Debilitating Deadbolt
Dear RV Doctor:
I own a 1998 Thor Residency, and I need to replace the deadbolt. What I thought would be an easy job has turned out to be a nightmare. I can’t seem to find the correct deadbolt. I’ve been to different hardware stores and RV dealers looking for it but have had no luck. Dealers I’ve spoken with don’t seem to know what I’m talking about. I hope you can help me find one.
Ernie Sales
One approach is to remove the entry-door lock assembly and look for manufacturing marks or any indication of the name of the company that made the assembly. Once you determine whose lock Thor used back in 1998, you may be able to contact the lock manufacturer directly to see whether replacement components are available. It also may fall to the maker of the complete door assembly, unless Thor bought the door and locking mechanism separately. I know some Thor products incorporated the popular TriMark entry-door lock assembly, in which case replacements are readily available.
If you haven’t already done so, you might want to contact Thor directly and ask whether their records include the name of the supplier for the lock. Thor’s customer service can be reached at (877) 855-2867.
You also might want to peruse this discussion on the FMCA forums: http://community.fmca.com/topic/4414-locked-out-broken-lock/?hl=%2Btrimark+%2Bdoor+%2Block. Don’t overlook the value of the FMCA forums. Many members have found solutions to common problems and posted useful information to benefit everyone.
Wallpaper Woes
Dear RV Doctor:
My husband and I have a Jayco Class C motorhome that has a vinyl-wallpapered tub-shower combo. The caulk has failed where the back and side tub-shower walls meet, and we can’t figure out what to use to remove the old caulk without tearing up the wallpaper. We tried De-Solv-It to soften it, but it’s eating the wallpaper. A local tech I called suggested Acrysol, but I wonder if that will do the same thing. I’ve searched all over and made some calls, but I’m not finding much help. This should be a DIY project, but I’m stumped! We need our shower working for upcoming trips.
Devon McCaroll
That’s a tough one. One thing you could do is simply reseal over the old caulking, then install a piece of inside corner molding to cover the sealant. It’s something we used to do years ago in the mobile home industry. The molding section would probably have to be metallic in order to survive in the shower area, but I’m sure if you look in home improvement stores or at a dedicated plumbing store, you will be able to find a piece that will suffice. One initial thought I had was to carefully cut through the old sealant with a razor knife, peel the caulk out of the corner, and simply reseal with a small bead of sealant. But I think this method might still tear the paper and would certainly test the patience of anyone. I think I’d go with new inside corner molding.
Rueful Rubber Roofing
Dear RVDoctor:
My motorhome’s rubber roof is approximately 15 years old and showing some rather large black areas. It has not had very good care. Can I use a white elastomeric roof coating on the rubber roof? Specifically, Henry #280DC or #687.
Gordon Lockwood
Well, you certainly got your money’s worth out of that original roofing membrane. I’ve never tested the Henry products that you mention, especially as they relate to EPDM rubber membrane. However, I will be investigating a new product called RV Roof Armor (www.rv-armor.com) that states it will be the last RV roof you’ll ever purchase. It looks promising, so I’d suggest you visit the company’s Web site and see whether this solution appeals to you. Normally, I do not recommend a product until I’ve had a chance to vet it carefully over time, but my initial glance at the product prompts me at least to mention it to you now.
As for “coatings” in general, rarely will they provide the necessary sealing attributes to ward off roof leaks and protect all of the openings where equipment is attached to the motorhome roof. Back in my mobile home days, we used a “coating” for reflective purposes only. The extremes of seasonal temperatures endured by motorhome roofs, not to mention the variances in ozone and UV degradation, mandate a more assertive approach to weatherproofing than simple coatings can provide. I’m hoping RV Roof Armor proves its mettle in that regard. I have had success with Liquid EPDM/Liquid Roof (www.liquid-roof.com) in the past, so I’m eager to see how well it compares to RV Roof Armor. Perhaps an A/B test is in my future. Stay tuned.
Winnebago Wondering
Dear RV Doctor:
I am thinking about purchasing a 1968 Winnebago. Can you tell me what hazards or concerns I should have, if any?
Lynne Dablow
Avon, Minnesota
I’ve addressed this topic before on the RVdoctor.com Web site and here in the “House Calls” column. Check out these previous articles that you might find helpful: www.rvdoctor.com/2009/10/buying-used.html; www.rvdoctor.com/2011/10/pre-sale-rv-inspections-are-crucial.html; www.rvdoctor.com/2009/10/limited-longevity.html.
You’ll notice all three of the articles revolve around having a predelivery inspection (PDI) performed. That, in my opinion, is the only true way to determine the “health” of a motorhome. Any RV dealer or service center should be able to perform a PDI before you purchase a preowned motorhome. If the current owner balks at this idea, to me that’s a big red flag and a deal-breaker. I would certainly look carefully for evidence of mold and water leaks in a coach of that vintage.