With its scenic beauty, quaint towns, fascinating history, and varied attractions, the central part of the Lone Star State has all the makings of a fun-filled RV getaway. Here’s a glimpse at just some of what the region has to offer.
By George Moore, F460576
February 2022
For many folks, Texas evokes thoughts of flat cotton fields, desert, the humid eastern piney woods, the Gulf Coast, big cities such as Dallas and Houston, or a state so large it seems to take forever to drive across. Yes, Texas is all of these and more. Texas also is too vast and varied to cover in a single article. Thus, I will practice a principle my English teachers taught me and limit my subject.
The Alpine Haus restaurant in New Braunfels serves scratch-made German fare.
My focus will be the Texas Hill Country, which at approximately 31,000 square miles is the fourth-largest region in Texas. I will hit a few highlights of what this large, diverse region has to offer for travelers of all ages as we journey from east to west.
The Hill Country lies in southwestern central Texas. Although it has no technical geographic boundaries, it generally is defined as the area west of Austin and north of San Antonio —bordered by Interstate 35 on the east, U.S. 83 on the west, U.S. 90 on the south, and Texas State Highway 29 on the north. It is a land of steep, rolling hills; woods; streams and rivers; and small towns. Cities include San Marcos, Boerne, New Braunfels, Canyon Lake, Fredericksburg, Kerrville, and Johnson City.
An interior view of the Alpine Haus restaurant.
With a strong German heritage dating to the 1800s, several Hill Country towns are known for their German restaurants and bakeries. Other attractions include wineries, state parks, barbecue restaurants, festivals and fairs, and wildflowers. Canyon, Buchanan, and Marble Falls are three major lakes in the area, and among the primary rivers are Medina, Guadalupe, Colorado, Pedernales, and Llano. RV parks and resorts are abundant throughout the Hill Country and along I-35 and I-10. Motorcyclists enjoy riding the hilly, curvy, and wooded byways and highways. Visitors may see deer and other wildlife, as well as Texas Longhorns grazing in fields.
Cypress trees cling to the bank along the Guadalupe River.
Let’s start our trip across the Hill Country in New Braunfels, located on I-35 a short distance northeast of San Antonio. New Braunfels and the Canyon Lake area just a few miles to the north are home to various RV parks. Many RVers, especially young families, make New Braunfels a destination.
Besides being close enough for day trips to San Antonio, New Braunfels and the surrounding area offer attractions for visitors of all ages. One hot spot for cooling off is the Schlitterbahn Water Park, which boasts 51 attractions, including rivers, rides, chutes, and slides that draw tens of thousands of visitors every year.
A misty morning on the Medina River in Bandera.
Those looking for a natural water attraction might want to take a dip in the spring-fed Comal River in New Braunfels. At only 2.5 miles long, it is one of the shortest navigable waterways in the United States. Tubing in the river is a fun way to cool off on a hot day. Another fun family destination is the Animal World and Snake Farm Zoo.
New Braunfels isn’t just for kids. Settled by Germans in the mid-1800s, the Gruene Historic District, within the city limits, was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1975. The renovated historic buildings now serve as bed-and-breakfast inns, restaurants, art galleries, antique and gift shops, and a general store. You can enjoy live entertainment at Gruene Hall, Texas’ oldest continually operating dance hall. Gruene also is a popular launching place for kayaking and tubing on the Guadalupe River.
President Lyndon B. Johnson’s home, nicknamed the Texas White House.
One busy tourist destination a few miles up I-35, at exit 200 in San Marcos, is the location of the Premium and Tanger outlet malls. With more than 200 stores combined at the malls, shoppers will find plenty to occupy their time. This happens to be my wife Sherrian’s favorite place for outlet mall shopping.
During our four years stationed in Wiesbaden, Germany, Sherrian and I developed a taste for German food. Our favorite German restaurant, the Alpine Haus, is right here in New Braunfels at 251 S. Seguin Ave. It sits back off the road in a historic house built in the mid-1800s. The period décor is attractive, the food is deliciously cooked Bavarian style, and the service is excellent. The Alpine Haus is on our list of must-visit restaurants.
A block down Seguin Avenue from the Alpine Haus is the oldest continually operating bakery in Texas. Naegelin’s Bakery has been serving authentic German pastries and strudel since 1868.
Naegelin’s Bakery in New Braunfels has served customers since 1868.
Just a few miles north of New Braunfels is Canyon Lake and the Guadalupe River. Several RV parks in this area will appeal to those who desire a resting place away from the city and the highway. This also is a good area for those who enjoy nature. Boating and fishing are popular on Canyon Lake, and the Guadalupe River attracts kayakers and tubers. Area outfitters rent tubes and provide transportation for those who glide down the gentle Guadalupe. A well-maintained nature trail awaits exploration below the Canyon Lake Dam.
