Treatment Time
I have a 1996 Winnebago motorhome with a Cummins diesel engine. In the fall I filled the fuel tank and added diesel fuel treatment before storing it for winter. The next year we didn’t get a chance to use the motorhome except to drive it maybe 50 miles or so. Will the fuel be okay this year if I top it off again and add some more fuel treatment?
John Kostry, Mishawaka, Indiana
If by “fuel treatment” you’re speaking about a product such as Sta-Bil to extend the fuel’s active life, and if you followed the manufacturer’s instructions on the mix ratio, then, yes, you should be okay.
One way to check to see whether the fuel is in good shape is to start the motorhome and drive it a short distance or idle it at high RPMs for 30 minutes or so. Then look in the clear bowl fuel filter to verify that the fuel has a golden color with no sign of water, algae, or precipitate, and check to see whether there is a funny smell at the fuel filler. If fuel in the bowl is not clear, drain a small sample from the filter and have it tested. If it’s found that there is a problem with the fuel, contact a fuel polishing company that can come out and pump the fuel out tank and filter it until it’s clean.
Digital TV Info
My wife and I will be taking our first motorhome trip since the conversion to digital TV. We have a 2001 Itasca Sunflyer with two analog TVs. Of course, the TVs are not able to receive over-the-air broadcasts any longer since the digital transmission transition was completed on June 12, 2009. I finally located (and printed out) the “Digital TV In A Box” article that appeared in the August 2008 issue of FMC magazine.
I do have a question. Where can I obtain the two digital TV conversion boxes that I need? Are they still available from electronics supply stores like RadioShack? Are there still $40 government coupons available?
Richard Reissig, F136277, Teaneck, New Jersey
Unfortunately, the last day to apply for the government’s TV Converter Box Coupon Program was July 31, 2009, so the opportunity to receive the $40 coupon has ended. The converter boxes themselves are available at numerous mass merchandise and electronics stores, and you shouldn’t have a difficult time finding them. To find a retailer near you that sells them, visit www.dtv2009.gov and click on the “Buy A Converter Box Link.” On the page that comes up, scroll to the bottom and type in your address and a search engine will provide a list of retailers that carry the converter box.
The answer to Shirley Sander’s question was perhaps not quite as definitive as it might have been (“More Digital TV Questions,” August 2009, page 20). Digital over-the-air (OTA) TV transmission is almost entirely UHF and is not nearly as robust as the previous analog VHF transmission.
Regular TV antennas may have a range of up to 40 to 50 miles. Winegard batwing antennas normally are amplified and will receive full-powered transmissions up to 45 miles. I have not used the Wingman (as attached to a Batwing antenna), but I expect that it could increase the range up to 60 miles as well as provide more stability and less pixelization.
So, the answer to Shirley’s question is, without a long-range antenna intended for digital TV that is equipped with a proper preamplifier, there is little or no chance of getting reception at 70 miles and beyond from the transmitter. Most long-range antennas are 8 to 14 feet long and too bulky for transporting in an RV.
Duwayne Kloos, F85227, Golden Valley, Minnesota
As was pointed out in the “More Digital TV Questions” letter that appeared in the August issue of FMC, there are many factors and variables involved when trying to get digital TV reception. In my experience, DTV reception at 70 to 90 miles from the broadcasting source is very unlikely. I guess it would be possible if the transmitter were up very high on a mountaintop with an unobstructed line of sight to the antenna. But even then, a batwing RV antenna wouldn’t be strong enough to get reception. Perhaps a very large, multi-element Yagi directional antenna could receive the signal, but not a batwing antenna.
As I write this, we are in Denton, Texas, which is between Dallas and Fort Worth, a good 40 miles from the TV transmitters in the Dallas-Fort Worth metro area. We were having quite a bit of drop-out on our DTV using the standard Winegard batwing antenna. So, I added the Wingman from Winegard, and it did the trick. It boosted the signal enough to almost eliminate the drop-out. The terrain here is pretty flat with lots of trees in the path.
During the winter when we stay in Casa Grande, Arizona, we get our TV from Phoenix. The transmitters are all on South Mountain, which is southwest of Phoenix, up several hundred feet in elevation, and 34 miles (line of sight) to Casa Grande. We get good DTV there using only the regular batwing.
