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Family RVing Magazine

Tech Talk: June 2016

June 1, 2016
 
Brake Question
 
I tried to drive my Allegro Breeze after a month or so in storage and found that the brakes would not release. They apparently were stuck to the drums. After several attempts, they finally let go. However, I was nervous, because my storage facility is enclosed on three sides, and I worried that my attempts to break the brakes loose would land me in the end wall. I realize that this effort alone could damage the drivetrain, so I did not put much stress on it. Anyway, what should I do to keep the brakes from seizing up again? If it does happen, what is the best approach to break them free? Currently, when storing my motorhome, I block the tires and do not set the brakes. Of course, this is not always possible, such as when parked on a site with some slope.
 
Tayler H. Bingham, F428454
Raleigh, North Carolina 
 
If you wish to use the brakes, have them rebuilt or replaced. It would seem they’ve become sticky because of the humidity in the southeastern United States.


 
Faulty RV Park Power
 
I encountered an unusual AC power problem on a recent road trip to Vandenberg Air Force Base in California. We arrived at our campground after dark in a heavy rainstorm. The park power was 50-amp only with a breaker, but no other service receptacles. We have an onboard power management system by Progressive Industries that has worked flawlessly for 14 years. But when I plugged in my power cord, the power status display flickered and then went dark. 
 
I unplugged the power cord and proceeded to check the power source. The multimeter test showed proper voltages. With a 50-to-20-amp adapter, I plugged in a three-pronged test light to check for reverse polarity and grounding errors. Everything checked out okay. At this point I convinced myself that my power management system failed somehow.
 
We dry camped that night. The next day I called Progressive Industries to see if they could suggest a field repair or work-around. Turned out they no longer support my model, and they suggested I order an upgraded unit and swap it out, which I did, requesting overnight shipping.
 
We still had four more days at this campground, so I decided to try a work-around of my power monitor/transfer switch. I plugged in the AC/DC converter to keep the batteries charged while waiting for the new unit. Using an extension cord, I plugged the converter in to the 50/20 adapter, and it did not work. After a brief moment of panic, thinking I screwed up my motorhome wiring, I plugged a 120-volt heat gun in to the extension cord. It did not work either. I unplugged the adapter and went to another park pedestal and the heat gun worked. 
 
Bottom line: The problem was low current, just enough to light the test light. This is analogous to a low battery in a car — the dash lights work, but when you hit the starter, they go out. We changed to a different RV site and everything powered up normally. Moral to the story: Don’t jump to conclusions. If power was working at your last stop, chances are something did not fail driving down the road. By the way, I was able to return the new power unit with a full refund, minus shipping.
 
Jerry Chrislock, F301022
Bethel Island, California
 
Thank you for sharing the valuable lesson that you learned.
 
motorhome brakesmotorhome tech talkcampground power problem
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Readers’ Forum: June 2016

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