All Cracked Up
Dear RV Doctor:
My living room window was broken when our deck table fell through it during a storm. Do you have to take the whole window out to fix it? It was the bottom portion of the window that broke.
Gail Leavitt, Sebring, Florida
Unfortunately, Gail, in most cases the answer is yes. The complete window assembly will have to be removed and then disassembled in order to replace the broken glass in that lower section. It certainly isn’t a huge ordeal to remove and reinstall the window, but it will take two or three people, depending on the size of the window. Typically, the window sandwiches the wall between the outer frame and a piece of garnish trim around the perimeter located inside the RV.
Begin by removing all the screws from around the garnish trim piece and set the trim aside. Next, carefully insert a wide-blade putty knife under the exterior flange of the window to break the seal of the existing sealant. Have someone support the window from the outside as you gently push from the inside. At this point, all that is holding the window in place is the sealant around the perimeter of the exterior. Work the putty knife around the frame as you carefully push the window out of the opening through the sidewall. Once the window has been removed, clean off all remnants of caulk or sealant from around the window flange and what may be left around the opening in the sidewall. Always use fresh sealant when reinstalling the window.
Once the window is out and cleaned off, it can be disassembled. Depending on the brand of window, somewhere around the perimeter of the frame you should find a joining strip where the two ends of the formed frame come together. It is probably secured with rivets or screws. Either way, it will have to be taken apart in order to remove the rest of the broken glass. Or better yet, take the entire window assembly, in one piece, to the glass shop and have them disassemble and reassemble the window. They also will be able to seal the window properly within its frame. You’ll only have to seal against leaks as you reinstall the window back in the motorhome. I recommend using Eternabond double-stick tape when reinstalling the window in the motorhome. The Eternabond tape will help hold the window in place as you reinstall it, as well as seal it, but you should still have someone help you put it back in place.
From the outside, be sure there are no gaps anywhere around the perimeter of the window after all the screws through the trim have been reinstalled. It may be necessary to install new screws “” one size larger “” if any appear to strip as you tighten them. Next, inspect the entire outside perimeter of the window. If any gaps exist between the window and the sidewall, water will have an entrance, and that is the biggest threat to guard against. In some cases, a double layer of sealing tape is required to ensure that no gaps remain. If necessary, use a thin bead of silicone sealant along the top edge of the window just to be sure. The bottom line is that you do not want any water intrusion. I also recommend that you install new vinyl-backed foam tape on the inside flange of the garnish trim. It should fully compress when you tighten the mounting screws, thereby effectuating a tight vapor seal. That should do it!
Keep in mind, if this repair appears too daunting for you, any number of local RV shops would be more than happy to perform the removal and reinstallation of the window for you.
Going Green?
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a relatively new motorhome and have noticed that all of the LP-gas system copper tubing lines are corroded green. The worst-looking ones are in the areas where the mounting brackets and support clips are screwed to the frame. Is this being caused by stray currents of electricity? The unit was bought brand-new six months ago and, unfortunately, the manufacturer has filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection and will not warranty this problem. I am concerned for the safety of my family. I have turned off the valve at the LP-gas container. Any ideas on how to resolve this problem?
Alan Le, Deltona, Florida
First of all, Alan, allow me to calm your fears regarding stray electrical currents. Chances are, that is not the case. A series of specific tests by a certified RV technician can confirm that, however.
It is not uncommon for copper tubing to oxidize at a rapid rate in certain areas of Florida. I grew up in Florida, and I didn’t know copper tubing came in any other color but green until I moved to California. The green patina of your existing tubing is also exacerbated by the mounting methods typically employed by RV manufacturers. A process called galvanic corrosion takes place between any two dissimilar metals. For example, your copper tubing is most likely secured to the steel frame and held in place by either aluminum or zinc-plated clamps. Discoloration is further accelerated by the salty Florida air, so the non-ferrous copper will quickly turn a shade of green. Serious oxidation, typically on older coaches, may cause eventual pitting, pinholes, and possible LP-gas leaks, but on a unit six months old, this is doubtful.
To be sure, however, have an RV technician perform a timed pressure drop test on the LP-gas system. This will verify that no leaks are present anywhere in the system. At the same time, the technician can verify that the correct delivery pressure is being fed to the appliances. This is a very common and relatively inexpensive procedure that should be performed annually anyway.
To minimize the effects of galvanic corrosion, here are a few things you can do. First, insulate the tubing by wrapping all exposed copper in slit foam insulation wrap or black electrical tape. Another preventive measure is to replace the metal clamps that secure the tubing to the frame with insulated clamps “” ones with a rubber insert, so only the rubber portion makes contact with the tubing. You might even add a few extra wraps of electrical tape around the tubing at each clamp position. At the same time, place a thick washer or two behind each clamp, so a gap exists between the tubing and the steel frame. The key is to make sure the tubing does not physically contact the steel frame at any point.
Where copper tubing branches off and routes up and to the individual appliances, make sure grommets are in place anywhere the tubing passes through the frame, floor, or wall. Hope this helps!
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