Refrigerator Leveling
Dear RV Doctor:
We recently purchased a preowned 2007 motorhome. We haven’t actually camped in it yet but have done some local driving to get used to it. We’ve read about the need to level the motorhome so the refrigerator works properly and understand the necessity. We have a two-door unit (top freezer and bottom refrigerator). My husband is concerned about the motorhome being level while driving, such as on hills and mountains. Should we be?
Rosemary Palazzolo, Tucson, Arizona
Leveling is important when operating an absorption refrigerator in any mode (12-volt-DC, 120-volt-AC, or LP-gas), but only when the motorhome is stationary. When the vehicle is traveling down the road, there is enough jostling and movement to keep the liquids and vapors safely flowing through the sealed system of the refrigerator. Leveling the motorhome is necessary only when the vehicle is not in motion. And with today’s cooling core design, it’s not as crucial as it used to be.
Today, as long as the motorhome is “relatively” level, the cooling unit will be safe. I once asked a refrigerator manufacturer what “relatively” level really meant, and the bottom line is this: if the eggs don’t roll off the countertop or if the blood doesn’t rush to your head while you’re sleeping, the refrigerator will be fine. Even so, while standing still, try to get it as level as possible. It’s just not worth the risk, in my opinion.
Operating the refrigerator when it is not level creates an inordinate amount of heat at the rear of the unit, especially in the boiler area. Coupled with improper ventilation, this extra heat can escalate very quickly into potentially costly troubles. When overheating occurs over a period of time, the sodium chromate inside the pipes begins to crystallize. (Sodium chromate is used to protect the insides of the tubing from the corrosiveness of the ammonia.) Typically, the blockage will occur in the percolator tube, one of the smallest of the internal tubes inside the cooling core. The percolator tube inside the boiler section can become impassable because of the blockage. When this happens, the cooling unit is blocked and cannot be repaired. It must be replaced with a new or reconditioned unit.
Leveling is one of the two most important factors to consider when using the RV absorption refrigerator. As mentioned, the other is ventilation. There must be a continuous, chimney-like ventilation space behind the refrigerator all the way up and through the roof. But tell your hubby that as long as he keeps moving, he need not be concerned.
Slideout With Water
Dear RV Doctor:
I’m a single woman and have a 2010 Fleetwood Bounder. When it rains and I bring the slideout in and retract the levelers, water from on top of the slideout comes pouring into the motorhome. My RV dealer says this is normal. It’s quite a bit of water, and others I know do not have this issue. Shouldn’t there be a seal to stop the water from coming in?
Linda Frederickson, Centennial, Colorado
Indeed, this is not a normal situation. There should be a wiper seal around the slideout room opening that squeegees most of the water off the top as the room is retracted. The seal may not remove absolutely all the moisture, but it certainly should wipe most of it away as the room retracts. Apparently, the room needs to be adjusted or the seals need to be replaced (doubtful on a new unit).
Have a certified RV service technician inspect the centering and all the adjustment points on the slideout. In a worst-case scenario, an aftermarket topper awning can be installed that will protect the room’s top surface when extended. The topper awning will extend and retract with the room. It’s an advantageous add-on device, since it also will keep the room cooler in the summer. But I’d question the “normal” claim of the dealer.
Water Pump Failures
Dear RV Doctor:
We have a Forest River Berkshire Type A motorhome and have had five failed water pumps made by SHURflo for our fresh water system.
Carol Plue, F250740, Pattersonville, New York
I’m not exactly sure what your question is, but it amazes me that you’ve gone through five water pumps! Has anyone been able to determine what’s causing the pumps to fail? And more importantly, which component(s) on the pump(s) are failing? SHURflo has a very fine product line and stands behind its pumps. Personally, I’m a big fan of the company’s pumps. I recently produced a short video highlighting the features of the new 4008 water pump (www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhrHT-2PYwk&feature=player_embedded). Keep in mind that it’s difficult to simply wear out a pump, especially with the unique design of SHURflo’s pump head. Be sure you have a filter/strainer installed between the tank and the pump. A regularly cleaned strainer will keep particles of what I call “tank trash” from migrating from the tank to the pump, causing harm. And be sure there is plenty of ventilation around the pump motor. If the motor is the component that’s failing, it could be heat-related. But these units are equipped with an integral, automatically resettable overload protective device to prevent the motor from being damaged due to overheating. A technician also should check the voltage at the pump. I would love to learn what caused your pumps to fail.
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