Which Watts?
Dear RV Doctor:
My wife and I are ordering and buying a new type A motorhome “” a 33-foot, gasoline-powered coach with a 7,000-watt generator and 50-amp shore power service. The unit comes with a 300-watt inverter as standard equipment. Do we need to or would it be wise to purchase the optional 2,000-watt inverter as factory installed by the manufacturer in place of the 300-watt inverter? We probably won’t do much dry camping/boondocking at first. Please give us some sound advice; this is our first motorhome. We plan to travel America and not stay in any area more than a week.
Marion King
Via e-mail
RV Doctor: Marion, I’ve always said you can never have too much power when it comes to AC or DC in any RV. Even though you do not plan on boondocking often, I would still get the larger inverter just in case. However, if cost is a main concern, then I may opt out and stay with the 300-watt inverter. You could always upgrade later, albeit at a higher labor cost. But realize that 300 watts will not power much. I carry a 400-watt inverter in my vehicle as an emergency backup just for my laptop and a few peripherals. Plus, if you sell or trade at a later date, the 2,000-watt unit adds value to the coach. Also keep in mind that most campgrounds restrict the use of generators after certain hours. If you become accustomed to using 120-volt AC appliances late in the evening or at night, you’re stuck if you have the smaller inverter. And the newer models, such as the Xantrex RS2000 pictured here, come equipped with some nice features such as the ability to network with other systems in the RV.
Slide Seals
Dear RV Doctor:
We are buying a new 39-foot motorhome with two slideouts. Can you give some tips on what I should keep in mind for maintenance of these slideouts?
Robert Runyon
Auburn Hills, Michigan
RV Doctor: Thankfully, Robert, there is not an extensive list of maintenance tasks required on most slide units. Obviously, keep your eye on the top and side room seals, making sure they are engaged when the room is extended and retracted. A few aftermarket products are available now for keeping the seals cleaned and maintained, such as Protect All’s Slide-Out Rubber Seal Treatment. Features such as built-in UV protection and water-repellent and anti-static characteristics make it an excellent source for proactive care of all slide seals. Keep the slide mechanisms clean and dry, regardless of the type employed on your coach. Never use a moist lubricant such as WD-40 on slide mechanisms; always use a dry lubricant to avoid attracting dust and dirt. Use the dry lube on all the exposed metal components. Always inspect the roof of the slideout prior to retracting the room after any extended stay. You’ll want to avoid dragging bird droppings, dirt, leaves, or other debris into the RV on the roof section. If yours are hydraulic slides, be sure to monitor the fluid level and to periodically inspect all the hoses and fittings. Be sure each room “tracks” properly and that both sides extend and retract at the same pace. If either room is equipped with LP-gas, electrical, or plumbing umbilicals, ensure their integrity from time to time. And, as you’ll get used to me saying, keep the battery charged!
Gen Set Exhaust
Dear RV Doctor:
I could really use your help. I recently purchased a used, gasoline-powered 1994 motorhome. When I got it home I found that the Onan generator did not have an exhaust on it any longer. I have been unable to find where to extend the exhaust. Neither the manufacturer nor Onan seemed to be able to help me. I don’t know whether the exhaust should be run to the side of the motorhome or directly down underneath the coach. I have not seen another coach like it that I can inspect to find out how the exhaust should be extended.
Cliff McWhorter
North Zulch, Texas
RV Doctor: Cliff, I am assuming the exhaust manifold and muffler are still intact and that you are simply missing the tailpipe extension, correct? Typically, the exhaust pipe is routed to the closest side or to the rear of the coach, whichever is the shorter run. It should not terminate directly underneath the coach. According to ANSI standards, it must extend beyond the sidewall by at least 1 inch and not terminate directly below any window that has the capacity to open. Also, it must not terminate within 6 inches of any item that opens into the interior of the RV, such as a storage compartment or an entry door. In addition, you’ll want to minimize the amount of turns the exhaust pipe makes. More elbows or turns in the piping increases the back-pressure on the exhaust system. Be sure to support the exhaust pipe every 2 or 3 feet using appropriate tailpipe hangers of the correct diameter.
Cool AC
Dear RV Doctor:
Our rooftop RV air conditioner takes a long time to blow cool air. The air is not cold, only cool. Can RV air-conditioning units be recharged like on a car, or do they have to be replaced?
Edgar McPherson
Marathon, Florida
RV Doctor: Edgar, all RV air-conditioning systems can indeed be recharged, but usually as a last resort. And not all RV service centers perform this service. Refrigerants must be contained and recycled. Federal and state guidelines are in place for the proper collection, storage, and resolution of the recovered refrigerants, so check in your area to be sure your service shop can indeed perform an evacuation, dehydration, and re-charge of your unit. But first be sure all else is in working condition. The fact that your unit blows some cool air may indicate a dirty filter or soiled and blocked fins on the condenser or evaporator. Have the unit correctly diagnosed prior to having it evacuated and recharged. A simple measurement of the amperage draw on the compressor and a temperature-differential measurement of the air going into and out of the evaporator will quickly determine whether the sealed system needs to be recharged.