No Dash Fan Info
This information may help Dennis Auclair with the issue he described in his “No Dash Fan” letter that appeared in the March 2010 issue of Family Motor Coaching (page 14). I had the same problem on my 2000 Monaco Knight and this Web site was very helpful: www.evanstempcon.com/guides_ccl.php. The page includes links to schematics for the dash heater and air-conditioner controls and other troubleshooting information. My problem was found to be a bad pin connection on the fuse panel. Thank you for your very informative articles.
Raymond Houghtaling, F283240, Cairo, New York
Norcold Error Code Info
Those who own a Norcold refrigerator and have received a “NO CO” error message should check out the latest addition to the RV Tech Library (www.rvtechlibrary.com/appliances/noco.htm) to find out how to reset the refrigerator. With a little technical ability, owners can remedy the problem and avoid an expensive trip to the Norcold repair center.
Bob Percefull, F339984, Raleigh, North Carolina
Leaky Ice Maker Info
Regarding the problem described in the “Leaky Ice Makers” letter that appeared in the March 2010 issue of the magazine (page 14), I installed a U-Line refrigerator and ice maker in my home, having been familiar with the unit in RVs. The unit leaked at the provided brass connecter interface with the plastic water control valve and caused more than $40,000 in damage to our home while we were away. A second unit paid for by the insurance company did the same thing. The fix was to install another brass connector with a smaller internal-diameter rubber gasket, purchased from Lowe’s. This allowed a greater surface area interface between the gasket and the flange of the control valve. U-Line never would acknowledge that this was what caused the water seeping around the rubber gasket.
Derrick Parish, F258571, Granbury, Texas
In the past, U-Line used a water valve that is common to other appliances, with garden hose threads on the valve. However, apparently they replaced this connection with a new valve that connects directly to a 1/4-inch tube. The garden hose threaded valve also was used on Dometic refrigerators in the past with much success. Making the necessary repair on a refrigerator equipped with an ice maker shouldn’t be major problem, as, in a majority of cases, the valve is readily accessible in the lower vent from the outside.
I, too, had three U-Line ice makers (that I thought were leaking): in the RV, the boat, and at home. They all dripped water into the ice collection bucket and froze it into a solid block of ice. I experimented with the settings and nothing helped. I even took one of them to a U-Line repair shop, but the problem still existed.
One day, as I watched the ice maker dump ice, I noticed water dripping from the bottom of the tray, but the tray was not overflowing. Investigating further, I noticed that the bottom of the tray was warm; the frost on the bottom had melted and was causing the drip. The documentation for the ice maker states that the tray is heated to release the cubes before dumping. That is the reason recently frozen cubes are rotated to a position above the tray instead of being dumped directly into the bucket. While being held above the tray, the heated surfaces of the cubes refreeze before the cubes are dumped in the next cycle. Apparently, the heating of the tray causes the frost to melt and drip into the bucket.
Guy Bohner, F212035, Stuart, Florida
Coach Tires
Having been under the weather for several years, I am now ready to start traveling again. However, as I look at the tires on my motorhome, I don’t feel very confident about their condition. I have done some checking locally, and there are so many choices out there that it is very confusing to make a decision. My coach has a 16,000-pound gross vehicle weight rating. Currently it has Michelin 225/70R19.5 XRV tires, load range F. I’ve been given the choice of staying with new Michelin tires or going with Bridgestone or Hankook tires. I’ve had problems with the older-style Michelin tires blowing out, and I can find no really good information on the other tires to make an informed decision. Have there been any articles written lately about tire choices that I can access from the archives?
Russell Trefethen, F65891, Zephyrhills, Florida
We haven’t published any articles that would suggest purchasing a particular tire brand, and really wouldn’t be able to do that. However, the February 2008 issue of Family Motor Coaching did have an article titled “Motorhome Tires” (page 68) that spotlighted motorhome tires offered by several manufacturers. If you no longer have that issue, you can find the article online at FMCA.com.
Another useful article might be “Weight And Tire Safety,” which appeared in the July 2007 issue of FMC (page 62). This story also is available at FMCA.com.
In addition, the RV Safety & Education Foundation has tire-related information posted on its Web site, www.rvsafety.com.
Coach Tires Info
Concerning the “Coach Tires” letter from Marvin Ussery in the January 2010 issue (page 18), I had the exact same wear problem with the front tires on my Holiday Rambler. The tires were wearing on the second rib. I called Goodyear reps, tire stores, and other people who I thought would have a solution to this wear problem. I read many articles in magazines, but I couldn’t find any information that addressed this condition.
The outside and the inside ridges on the tires were fine; it was the second ridge that was wearing “cups.” I changed the shocks, rotated the tires, and adjusted the tire pressures, but nothing helped. No one could figure out why the tires were wearing in this odd way.
Finally, I talked with a person who thought that it could be the balancing. I previously was told that it wasn’t necessary to balance the front tires. Well, I found that you do need to balance the front tires. So, I had the tires rotated and balanced, and the problem disappeared.
