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Family RVing Magazine

House Calls: February 2012

March 1, 2012

Holding Tank Installation

Dear RV Doctor:
I recently bought an older Type C motorhome and just noticed that the dump valves on the gray and black water tanks had been broken off at one time. It appears the previous owner tried to repair the tanks with some kind of sealant, which, naturally, didn’t hold. I bought a small mending kit with a two-part epoxy to try to seal the tanks but have been thinking about just replacing them. I am very familiar with plumbing, so to set up a new system would be a piece of cake. However, I’ve noticed that new replacement tanks have no hole on the top for the toilet flange to adapt to. Do I have to cut my own hole? What is the best way to go about it?

Don Tyrrell, Bellport, New York

That’s true, Don. Since the floor plan dictates where the plumbing enters the holding tank, new aftermarket holding tanks do not come with precut holes for the drain or the vent. That means you will have to determine where the holes go.

First, you’ll have to remove the toilet and the floor flange. They can be connected to the tank in any number of ways: threaded or cemented fittings, or with a slip-fit gasket seal. When you reinstall the new tank, I recommend using a slip-fit gasket seal. It will prove to be the easiest method.

Next, you’ll have to disconnect the vent pipe for the tank. It, too, will be connected to the top of the tank using one of several methods. In some cases, you can simply cut the ABS vent with a hacksaw just above or below the floor. Keep in mind that you also may have to remove the monitor panel sensor wires from the tank if your motorhome is so equipped.

Once the floor flange and vent have been removed, simply drop the old tank and temporarily position the new tank. You can use a can of spray paint to mark where the new holes need to be cut. If you use a hole saw, be sure to retrieve the round cutout plastic pieces and do not allow them to fall into the tank. Next, install the slip-fit gasket grommets onto the tank opening and mount the tank. Connect the vent pipe, the toilet down-pipe, and reinstall the flange and toilet. Be sure to use a new rubber flange gasket. Finish the downstream plumbing (new valves and termination assembly) and check for leaks by filling the tank up through the toilet (or sinks if you’re replacing the gray tank).

This, of course, is a very rough outline of the various steps. If you need additional help, feel free to contact me again and I’ll be happy to send you more detailed procedures. Good luck!


Motorhome Inspection

Dear RV Doctor:
I’m moving back to the United States soon and will be looking to purchase a preowned motorhome but don’t wish to get taken for a ride. We live on a fixed income, so we must watch every dollar. Before the Veteran’s Administration will approve a home loan on a house, it must meet certain standards. Are there specialists I can hire to do an assessment on the motorhome prior to purchase? We need a unit that is in top condition and isn’t a safety risk.

Jake Cobra, Chiang Rai, Thailand

Indeed, any certified professional RV service technician could perform a set of procedures called a predelivery inspection (PDI) before you consummate the sale. Look for a professional shop or dealership in your area when you settle back in the States.

A PDI checklist is used by the professionals to inspect and test all the systems and components on any motorhome prior to the sale. Even if you must pay for this service yourself, at least you’ll know the true condition of that motorhome. If you buy from an established dealer, they will perform the PDI service as part of the purchase. Even in this case, it’s not a bad idea to have a PDI performed by an independent inspector you hire who would have your best interests in mind. You also should make sure that the PDI “” from the dealer or someone you pay for the service “” is performed by an individual or service team that has technical expertise with the motorhome’s house systems, chassis, and drive train. Always retain copies of any and all PDI forms you receive.

All RVs should be constructed to the standards of NFPA 1192, and a PDI will confirm the safety and status of the major systems and components. PDI checklists can be quite comprehensive, as they should be. Any discrepancies found during the PDI can then become bargaining chips for price negotiation or could outright negate the sale between private parties, in some cases. Use it to your advantage.



Add-On Toilet Rinser

Dear RV Doctor:
Is it possible to add a spray hose rinser to a toilet in a motorhome that does not have one? Where can I buy the hose and line for it?

Larry Ryan, Tyler, Texas

Yes, it is possible to add a tee and an aftermarket spray hose attachment to just about any RV toilet. All you need is access to the internal tubing of the toilet downstream of its inlet water valve. So, depending on the brand of your toilet and how easily the integral tubing can be accessed, it should not be a major problem to add a spray hose. If you have a Thetford toilet, the company offers its own rinse hose that can be found on the Thetford Web site (www.thetford.com). Just about any aftermarket hose and spray attachment from any of the large home improvement stores, along with a tee and hose clamps, will probably work, but you can be assured the Thetford kit will come with all the parts you’ll need. If you have another brand of toilet, call the manufacturer to see whether they sell a kit that would fit your model.

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Tech & Travel Tips: February 2012
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Tech Talk: February 2012

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