage should be extended the same number of days that the coach was in for repair. Those days you cannot use the RV as an RV because it was in the shop should be added to the end of the warranty period. Also, you should contact the manufacturer directly to express your concern with the linoleum lumps.
Excessive Current Usage
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a 28-foot 1994 Fleetwood Flair. At the campground, my electricity bill is three times higher than that of all my neighbors. I may run two lights, a flat-screen TV, and the refrigerator when plugged in. The batteries are 2 years old and test fine. All the 12-volt runs well. Can my convertor be the problem? I know it’s working, but could it be drawing too much power?
John Brown, Parker, Arizona
John, I believe you might be confusing the AC with the DC system; the inside lamps would be 12-volt DC while the refrigerator and flat-screen would be 120 volts AC. If your campground bills you for electricity, it would be for the 120-volt-AC electricity delivered through the shoreline power cord, not the 12-volt DC produced by the batteries or the convertor (although the convertor will draw on the shore power while it operates). But without more information, it would be next to impossible for me to determine where the excess AC power draw originates. One question I have “” are you running any appliances periodically that may be high-draw items? This would include excessive use of the rooftop air conditioner, microwave, toaster, hair dryer, curling iron, or similar high-demand appliances.
The best method of measuring current draw on any of the AC circuits is by using a clamp-around ammeter. They may be pricey for the typical do-it-yourselfer, but professional RV technicians could not exist without one. It is a current-measuring device that simply and easily clamps over the “hot” wire of any AC circuit. It is not necessary to disconnect any wiring. If you can obtain one, the easiest test to perform is at the panelboard distribution box (breaker box). Remove the cover to expose the 120-volt wiring that runs into each breaker. Carefully clamp the meter around the black wire going into each breaker, one at a time. Make sure the clamp closes completely around the wire. The meter will indicate how much current is being drawn for that circuit.
Possible causes of excessive power draw are a failing convertor module, a faulty rooftop air blower or compressor, an incorrectly wired inverter, or a short in the electrical system. You’ll want to avoid any potentially dangerous situations. You also didn’t mention whether you have an electric water heater, which will use 1,200 to 1,500 watts. A desktop computer will use 150 to 500 watts. An older fridge will be less efficient as well, so you might consider running it on LP gas for a billing period to ascertain the difference in usage. Speaking of that, you might want to disconnect from shore power entirely for a billing period to determine if it’s your coach that’s using all the electricity, or if it is being lost somewhere between the meter and your RV (you might be paying for other campsites).
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