Dennis Ekdahl, F360096, Santa Maria, California
Tire Pressures
I have a 1984 Holiday Rambler 24-foot Type C on a Ford chassis with dual rear wheels, and I have a question about the information on the door frame. It states that the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) is 11,000 pounds, with the gross axle weight rating (GAWR) for the front to be 4,000 and GAWR for the rear to be 7,400. Isn’t that already more than the stated GVWR?
Also, it states that the recommended tire pressure for all the tires, front and rear, is 50 psi. Isn’t that way too low for the stated weight? I’m currently running Kumho Road Venture H/Ts with a D load range (the only 8.75-inch-by-16.5-inch tires I could still find) at their recommended pressure of 65 psi. The steel wheels are stamped at 80 psi. I’ve weighed the front and rear axle weights and they are within limits “” barely. Why would the motorhome manufacturer recommend such low tire pressures? Are my tire pressures okay?
Bob Johnson, F249664, Del City, Oklahoma
The total weight ratings of the axles often exceed the factory’s GVWR. Ford engineers use federally approved guidelines to determine the GVWR and the GAWR for the chassis. The rates take into consideration the limitations of the major components of the system “” the engine, transmission, brakes, axle, tires, and frame. What you have to remember is that the stated recommendations for tire pressures are for the original-equipment tires, not the replacement tires you’re using.
Since you’ve changed to a different brand, use Kumho’s air pressure guidelines for the weight those tires are carrying. Choose the correct air pressure for the weight at each tire position. But remember to use the same pressure for each tire on the same axle. That means, both front tires should be inflated to the same pressure, using the heaviest weight reading to determine the pressure, and all four rear tires should have the same pressure, again, using the heaviest weight reading to determine correct pressure. Make sure to always check the pressure when the tires are cold.
Burnt Rubber
I just read Tom Ganahl’s “Towed Car Tire Wear” letter in the December 2009 issue (page 20). In addition to his concerns about tire wear, Tom also reported detecting “the burning rubber scent you’ll smell at drag races.” I had a similar experience. The first time I smelled this, I contacted the dealership where we bought our coach. They said that this is common and caused by little bits of rubber kicked up from the road by the motorhome and deposited on the exhaust manifolds of the towed vehicle. This is particularly noticeable on towed vehicles with crosswise engines in front-wheel-drive configurations. When you first start the engine, you get this smell until the rubber burns off.
I have been under my Honda Pilot and have verified that this is why I get that smell. The best way to verify that the smell isn’t coming from tire scrubbing, etc. is to note whether the smell exists at the time the coach is first stopped, or whether it appears within minutes after the towed vehicle is started.
Bob Bulot, F100297, Grants Pass, Oregon
I read in the December 2009 issue (“Towed Car Tire Wear,” page 20) about Tom Ganahl’s problem with his Jeep Liberty. I have a 2006 Liberty and also smell rubber burning while driving the vehicle after it’s been towed. I have talked to two other owners, and they have noticed the same smell. I have had the car at the dealer three times, and they have checked wheel bearings and brakes and have not found a problem. Maybe you can help and save all Liberty owners some grief and aggravation. The alignment and tires are fine.
John Deboer, F377050, Mesa, Arizona
If you’ve had the alignment and balance checked and they are on spec, you should be fine. As Mr. Bulot explained in his letter, the burnt rubber smell may come from very tiny bits of rubber thrown on the towed vehicle’s exhaust system while it’s being towed. Then, when you drive the Liberty, the exhaust heats up and burns off the sheen of rubber. You wouldn’t normally smell this when driving the Liberty under normal conditions, because there’s no buildup. It only occurs after it’s been towed. I get the same smell after towing my 2007 Jeep JK Unlimited.
Nitrogen
Could you please give me your opinion about filling motorhome tires with nitrogen instead of air? I’ve put nitrogen in my car tires and am pleased that I don’t have to fill them as much as I did in the past.
Ann G. Dye, F234786, Las Vegas, Nevada
Nitrogen is a hot topic when it comes to tire inflation, but there is no real secret, just a simple fact: because nitrogen molecules are larger than molecules of oxygen, water vapor, and other gases in air, nitrogen is the least permeable and thus should stay in the tires longer than the other gases.
There really are three choices for air choices for filling your tires: regular air (such as a coin-operated pump at a convenience store); dry air, which is provided by a quality air system with a dryer; and nitrogen. The dry air and nitrogen methods both provide moisture-free air. Regular air saturated with water vapor will have a larger change in pressure as the temperature changes. Since dry air and nitrogen have very little water vapor, the change in pressure as the temperature changes is minimal.
I will tell you that I fill my motorhome tires with normal air and have not tried nitrogen, so I can’t give you a comparison based on experience. I should note, however, that nitrogen inflation is no substitute for conducting regular inflation checks and maintaining proper pressure.
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