Extended Storage
In the December 2011 issue of Family Motor Coaching, the answer to Don Loudermilk’s “Storage Question” letter (page 20) states that you should place pieces of plywood under the tires of the motorhome when storing it. I have a Prevost XLII with air support that requires the motorhome to be stored on the rubber. I have been motorhoming for more than 15 years and have never heard that particular advice. Could you tell me the reasoning behind it? I assume you are referring to outside storage and not in a building on concrete, which is my condition.
Conway Narby, F251286
Wenatchee, Washington
We contacted Robert Hitt, a service training manager with Prevost, and he responded with the following information:
“We at Prevost recommend one thing and one thing only when it comes to tires.
Keep Michelins on it and follow Michelin’s recommendations,” he wrote. “This [the information below] is from page 7 of the “Michelin RV Tires” guide. They recommend cardboard, plastic, or plywood.”
LONG-TERM STORAGE OF RV TIRES
Unless the RV owner is a full-time RVer, the vehicle probably spends some time in long-term storage. But what the RV owner probably didn’t know is that rubber tires age when not being used. So, if the owner must store the RV, a cool, dry, sealed garage is the best bet. Also, some storage surfaces can cause tires to age faster. That’s why Michelin recommends placing a barrier (cardboard, plastic or plywood) between the tire and the storage surface.
Here are some other steps the RV owner can take to help reduce the aging effects from long-term storage:
1) Thoroughly clean tires with soap and water before placing into storage.
2) Cover tires to block direct sunlight and ultraviolet rays.
3) Store out of a high ozone area.
Note: When a vehicle is stored, tires should be inflated to the inflation pressure indicated on the sidewall. Before removing the vehicle from long-term storage, thoroughly inspect each tire — this includes sidewalls, tread area, and pressure. If the tires have lost pressure, be sure to inflate them to the correct pressure before driving.
At all the tire seminars I’ve attended at FMCA international conventions, the manufacturers’ reps tell us that the tires should be separated from the ground surface. Particle or chipboards would work also. Even heavy-duty cardboard will work, depending upon whether moisture can permeate the cardboard.
Electrifying News
I have a 2004 36-foot Holiday Rambler on a Workhorse chassis with a gasoline engine. I am having a problem with the house 12-volt electrical system not coming on with the battery on-off switch by the entry door. The interior 12-volt lights do not work, the heating and air-conditioning select panel is inoperable, and the furnace fan doesn’t work. All operate off 12-volt-DC electric. There is a house battery disconnect switch in the battery compartment that I verified is in the on position. I have cycled it a couple of times. The four 12-volt batteries all have sufficient water and were installed new in March 2011, and the inverter is working properly. I cannot locate any supply fuses to check. Do you have advice for troubleshooting this problem?
Also, this is most likely a separate problem, but the backup camera is not working. The backup monitor comes on but remains bright with no picture or sound. I have found a couple of fuses in the house panel that checked out okay, but I changed them just in case. I checked the monitor for loose wires but found none. I appreciate any advice you can give for troubleshooting these two problems.
James D. Christian, F358574
Jonesboro, Georgia
Here are a few suggestions. First, check the entire circuit. Clean and tighten all the connections, then use a test light to see where the 12-volt current has been interrupted (if the first step doesn’t cure the problem). Next, bypass the on-off switch at the door to verify that it is not defective. Then bypass the disconnect switch to determine whether it is the problem. One of these has to be causing your power interruption.
Your battery disconnect could be a simple manual switch or involve a solenoid. If you have a solenoid-type disconnect, the solenoid and the power source will need to be tested. You also should test your batteries. Start at your battery and test along the circuit to determine whether there are any major variations in the voltage.
Any number of things could be wrong with the backup monitor system. You need to have it inspected at an authorized dealer or shop.
Bad Gauges
I have a 2001 Winnebago Journey that does not reflect accurate information on two gauges on my dash cluster. My ammeter needle shows a state of discharge, so I had the alternator tested and was informed that the alternator is charging. Also, the air brake warning light indicator and buzzer continue to issue alerts even though the pressure gauges for the front and back read between 120 and 130 pounds of pressure. This also was checked out by a service technician. When I drive the motorhome, sometimes after 20 or 30 minutes the light will go off and the audible alert will stop buzzing. The alternator moves a little to the charge side, yet it’s still on the discharge side. Then, when I start the motorhome again, the problem reappears. I was informed that I need to take the unit to Freightliner service to have a diagnostic test. Do you have a suggestion or opinion?
G. E. Carrier, F399824
League City, Texas
It sounds as though you have a bad ground on those two gauges. However, I suggest you first contact Winnebago Industries Technical Service at (800) 537-1885. For inquiries related to your current vehicle, or service or dealer inquiries, have the following information ready when making your call: the complete 12-digit serial number of your motorhome; the date of purchase; and the name of the selling dealer. After talking with the Winnebago Industries technicians, you also may wish to call the Freightliner Custom Chassis Customer Support Center at (800) 385-4357.
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