Towing A Silverado
In the owners manual for my 2015 Chevrolet Silverado 1500, the flat towing instructions say to remove the negative battery cable. How do I get power to the Even Brake to stop the truck?
Robert J. Barry, F397380
Shiloh, Georgia
The battery must be disconnected because several battery-draining accessories are turned on by the key position that releases the steering wheel lock. Therefore, the factory wants the battery to be disconnected so that it doesn’t go flat. Any of the following ways can provide power to the supplemental brake system.
*If you have a “smart” key, have a dumb key made for use while flat towing. The dumb key will not have the chip that allows all the accessories to operate while driving. In certain vehicles, a dumb key will allow the engine to idle only if all accessories are off and the transmission is in park. On some vehicles, the computer also will allow the doors to be locked while the dumb key is in the ignition and the engine is running; this lets you idle the engine to recharge the battery while taking a break from driving to get food or a cup of coffee.
*Keep the towable vehicle’s battery connected and run a “hot” line from the motorhome’s battery to the towable vehicle’s battery through the towing lights’ connector. Just make sure that both hot lines have inline 20-amp fuses very near the batteries’ positive posts to avoid an electrical fire.
*If you don’t wish to run a hot wire between the two vehicles’ batteries, several manufacturers offer battery monitoring devices. Such a device will “watch” your towable vehicle’s battery until it senses that there is just enough juice left to start the truck, and then the device disconnects the battery to save the charge. These are available at any large auto parts store.
Weighing Options
I have a suggestion for wheel-by-wheel weighing of a motorhome. In Washington state and Oregon, the truck scales at state-operated weigh stations are accessible 24 hours a day for public use, even when the highway signs indicate the station is closed to commercial traffic. Usually there is not enough room to access the driver’s-side wheels, but by weighing the front axle, the rear axle, and then the passenger wheels individually, a little simple math will give all individual wheel loads.
Gary Oliver, F335437
Washougal, Washington
Thanks for sharing this information, Gary. To ensure accurate weight readings, the RV should be level; therefore, if the area adjacent to the scale is sloped (which is common at truck scales), side-to-side readings will not be accurate.
Sumo Shocks/Springs
I have a 35-foot 2003 Itasca Suncruiser motorhome built on a Workhorse chassis with a Vortec motor. Information on SumoSprings, including reviews from people who have actually installed them, would be helpful. An article I read said that they are supposed to improve the ride on gas-driven motorhomes. The article said the cost is about $2,000, so I want to know if they are worth it.
Bennie Dooley, F461293
Kennewick, Washington
A search on the FMCA Forums turned up some discussions about SumoSprings. Here is a link to those posts: https://community.fmca.com/search/?type=all&q=Sumo. One post mentions that the product benefits are explained in a video by Henderson’s Lineup, Brake & RV in Grants Pass, Oregon. Henderson’s is a longtime FMCA commercial member and a great source of information about RV suspension issues. Visit www.hendersonslineup.com or call (541) 326-4033.
In addition, Ultra RV Products is an FMCA commercial member in Centralia, Washington. This company does chassis upgrades and suspension work, and offers Workhorse technical assistance. Visit www.ultrarvproducts.com or call (800) 417-4559.
Also, Evergreen RV Supply in Seattle, Washington, is an authorized service center for a number of companies. Visit www.evergreenrvsupply.com or call (206) 542-1181.
For other options, consult the RV Marketplace, published in the January issue of FMC and online at FMCA.com.