Batteries
Is it a good idea to keep my motorhome plugged in to AC power while not being used?
Marilee Fichera, F406299
Mariposa, California
As long as you have a modern three-stage interter/charger, charger, or convertor, it should not hurt the batteries to leave it plugged in. However, many older convertors are set at voltage levels that will overcharge the batteries if allowed to charge continuously.
To determine whether your equipment can be left plugged and charging all the time, you will need to test the voltage once the batteries are charged. If the charging unit maintains battery level after full charge level/float stage is reached (after 24 hours or more hours of charging) between 13.2 and 13.5 volts DC, you should be okay. If the voltage is higher, you could overcharge and damage the batteries.
CR-V Battery Problems
I have a 2009 Honda CR-V with a GPS navigation system. I use a Roadmaster Even Brake system. Each time I towed the car (with two different motorhomes), my car battery died. Is the battery too small to handle the load or is the Even Brake drawing too much current? I had Lazy Days install a charge wire from the motorhome to the Honda prior to battery loss.
Roadmaster states that the brake draw is 8 to 10 amps. Am I missing something here? Could the GPS still be searching for satellites even though it appears to be turned off? I have contacted Honda, and I’m waiting for an answer. They claim the CR-V is excellent as a towed car, but I cannot agree. My next step is change to another vehicle since my confidence is lost if a fix is not found. As a side note, the same brake system and motorhome was used with my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee with zero problems. Have there been articles written in the past on this subject that I missed?
Bill Shaw, F78157
Collegeville, Pennsylvania
First of all, if the GPS is turned off, it is not draining the battery. However, if you’re still worried that it is drawing current, you could remove the GPS’s fuse.
Check the 12-volt-DC supply line from the motorhome to the CR-V to make sure it is supplying 12 volts to the CR-V’s battery. I’m assuming the braking system draws power from the DC accessory port in the vehicle. If this is so, try disconnecting the battery’s negative cable while the CR-V is still connected to the motorhome. Depending on how the coach’s supply line is wired, this may still power the brake system but eliminate the car’s battery from the system. I also suggest that you read the CR-V owners manual to make sure there isn’t a fuse to be removed. A call to Roadmaster explaining your problem may also yield some answers.
Have the battery checked to make sure it’s up to snuff. I’m on the third battery in my 2007 Jeep, because the first two lost cells while being towed. They would hold charges as long as I was regularly driving the Jeep, but when I’d leave it for a week or so in the garage, the battery would go dead. When you stop for fuel or a driving break, start the Honda and run the transmission through the gears.
Follow-up from Mr. Shaw: I found that the 12-volt-DC plug in the CR-V read only 10 volts. As you know, I need 12 volts for the Even Brake. I will install a separate, dedicated 12-volt line for the Even Brake that is hot all the time. In addition I will pull fuse 34 or the radio/GPS fuse each time I use the brake for more than eight hours. It’s a pain, but a necessity.
Sahara Questions
I have a number of questions I’m hoping you can answer.
First, the roof on my 1997 Safari Sahara is clean, and I have yet to see evidence of leaks. The problem is that it’s loose. I’m sure it balloons/rises when I’m driving down the road. Is there an adhesive I can inject to better secure the roof? I have a similar problem with the fabric on the ceiling. It seems that when I cleaned it, the water-soluble glue loosened. Injections seem the only solution.
Second, do you have any idea where I can find the exterior paint codes for my motorhome?
Finally, my RV has been in a body shop for the past two months so the solar panels have been useless. Now my starter batteries are dead. (I’m assuming that is because of a lack of access to the solar panels.) The batteries are about 1 year old. I am able to start the coach by toggling the dash switch for the house batteries. In a recent article, I read that RVs stored for the winter should have the starter batteries charged using a good-quality multistage charger. NAPA Auto Parts has one for $50, but I don’t know what size/amp charger I need. I have two starter batteries and four house batteries.
Roger Gibson, F406321
Palm Desert, California
To answer your first question, I contacted an automotive parts, paint, and adhesives specialty house supplier and was told that you should look for a product called Dual-Purpose Panel Adhesive (product number 39747) from SEM Products Inc. The company also supplies the special applicator gun (product number 70073), which is required to apply the product. Visit www.semproducts.com or call SEM Products at (866) 327-7829 for more information. I’m not sure what material your motorhome’s roof is made of, so check first to assure that the adhesive can be used on your roof.
To find your paint codes, I’d start by searching through the motorhome’s owners manuals. If you don’t have the manuals “” or can’t find paint code information within the pages “” contact Monaco RV LLC at (877) 466-6226.
The answer to your final question depends on a number of individual factors you will need to determine yourself. How quickly do you want to charge the batteries? What type batteries? Will the charger be used just to maintain the batteries during storage, or will it be used for other purposes? Here is my opinion. If the charger is to be used for two flooded-cell chassis batteries, and time is not an issue, a 5-amp to 10-amp multicharger is sufficient. Just remember, the bigger the charger, the faster the charge rate. However, a high charge rate means there will be more gassing and more maintenance. If you only need to keep the batteries charged up during storage, my suggestion is to buy the smaller multi-stage charger.
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