DIY Tank Replacement
Dear RV Doctor:
I bought an old motorhome a couple of years ago. It certainly was not perfect, but for an old one, it was in good condition. Last year I noticed the black-water holding tank developed a leak right at the output of the tank. I took it to the local RV repair shop, and the quote was about half of the price of the whole motorhome. I don’t mind getting dirty, so I decided to do the job myself.
The tank came out fairly easily, and I found the exact tank online for an excellent price. I purchased two rubber grommets for the tank, a 3-inch for the toilet connection and a 1 1/2-inch for the drain. I understand that I need to cut a hole for both grommets and insert them into the holes. Do they require sealant, or will the grommet seal be enough?
The toilet flange I removed was a screw-in type, but the new grommet is not threaded. I assume the male flange just fits into the grommet but, again, is there a need for additional sealant?
When connecting the tank output to the black ABS pipe, I believe a 3-inch hose clamp is the best way to secure the pipe. The tank is polypropylene. Should I use a rubber coupling to cover the output and the ABS pipe?
Michael Smith
Via email
Rubber grommets are fine to use on the new tank. They require no sealant, but I do find it easier to insert the ABS pipe into the grommet by using a brush-on sealant such as RectorSeal T Plus 2 around the pipe before inserting it. That way, the grommet won’t be prone to slipping out of the hole and down into the tank. I can’t tell you how many times that happened to me!
The hole you cut must be precise, so take careful measurements; too large and the grommet will be pushed into the tank, too small and you won’t be able to insert the ABS drain piping.
As for the toilet flange, even though you can physically insert a threaded fitting into the grommet, it’s best that it be a straight section of piping only. It’s just a tighter fit and provides no way for moisture to “follow the threads” and possibly seep out.
The inside diameter of the tank outlet should already be sized to accept the outside dimension of a section of ABS piping. The new tank is likely made of polyethylene instead of polypropylene. Polyethylene is soft enough that sealant around the pipe and a hose clamp around the outlet of the tank should suffice. There’s no need for a rubber coupler over the outlet of the tank, in most cases.
Clunking Noise
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a 2006 Forest River Georgetown motorhome on a 2004 Ford chassis. Occasionally when going over bumps, I hear a clunking sound. It sounds like it’s coming from the right front. Is this something I have to worry about? What should I look for, and do you think I can correct it myself? I’ve been told F-53 chassis don’t have ball joints; is this true? I have a trip coming up soon and I just want to make sure my family and I are safe, as well as others on the road. The motorhome seems to ride and handle great.
Joe Santiago
Via Email
Though I rarely address chassis-related issues (others are more knowledgeable), I was concerned about your clunking noise, so I sent it to a chassis guru, Brett Wolfe, chairman of the FMCA Technical Advisory Committee. He confirmed your F-53 does not have ball joints or an independent suspension. Rather, it uses a king pin design with a solid front axle. His suggestion, and I concur, is to first check the bushings in the sway bar. A coach of that vintage just might have worn, cracked, or loose bushings. Of course, it all depends on how it was treated over the past 12 or so years.
Only you can decide whether it’s something you’d want to tackle yourself. Personally, I’d be concerned about any clunking noise, as that would indicate some part keeps bumping into some other component, and that can’t be a good thing over time. Without knowing the exact cause, the level of concern cannot be determined. But start with those bushings. If it’s another component, a good chassis tech could perform tests and take some measurements to pinpoint the exact cause.
Power Problem
Dear RV Doctor:
My wife and I recently purchased a 1999 Fleetwood Southwind motorhome. We got it for a great price, but there is one nagging issue that I am having trouble with. The generator starts and runs very well, but it doesn’t power any 120-volt equipment in the coach except for the rear air conditioner. I have researched this problem on the internet and have not found an explanation. If it were an issue with the transfer switch, then why would the rear air conditioner work? I have found the circuit breakers on the side of the generator, and they are both in the “on” position. Do you have any ideas?
Ben Erickson
Via e-mail
It still might be a transfer switch issue. If your Southwind is a 30-amp coach, it’s possible the rear air conditioner is wired directly to the generator only. I do remember Fleetwood wiring some rear A/C units directly to the generator output. I tend to think that might be the case, since you say there are two breakers on the generator itself. I am assuming they are both in good shape. So, I’m thinking the generator is producing electricity normally enough, powering the rear A/C as it should, and the other leg is going to the transfer switch, where, for some reason, the voltage stops.
Everything other than the direct-wired rear A/C unit — basically, the rest of the coach — is fed from the transfer switch and then onto the panelboard distribution box. This could be why nothing else works in the motorhome. The only way to tell for sure is to remove the cover from the transfer switch and measure for voltage coming from the generator. You didn’t state whether you have voltage when connected to shore power. If everything functions as it should when plugged into shore power, then I would definitely suspect the transfer switch. It just might be stuck to the shore power side of the relay.
Even if you have no electricity on shore power, the problem could still be the transfer switch. It might be stuck midway between the generator and shoreline sources. This is assuming all the other circuit breakers are functional and not worn or otherwise faulty. But to truly diagnose your situation, voltage measurements are required. If you see a set of what technicians call “either/or” switches somewhere inside the coach, that’s another clue that would confirm my suspicions.