Valve Extensions
Referencing the “Tire Valve Extensions” letter that appeared in the January 2012 “Tech Talk” column (page 20), I think the answer provided offered good advice, but I also want to point out that many wheels do not need them. We just bought four new rear tires for our motorhome, and the technician was able to simply move the valve stem so it is accessible without needing the extenders. I am told most aluminum wheels made in the past few years permit this, and most of us have aluminum wheels. I don’t know why our motorhome manufacturer or Freightliner Custom Chassis did not provide accessible valve extenders in the first place. Life is simpler now.
Hank Whitney, F155625
Custer, South Dakota
Hank, thank you for sharing this information.
Rubber Bubble
We have a 2007 Fleetwood Jamboree Type C motorhome. While inspecting the roof, I discovered a bubble near the air conditioner that’s approximately 1 foot by 2 feet in size, with the bubble maybe 1/2-inch above the surface. The roof appears to be structurally sound under the bubble, so I suspect a leak from the air conditioner has caused it. It looks like the gaskets may have leaked, but the leak could not have been there long, because I do check the roof a couple of times a year. Is my only option a new roof, or can it be repaired by taking out a piece, checking underneath, and redoing that portion?
Bob Wyllie, F381374
Sarasota, Florida
The bubble could be the result of restricted airflow from the air conditioner through the roof opening. Could there be an airflow shutoff valve or a diverter plate on the underside of the RV’s roof that might create backpressure if it is not in the open position? Consider this: If the inner edges of this laminated roof opening were not sealed (or boxed in) with either wood or metal, this could provide a path for air pressure to penetrate the laminations or layers of the roof and possibly raise the upper layer of the roof to make a bubble.
Once you’ve found and remedied the cause of the bubble, stop by an Ace Hardware or Sears store to purchase a Robert Larson Handyman Syringe kit, which includes three different size syringes. By poking small holes (appropriate to the sizes of the syringe tips), you can then apply the proper glue to the surface under the bubble with the syringe. (Contact your roof’s manufacturer for the correct adhesive.) Finish the job by pressing the roof material down with weights.
E85 Gasoline
I own a 2005 National RV Dolphin motorhome with a Workhorse chassis. At this time, I am looking at major maintenance expenses that I can cost out, but the unknown factor that I’d like to know more about is the impact E85 gasoline will have on my engine. I have about 33,000 miles on the motorhome, and I generally drive 6,000 miles per year. I have heard some scary stories concerning E85 gasoline; therefore, I’m thinking that this might be the right time to trade for a diesel model. What do you think the potential for engine damage is when using E85 gasoline?
Charles Tornatore, F245899
Jensen Beach, Florida
From your letter it’s difficult to discern whether you have been using E85 gasoline – a blend of 85 percent ethanol and 15 percent gasoline — in your motorhome and are worried about potential engine problems because of it, or if you are debating whether to use E85 gas.
Most engines built before 2009 were not made to use E85 gasoline, and the owner’s manual for my 2007 chassis provides warnings not to use it. (You should check your Workhorse owner’s manual, too). Although the price of E85 is typically much less per gallon than E10 gasoline, E85 has less energy (in Btus) per gallon and fuel mileage will suffer. Finally, in some older engines not designed for E85 gasoline, the added ethanol can cause corrosion problems in fuel lines.
The bottom line is that E85 gas may be cheaper to buy, but it could be more expensive in the long run.
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