Rudy Morris, F272172, Sioux Falls, South Dakota
I reread the August 2008 FMC article about installing a digital converter box, and it does not address how to get the VCR to work again. A converter box is installed in the antenna line to each TV “” front and back “”and they work. The VCR will play a tape but will not record. I have been told to put a converter box in the VCR input, but I fear the two remote-control signals will interfere as the two converter boxes will be close to each other.
Another oddball event I’ve noticed with the change to digital TV is that the 21-inch picture is now 16 1/2 inches (sometimes it is full width but 2 inches short top and bottom). This is a function of the station and/or program.
Elvin Shaw, F253866, Mesa, Arizona
The VCR should not be affected by the inclusion of the converter. However, with a single converter box you cannot watch one channel and record another. It is possible, though, to add a second converter box should you wish to watch one channel and record another. For more information about how to set up your system with a VCR included, visit www.fcc.gov/consumerfacts/converterbox_vcr.html.
The size of the image you see on the TV is a function of the broadcast, not the converter box.
Fan Sensor
I have a 1998 Georgie Boy Swinger with the 454-cid Chevrolet engine. We are about to head out on a long trip, and on our way home to Vermont from Orange City, Florida, last June, the engine temperature gauge quit. I installed a mechanical gauge that included a sensor between the first two spark plugs on the driver’s side. Now the electric fan on the radiator never comes on. Is that fan connected to the old sensor that I removed? If so, what should I do? I also had to install a new clutch fan.
Bill Chaples, F219836, Orange City, Florida
Chevrolet chassis from that year had two sensors, one on each cylinder head. One is the temperature gauge and the other is for the coolant fan. You may have replaced the sensor for the coolant fan instead of the temperature gauge. I suggest you check to see whether there is a second sensor and, if so, try replacing that one.
If you change out both sensors and are still having problems, you can wire the fan control to a switch on your dash. You should be able to find the correct wires at the fan motor.
Slidin’ Away From Home
I own a 2007 Holiday Rambler Ambassador diesel pusher, currently with 18,000 miles. I bought it used at Lazy Days in Florida in November 2007 with 8,000 miles on it. The date in service was May 2007. Since I bought, I’ve noticed a light whining noise at the rear axle. With time the noise became louder and worse between 60 mph and 75 mph. When there was a load at the right rear axle, the noise disappeared.
I took the coach to a dealer, and they removed the differential and found the side gears worn on one side. I was told this was not covered by warranty and the failure was due to a spinout. They replaced the side gears and differential.
When we drove the motorhome after the repair, it still had the same noise. So we took it back to the service center, and the pinion gear was replaced. I was told a piece of metal from the side gears damaged the pinion. The dealer said the items are not covered under warranty for the same reason (spinout). I’m looking at a $5,000 repair bill.
This is my fifth motorhome (I’ve owned a Ford store for 30 years). From my experience and technical knowledge of trucks and automobiles, I think it is nearly impossible to abuse this unit and have this result. We think the problem came from an improper adjustment from day one. I would like your opinion.
Also, the metal structure and railing underneath the motorhome have begun to rust. What would you recommend to protect the metal and electrical connections?
Finally, do you have an opinion on an extended service plan from National Warranty of Florida Inc.?
Donald Dupuis, F201370, Casselman, Ontario, Canada
I’m very sorry to learn of your problems. I hope they’re over for you.
I’ve never heard of a motorhome the size of yours spinning out on dry pavement, so I don’t understand how a spinout could cause damage to the side gears. Also, the technician should have examined the ring and pinion gears for damage at the time the differential and side gear were replaced. Perhaps the dealer would reconsider the labor charge for that repair.
Rustoleum spray paint has always served me well for protecting metal from rusting. Clear spray lacquer or an ignition spray (available at any auto-parts store) will protect the wiring.
I cannot comment on any specific extended service plan other than to say check with the Better Business Bureau and ask the company for recommendations from its customers.
No-Start Suncrest
I have a 1990 Suncrest motorhome. A few days ago, I went to start my RV and nothing happened. So I charged my batteries and tried again; still nothing. The headlights and horn also do not work. I just had the alternator replaced, and it seemed to work fine. Do you have any suggestions?
Mary Rojas, North Highlands, California
My first thought would be that your battery has become disconnected. Perhaps when the alternator was replaced, the technician failed to secure one of the battery cables properly and it worked itself loose. Check all the connections to determine whether this is the problem. If all the connections are tight, remove the battery and take it to an auto-parts store to have a load test performed. This will determine whether the battery is charged and strong. If the battery checks out, you will need to have the motorhome’s electrical system checked out to determine where the power interruption is occurring.
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