In Hot Water
Dear RV Doctor:
I was told that it is best to drain your hot water tank after each excursion, so I replaced the anode with a petcock. I now drain the water out, but I am curious as to the soundness of this plumbing exchange. Any advice would be appreciated.
Gary Geis, Monessen, Pennsylvania
As far as draining after each trip, much depends on how often your excursions take place. Personally, I would only drain the water heater in preparation for winter storage, before a lengthy period of nonuse, when servicing the water heater, or when chlorinating the fresh water system. You also might consider draining it should you encounter foul water during a trip. Remember, the anode in the water heater is a necessity when the heater is in use, but only for Suburban and the older American Appliance brands of water heaters. Water passing through the tank creates electrolysis, which will corrode the inside walls of the tank. The anode is the sacrificial component that prevents the tank itself from becoming damaged. In the case of an Atwood water heater, which does not require an anode, be sure to use a plastic drain plug and not a metal one, so as to avoid electrolysis.
If you still want to drain the tank, simply remove the anode/drain plug. On the older American Appliance heaters, the anode had a separate connection on the rear of the tank; plus they were equipped with a drain cock anyway. I realize it is probably easier draining with the valve, but it’s more important to have that anode in the tank. In the long term, it will be worth the extra time it may take to drain the heater.
As a side note, I’ve seen some misinformation posted on online blogs recently and wish to clarify when to replace the anode. Suburban recommends replacing the anode annually or when the rod deteriorates to 25 percent of its original size. Frequent travelers may need to replace the anode more than once per year, but, typically, once per camping season will suffice. If you are a full-timer or travel often, check the anode at six-month intervals and replace it when it’s 75 percent deteriorated.
Sultry Summer Storage
Dear RV Doctor:
I usually store my motorhome outside in central Florida from April to December, and I have a couple of questions. First, how do you stop dampness from building up in the RV that potentially could lead to the formation of mold in the heat of the summer? My hatches have covers. Should I leave the hatch open slightly or should I close them tight? Should I cover the windows with a reflective barrier to prevent the sun from shining into the coach? Thanks for your help.
Barry Robinson, Fort Myers, Florida
Storing a motorhome for any period of nonuse requires some key considerations. In your case, the process will vary slightly from my typical recommendations for winter storage.
Having grown up just a few miles north of you in Bradenton, I know how sultry Florida summers can be! The key concern for storing the motorhome in a warm, moist climate is to prohibit the buildup of moisture and to prevent mold growth. The first thing you need to verify is that there are absolutely zero water leaks in the coach. Inspect the roof, roof components, windows, doors, compartment doors “” literally everything screwed or attached to any exterior surface must be verified to be leak-free. Likewise, the plumbing systems must not have any leakages. I recommend blowing out all the fresh water plumbing lines, thereby rendering the entire fresh system void of water. However, make sure to keep water in the toilet bowl, the P-traps, and in the bottom of each holding tank.
Here’s another difference between storing the motorhome in the summer as opposed to winter storage. In the winter, I like to see the coach completely airtight. But during the hot, humid months of summer, there should be some airflow through the motorhome. If you have a MaxxAir vent or similar cover over the 14-inch roof vents, leave a vent open at one end of the motorhome and keep a window cracked at the other end of the vehicle “” preferably a window close to the floor so convection air can flow through the interior. I know it will rain, so protect the window opening with some plastic sheeting or something else that can block any sideways raindrops that might enter. This is the toughest part, obviously, but doable.
Another option is a total coach cover. A custom cover that allows breathing to take place is preferred. With a custom cover, you’ll be able to allow air in through the open roof vent and draw in fresh air through that window without the fear of rainwater entering the motorhome.
Aftermarket desiccant containers are readily available from many retailers. They will absorb the moisture that will indeed enter the motorhome. Place them on pie tins at various locations throughout the vehicle. I’d rather deal with collecting the moisture than tightly sealing the coach. A hot, stuffy, humid interior will further the proliferation of mold faster than one with ventilation, even though moisture will undoubtedly enter. Heat is one of the biggest generators of mold. The desiccant granules will absorb the excess moisture. You may need three or four containers, depending on the length of the motorhome. But in my opinion, a ventilated coach will be a cooler environment and less prone to mold development.
Yes, cover the windows! I recommend that 1/2-inch-thick sections of Styrofoam be cut for each window opening. They can be form-fitted or taped in place. Be sure to treat and cover the tires as well. Also, bring all the slideouts to the retracted position. You should be just fine come December.
Maintenance-Free?
Dear RV Doctor:
How do I know whether I have maintenance-free batteries in my motorhome, or if I have to periodically check the water levels?
Kirk Pohl, St. Louis, Missouri
Those so-called maintenance-free batteries will have nonremovable cell caps or no caps at all. Personally, I believe the term “maintenance-free” is really a misnomer, because even if a battery has no access to measure the specific gravity of each cell using a hydrometer, the terminals still must be kept clean and free from oxidation and corrosion. In other words, some maintenance must still be performed if you want to get optimum performance out of the batteries. Rather than specific gravity readings, voltage measurements can suffice for checking the state of charge. (See the accompanying chart.)
If you do not see removable caps on the top of the batteries, chances are they are considered the maintenance-free type. Keep in mind, some batteries will have only two caps that cover three cells each; they may not have six individual cell caps.
State-of-Charge and Open Circuit Voltage for Various Types of 12-volt Batteries
Battery Electrolyte Type
State of Charge Flooded AGM Gel
100% 12.6 12.9 12.8
75% 12.4 12.7 12.6
50% 12.2 12.4 12.3
25% 12.0 12.0 12.0
0% 11.8 11.8 11.8
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