Lost electricity
I have an electrical problem in my 2000 Monaco La Palma. I have lost the 120-volt-AC power to the kitchen and forward part of the vehicle, the wall circuits, the TV and VCR, the refrigerator, etc. The air conditioner works great and the other receptacles are okay. I am moderately technically competent and have checked the circuit breakers and GFI, which are all working. Do you have any suggestions as to what my problem might be and how I might fix it?
One important clue that I left out: everything works fine when the generator is used as a power source. The loss only happens when using shore power.
Don Messick, F401020
San Antonio, Texas
If the lost circuit involves the refrigerator and the refrigerator’s receptacle is available to the exterior, it must be ground fault protected. Often this circuit goes to the GFCI receptacle first, then to the balance of that leg. To fault trace, turn off all the other breakers. Then start with the breaker that controls that circuit. Use a non-contact voltage detector. If you don’t have one, buy one, because they are indispensable for testing AC circuits. There should be at least one problem receptacle that has voltage going in but not coming out. Go one by one (the tester will slip into the small slot of the receptacle). There is bound to be one receptacle that is not passing the current along. If that isn’t the problem, then there could be a separation in the AC wire somewhere; however, this is highly improbable.
I also would make sure the grounding circuit has good, tight connections at the breaker box and at the point the land line ties into the coach wiring. If the problem persists, I would replace the GFCI. I must presume that the service post does not have a GFCI and that there are no “adapters,” 30-amp splitters, or 50-amp cheaters involved. If there are, take them out and use the available 30-amp.
HHR hitchhiker
I tow a 2007 Chevrolet HHR, and the owners manual states that I must remove the number 8 fuse when towing so that I won’t run down the battery since the key is in the “accessory” position. I have been told that an aftermarket replacement fuse with a switch on it is available. Do you know anything about this product and where I might find it? We have to manually remove this fuse every time we hook up the car for towing, and a “switchable fuse” would be much easier.
Tom Lynch, F373741
Lake Havasu City, Arizona
RV-Parts Plus (877-266-5398; www.rv-partsplus.com/home/accessories) carries the Fuse Switch, which plugs directly into the slot that the fuse was removed from. The apparatus includes a fuse in the line between the fuse panel and the switch that is designed to carry the same amperage as the fuse that was removed. Just flip the toggle switch to “off” and the circuit is interrupted. When you’re finished towing and want to drive the towed vehicle, flip the switch to “on” and the circuit is opened again. The Fuse Switch is available for single-fuse circuits and two-fuse circuits.
Vapor lock revisited
I bet you received at least 100 e-mails about the response to the “Vapor Lock?” letter in the August 2008 issue (page 22) regarding the perceived vapor lock issue. The Ford F-53 motorhome chassis with a 460 V-8 engine is known to have a very weak fuel pump. It will exhibit the symptoms described (backfiring, sputtering, shutdown) on either a hot day or when the fuel is low. My mechanic did a static test (dead head) and found the pressure to be the same as when running (below spec). Refer to Ford Technical Service Bulletin 97-23-9 “” “Fuel Pump – Availability Of New Turbine Style Fuel Pump And Sender – F Super Duty Motorhome Chassis” “” which applies to 1989 through 1997 F-53 chassis.
Dave Bendt, F377081
Pekin, Illinois
Thanks, Dave, for sharing this information.
Gassy gasket
I’m having trouble with an air leak at the top of the freezer door on a Dometic side-by-side refrigerator (model NDR 1292). I have already had it to two dealers and spent more than $400 with them, yet the problem still exists. I called Dometic and was told that I might need to replace the seal around the door, but that I would have to buy both seals, as they are only sold in pairs, which would cost well over $200. Before going to that expense, bringing my outlay to nearly $700, I was wondering whether there are any other solutions or another course of action to correct my problem. I would sure appreciate any help.
Charles Devett, F238987
Revloc, Pennsylvania
On a good-sealing refrigerator door, without an ice maker, you should expect to defrost every month or two. On refrigerators with an ice maker, defrosting is required more often, as the water for the ice creates more frost. Just realize you will get frost in the freezer!
To check your seal, open the refrigerator-side door and with a flashlight inspect the door gasket around the freezer-side door to ensure that it is contacting 100 percent all the way around the door. Inspect the seal between the white plastic liner where it meets the metal frame (just inside the area where the gasket contacts the metal frame “” where the metal meets the white plastic). There must be no air gaps in this white-surface silicon seal. Be sure the door does not hit anything (shelf guards, trays, frozen foods, etc.) when it is being closed. The door should swing freely. If it rubs on the bottom, shim up the door hinge with a flat washer (you must take the door off).
If the freezer is accumulating no more than ¼-inch of frost in a three-week or four-week period, consider that pretty normal. Also, your personal habits can greatly affect the amount of frost, so pay attention to how often you open the freezer and how long you leave it open. If there is much more than 1/4-inch of frost buildup, then you should do the gasket inspection and the liner seal inspection. Don’t replace the door gaskets until all other factors are addressed.
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