Macerator
I have a 2010 Roadtrek Type B motorhome that I ordered and received in February 2010. I went on a trip to Las Cruces, New Mexico, in October 2010 to visit with family. I used the macerator pump to empty both the black and gray water tanks. The system worked fine, except that it blew the fuse. I replaced the fuse and was able to empty both tanks. Returning home, I went to empty the tank, but it would not empty. The macerator pump did come on, but nothing came out from the black and gray water tanks. As a result, I took the motorhome to my dealer, and they replaced the macerator pump with another one. It was found that the original pump had a piece of material in it, possibly toilet paper.
The next time out I emptied both tanks with no problem. But the second time I went to empty the holding tanks, the fuse blew again. I tried to empty the tanks three times, but the macerator pump would not work. I took the motorhome to a Roadtrek dealer in St. Augustine, Florida. The dealer took out the macerator pump and found that it was clogged with toilet paper. (The clog occurred where the tank contents enter the pump.) The dealer was able to take out the small amount of toilet paper. The macerator pump worked okay after that.
We use only RV-specific, one-ply toilet paper. Prior to emptying the black tank, I always fill it with water and then empty it. I then fill the black tank again and dump. After this flushing, I add two to three gallons of water along with the proper toilet treatment.
In my 37 years of owning numerous RVs that relied on gravity flow using a 3-inch sewer pipe to empty the tanks, I never had a problem. Now I’ve had problems with two macerator pumps. I have a feeling that the material from the sewer outlet is not flowing to the macerator pump, because there’s not enough gravity feed. What am I doing wrong? Is it safe to say that a macerator pump is not advisable for a Type B motorhome?
Ron Cabral, F303873
New Bedford, Massachusetts
It sounds as though you’re doing everything correctly, and that you are simply having a problem with the macerator pump. Roadtrek has an excellent reputation in the RV industry, so I’d call the company’s customer service department (888-762-3873) and discuss your problem with them. Perhaps other FMCA members have had a similar problem and could provide some information that could help Mr. Cabral.
Inuvik Or Bust
My wife and I plan to drive our 2004 Monaco Monarch SE to Inuvik, Northwest Territories, Canada, in the summer of 2012. From a little east of Dawson City on the Klondike Highway, we will take the Dempster Highway, a 456-mile gravel road over mountains and through tundra, to Inuvik, which lies above the Arctic Circle. Do you recommend installing a screen to protect the front of the motorhome? If so, can you direct me to a facility that could do the installation?
Rob Coppock, F346955
Baker, West Virginia
I can still remember reading in The Milepost travel planner (www.themilepost.com) about gravel screens back in the days when much of the Alcan was unpaved, but I haven’t seen anything in the last decade or two. Although the Dempster Highway is a 456-mile gravel road, reports in The Milepost indicate that it is in good condition.
You mention in your letter that you want to protect the front of the motorhome. If by that you mean you want to protect the front end’s body and paint, there are numerous types of masks, bras, and films available that will provide adequate coverage across the nose of the motorhome. Companies such as Coastline Cover Company (800-216-1664, www.coastlinecover.com) and Diamond Shield (888-806-5862, www.diamond-shield.com) can provide products to prevent rocks thrown up by passing vehicles from damaging your motorhome’s finish. If you plan to tow another vehicle behind the motorhome during the trip, you also should consider some type of front-end protection for it in the form of a bra or deflector. Blue Ox (888-425-5382, www.blueox.us), Roadmaster (800-669-9690, www.roadmasterinc.com), and Protect-A-Tow (888-264-5444, http://protectatow.tripod.com) all offer deflectors that keep rocks thrown up by the motorhome from damaging the front of the towed vehicle.
If the protection you are seeking is for your motorhome’s radiator and fan, a suggestion in The Milepost is that you use aluminum screening held in place by plastic wire wraps to keep gravel from getting to these cooling system parts. You can place the screen in front of or behind the grille, and it should keep the stones from impacting the radiator. You also might want to add screen across any open areas under the motorhome where rocks could bounce up from the roadway and damage the radiator or fan. Make sure the screen is not too fine or it can reduce airflow to the radiator. Hardware cloth or open mesh screen should work to keep the rocks out but the air coming in.
According to The Milepost, the gravel road is treated with calcium chloride to reduce dust and serve as a bonding agent. When it rains, the treatment can make the road very slippery, so be careful when driving in wet weather. Also, it is recommended that you have your motorhome and towed vehicle washed as soon as you’ve completed your travels on the Dempster Highway. The calcium chloride can lead to corrosion if left on metal surfaces for extended periods of time.
Dripping Air Conditioner
When my motorhome’s air conditioner runs for an extended period of time, drops of condensation start dripping through my ceiling grid. Water still runs out from the unit onto the roof. How can I eliminate this problem?
