Water leaks
Dear RV Doctor:
Unfortunately, my husband did not properly winterize our 1986 Southwind. When we fill the fresh water tank, we have no problems, but when the water pump goes on, the leaks start. When we inspect the area under the RV, we do not see any leaks around plumbing pipes. There are leaks by the storage bins and around some electrical wires. There are no leaks under the kitchen sink and no leaks under the shower or toilet or bathroom sinks. How do we fix the leaks if we can’t find the source? Where should we look for leaks, and how do we get there?
Jacque Dunlap, North Olmsted, Ohio
Jacque, if the fresh water system was not drained completely or properly, the water heater may have ruptured or, at the very least, a fitting may have been damaged. Check for water around the water heater tank first; be sure to feel around it as much as possible, because the tank is surrounded by a foam shell. If the tank is damaged, the water may be somewhat contained by the foam. At the rear of the water heater, from inside the coach, check the outlet fitting at the top and the cold water inlet at the bottom. If you have a water heater bypass valve kit installed, check those valves for dripping also; likewise for any water filter or purifier in the system. It is also possible that the pump itself has ruptured; inspect the pump head for leaks.
Water will always seek its own level and flow downward, but it won’t necessarily be in the most direct way, so the areas where the water is dripping from the coach may not be where it’s actually leaking. Check all lines and fittings in accessible areas. Don’t forget external areas like the outside showerhead, if so equipped. Trace the plumbing as far as you can from the sinks, toilet, pump, and water heater tank. If you cannot locate a leak in the areas mentioned, then it could be that the leak is under the floor or behind a wall. In that case, you probably should seek professional help. Access for plumbing repairs generally is accomplished by coming up through the bottom whenever possible rather than down through the floor.
Another option is to fully drain the water system and use pressurized air (50-60 psi) instead of water pump pressure. A fitting called a blowout plug can be attached to the city water inlet and compressed air injected. This will eliminate the water mess as you search for each leak. A soapy solution can be applied to fittings as when leak-testing an LP-gas system. Bubbles will form at the leak. Freeze-damaged tubing will be quite evident. You’ll see bulged portions with a slit running in the same direction as the tubing. The good news is ruptured tubing can be cut out easily and replaced using new fittings. The bad news is that there may be several ruptures. You’ll have to run a pressure test (air or water) after each repair is completed until the system will hold pressure for about 10 minutes. Wish I had better news for you, but the remedy is easy once you locate each leak in the system.
Funky furnace
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a 1992 Damon motorhome. My propane heater makes a loud howling during startup. The heater is located under a dinette seat, and I find if I pound on the cowling over the heater, the noise stops. But when the heater starts up again, the same thing happens. I inspected the outside access and can’t seem to find anything wrong with the squirrel fans. They are tight. What type of troubleshooting should I conduct to find the problem? I was thinking about removing the cowling over the heater to see whether something needs to be tightened. Also, my alarms go off when the heater is blowing hot air. It smells like it could be carbon monoxide.
Lee O’Neill, Marquette, Michigan
Lee, do not “” I repeat “” do not use the furnace again until it’s been repaired! This is very important, because a faulty furnace could kill you! Although the howling noise could be caused by vibration, resonance, or a foreign object inside your furnace, the fact that the CO or LP detector is going off and you can smell “gas” is a much more telltale and dangerous sign. This is an indication of incomplete combustion. The howling you are hearing could be the sound of the burner fuel simply not mixing properly with the air, thus causing faulty combustion. In some furnaces, a primary air adjustment can eliminate the howling. Without a brand or model number, though, it is impossible to discern whether yours is the adjustable type. I’m more concerned about the odor that is emitted. The most common by-products of incomplete combustion are aldehydes (poisonous gases) and CO, both of which are extremely toxic.
Like a howling noise, the incomplete combustion could be caused by the same improper mixture of air and LP gas in the combustion chamber. A loose or damaged combustion wheel could contribute to this as well. It also could be caused by a partial airflow blockage or an incorrectly adjusted or damaged burner component. Whichever the case, it is imperative you have the furnace serviced as soon as possible by a qualified RV service center. They are trained and certified to troubleshoot, repair, and service the LP-gas appliances. All LP-gas appliances should be cleaned and serviced at least once a year. There is a set of specific maintenance steps to be performed on each appliance.
{loadpositionEndBlurbHouseCalls}