Gruene Hall in New Braunfels is the state’s oldest continually operating dance hall.
A short and scenic drive north of Canyon Lake leads to Johnson City, which is where you will find the boyhood home of Lyndon B. Johnson, the 36th president of the United States, as well as the Johnson Settlement farm and the Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park headquarters and visitors center. All are within easy walking distance and have free admission.
Just 14 miles west of Johnson City on U.S. 290 is the LBJ State Park and Historic Site. Admission is also free there. After registering at the state park visitors center, you begin your driving tour across the Pedernales River and enter the Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park. It is there that you will see the one-room school President Johnson attended, as well as his reconstructed birthplace, family cemetery, his grandparents’ farmhouse, a show barn, the VC-140 presidential aircraft, and the Texas White House. His ranch home became known as the Texas White House because he spent a great deal of time there during his presidency, hosting national and foreign leaders, holding meetings and conferences, and entertaining guests at his famous Texas barbecues. Note that at press time, the Texas White House was closed because of structural issues.
The National Museum of the Pacific War in Fredericksburg.
Continuing west on U.S. 290, you arrive at the German-settled town of Fredericksburg, which today has a population of 11,245 and is a major tourist destination. With approximately 50 wineries and tasting rooms in Gillespie County, this is one of the most-visited wine regions in the United States. But wineries aren’t the only attraction. Tourists visit Fredericksburg to browse in the many art galleries, leather shops, boutiques, brew pubs, and other venues in its historic downtown. Lunch and dinner breaks find visitors in one of several German restaurants on the main street.
The Street Dreams vintage-vehicle dealership in Fredericksburg.
A visit to Fredericksburg isn’t complete without a stop at the National Museum of the Pacific War. As the hometown of World War II Admiral Chester Nimitz, Fredericksburg was a natural site for this major museum, which is affiliated with the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C. Its thousands of exhibits range from personal items and small artifacts to a torpedo bomber, a Japanese midget submarine from the Pearl Harbor attack, a WWII PT boat, and an actual Fat Man atomic bomb casing. The museum holds interest for visitors of all ages. Plan to spend several hours to see it all. The facility is open Wednesday through Sunday. Admission prices vary, ranging up to $20 for adults.
The Johnson Settlement farm in Johnson City.
A short drive west on Texas Highway 16 finds some visitors dreaming of their youth and days gone by. Street Dreams is an auto dealership that specializes in classic and collector cars and trucks, as well as related memorabilia. The two showrooms are crowded with 30 to 35 vehicles, all ready to drive away. This mini museum is worth a visit. Yes, walking among and looking at these cars does cause one to dream.
Depending on rainfall and temperatures, mid-April finds the area around Fredericksburg alive with bluebonnets, Indian paintbrush, and other wildflowers. The Willow City Loop is a popular 13-mile drive along a private ranch road to view fields of wildflowers. Another well-known spot for tourists to view acres of flowers is Wildseed Farms, just a few miles out of town.
LBJ State Park and Historic Site in Johnson City includes Lyndon B. Johnson’s boyhood home.
Continuing southwest on Texas Highway 16 leads to Kerrville, located along I-10. Kerrville is home to the historic Schreiner Mansion, Museum of Western Art, Riverside Nature Center, a several-mile nature trail along the Guadalupe River, and the 24.5-acre Coming King Sculpture Prayer Garden.
Nearby Bandera is known as the “Cowboy Capital of the World.” Here, you can attend rodeos, visit the Frontier Times Museum, hike in the 5,400-acre Hill Country State Natural Area or at nearby Lost Maples State Natural Area, and listen to country music in the 11th Street Cowboy Bar. Kayaking on the Medina River and horseback riding are other favorite activities.
In addition to all I have mentioned in our drive across the Hill Country, more than a dozen state parks and natural areas offer miles of hiking trails, bird-watching (including the rare yellow-cheeked warbler) locations, kayaking spots, and the opportunity to observe thousands of bats emerge from an old tunnel.
The historic Schreiner Mansion in Kerrville was built in 1879.
Being rural and dotted with small towns, this area also boasts dozens of fairs, festivals, and farmers markets throughout the year. For instance, in Fredericksburg, I came across the Texas Fandango, an April event for vintage motorcycle enthusiasts. Two informative websites for planning a visit include Texas State Parks (www.tpwd.texas.gov) and a calendar of Hill Country festivals (www.hillcountryportal.com/hillcountryfestivals.html).
Although I have highlighted just a little of what the Texas Hill Country has to offer, I hope I have sparked your interest in visiting this beautiful part of Texas, which can satisfy diverse interests and promises fun for all ages.