Keep ‘Em Clean And Dry
Dear RV Doctor:
You have taught me so much over the years. You have discussed every aspect of vehicle care, including the importance of taking proper care of your tires. I know you’ve mentioned that something should be placed between your tires and the concrete. What type of material should be used?
Harry Anderson
Smyrna, Tennessee
If you’ve attended one of my tire seminars, you know I’m a big proponent of keeping moisture, dirt, and grime from accumulating on motorhome tires, as well as preserving and protecting them from ozone and the ultraviolet rays of the sun during periods of nonuse. Sure, they’ll get dirty while traveling, but be sure to wash them with a mild detergent as soon as you can after coming off the road. Applying a product such as 303 Aerospace Protectant (which does not contain silicone or petroleum distillates) to help preserve and protect the rubber also will go a long way.
You needn’t worry too much about parking on concrete, but when the motorhome is parked on asphalt, it’s advisable to have a barrier between the tires and the asphalt surface. Though wooden blocks often are used to separate the tires from the ground as well as to lift that corner of the motorhome, I also favor a separation between the blocks and the tires to avoid excessive moisture and/or heat buildup. Plastic, web-like blocks are available that allow you to accomplish this. There are many types of blocks on the market, but look for the kind that will drain and not trap moisture.
Anode Aggravation
Dear RV Doctor:
I don’t have a question, but rather a comment about leaving a broken anode in a water heater. In a motorhome I once owned, the anode in the water heater disintegrated and left a pile of coarse, sandlike material in the tank that got sucked into the system. The debris got into the toilet flush line and plugged the filter frequently, becoming a raging pain in the neck. And it was very difficult to clean out. I don’t think I’d want any portion of an anode in my tank after that awful experience.
Larry Bourne
Silver City, New Mexico
I agree that it would be far better to remove what remained of the anode, but, unfortunately, there’s really no easy way (if any) to accomplish that task. I would recommend that the owner flush out the water heater every month as a precaution. That, and possibly add a KDF-type filtration system to remove the finer particles that may exit the tank.
I am perplexed, however, at how something isolated to the hot side of the fresh water system migrated to the toilet. If anything, you’d expect that “sand” to be expelled through a hot faucet. Or simply lie dormant on the bottom of the water heater tank until flushed out through the drain. But your advice is well taken. Experience is often the best teacher!
Frustrating Leak
Dear RV Doctor:
I am very frustrated! I purchased a preowned 2005 motorhome and I had no problems until recently.
I often stay at a resort site and asked several other owners about pressure regulators. I only had a trickle of water “” and they didn’t use one “” so I took it off. I checked under all the sinks and saw no problems, and then I left for about four days. When I came back, I noticed a wet spot on the floor in a corner near the slideout and under the refrigerator.
I called a mobile RV repair person who came out to investigate the problem. He didn’t even let me tell him about my pressure theory, but he announced that my slideout was leaking. He said that all slideouts have the potential to leak and they should be retracted whenever it rains. That made no sense to me at all. He told me to put silver tape over the rubber seams and left without charging me.
I reconnected the city water hose and checked it about two hours later; it was wetter than before. I looked under the back left area of the motorhome (approximately where I figured the leak would be), but the underbelly is enclosed. I pushed up on the belly and water started dripping. I don’t know how to get in there to look at anything. It is not pouring out, but dripping. I still think there’s a small leak in the line behind the compartment where the fresh water enters the coach. Any ideas?
Linda Martin
Lacey, Washington
I hear your frustration, and it frustrates me greatly that some service technicians are simply not very good troubleshooters! The first step as a troubleshooter is to listen to the customer.
Now, maybe the slideout seals were indeed leaking “” that is a problem with some designs “” but taping over the seal is most certainly not a viable repair tactic. It’s also apparent that you have a leak in the fresh water system; maybe not a hole, but quite simply a leak at a connection that may have been caused by the bouncing and twisting of the coach as it travels down the road.
As for pressure regulation, I always recommend a regulator if the incoming city pressure exceeds 65 psi. Perhaps the maintenance person at the resort could measure the city pressure at your site to determine if a regulator is truly necessary. Still, it is apparent a seeping leak exists and must be located and repaired before structural damage occurs. Mold and mildew are also a concern if left unattended. Water retention should never be allowed to occur between the floor and subfloor.
It’s paramount that you have a certified RV service technician inspect, diagnose, and repair the leak(s) as soon as possible. Leak repairs should not be that difficult to diagnose with the proper testing equipment. It can be determined in a matter of 15 minutes if a leak does exist. The repair, however, may be more difficult to effectuate, but a quick diagnosis could lead to a quicker repair. Try to locate a service facility in your area that employs certified or master certified RV service technicians. These industry certifications are awarded by Recreation Vehicle Industry Association and Recreation Vehicle Dealers Association and indicate that the technician is qualified to perform professional RV troubleshooting and subsequent repairs. Look for the certification patch on any RV technician working on your motorhome.
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