Joe Yacino, F308265
Douglas, Massachusetts
Your leaking problem could be caused by one of many factors. I suggest that you take the motorhome to an authorized service center for that air conditioner manufacturer. The authorized service center can contact the tech service department of the air conditioner manufacturer, and they may have a pattern of experience with that particular problem. The technician will need to run the air conditioner until it starts leaking and then will need to determine whether the water is leaking from the roof seal. If not, he or she should look for a crack in the base pan, flooding around the mounting bolts, or frost in the corners of the evaporator. It also could be that the cold air is super-cooling some piece of equipment that is causing condensation to form — similar to when you see water on the outside of an iced-tea glass — and then drip into the motorhome. Sorry I can’t be more specific.
Cooling Unit Problems
I have a Norcold 683 refrigerator. The freezer works great, but the refrigeration box doesn’t get cold. I’ve read of this problem in different forums but have never seen any diagnosis or solutions given. Can you help or point me in the right direction?
Al Webster, F287258
Webster, New York
It’s likely that the cooling unit is starting to fail. It has either developed a partial blockage, causing a loss in efficiency and circulation, or it has lost some of the refrigerant or hydrogen charge. With the lost efficiency, it is not distilling enough ammonia to supply both evaporators. The freezer evaporator is first in line for the refrigerant, and there evidently is enough ammonia to keep the freezer cold, but there is not enough ammonia to satisfy the secondary evaporator for the food storage compartment. The condition will continue to deteriorate until nothing gets cold. Unfortunately, it sounds to me as though you will need to have the cooling unit replaced or purchase a new refrigerato
You also should verify that the manufacturer of your motorhome has installed the refrigerator using optimum clearances. If air does not circulate correctly behind the refrigerator due to incorrect installation, this could lead to the cooling unit’s poor performance. So, before replacing the cooling system, assure that the installation is correct.
Bad Batteries
In March 2010 we purchased a Winnebago Era 170X 24-foot motorhome. Several times we have had a problem starting the motorhome. The last time this happened, I could not get it to start with the chassis battery or the backup emergency start using the house battery. The motorhome was hauled to Mark Dodge in Mobile, Alabama. Twice we were told it was a dead cell in the battery, and they replaced it. However, they did not find or correct what was ruining the battery. There is a battery disconnect under the dash, and I have been using it, but when doing so, it also keeps the remote from opening the doors. This is a safety hazard. Has anyone heard of a similar type problem and whether solution was found? I’m desperate for an answer.
Paul Bullard, F359455
Gulfport, Mississippi
I suggest that you fully charge the batteries and have them load-tested by a technician with the appropriate battery-testing equipment. You also should consider running a draw test on the motorhome to determine if there are parasitic draws sapping the batteries. If you do not use the motorhome for more than two weeks, you should charge the batteries by plugging into 120-volt-AC power, using some type of battery charger, or installing solar panels with a charging system.
If none of the above helps solve the problem, it could be that the batteries are defective. I had to replace the battery in my 2007 Jeep three times before I got one that lasted. This could be what is happening with your motorhome.
Battery Question
I have a 1997 Safari Sahara with two solar panels. The two starter batteries and four house batteries, purchased and installed at Sears, are 2 years old. The house batteries always seem to be charged, but the starter batteries have gone dead twice. The RV hasn’t been started for four or five months, although I run the generator every two to three weeks. I thought the house batteries could be relied upon to keep the starter batteries charged. Am I incorrect, or do you think the technician at Sears may have wired them wrong?
Roger Gibson, F406321
Palm Desert, California
I’m not certain whether one solar panel is for the starter batteries or whether both were wired to the house batteries — the latter being the more common method. If both solar panels were wired to the house batteries, it’s very likely that in four or five months, the starter batteries would self-discharge. If one solar panel is wired to the starter batteries, your problem could be a bad battery, a bad solar panel, a bad charging control, or a sizeable parasitic draw. I suggest you take your motorhome to a service center and have a knowledgeable electrical technician run some diagnostic tests to determine the cause of the problem.
Glass Mat Batteries
I have a 2006 motorhome that came with absorbed glass mat (AGM) house batteries. First, what life expectancy should I expect from an AGM compared to a regular deep-cycle battery? Second, is it better to keep the AGM batteries fully charged (via a battery charger, solar charging) or allow them to run down and recharge?
Les Ewer, F380840
Cal-Nev-Ari, Nevada
An AGM is still a lead-acid battery, and the longevity will be proportional to the way it is used. Repeated deep discharges will shorten its life. For longer life, never discharge the battery more than 50 percent. As for keeping the batteries charged, use a three-stage charging system and float the charge at around 13.3 volts. My AGM batteries were 6 years old this past March and are still very strong. I seldom discharge below 12.2 volts, and I leave them on charge when we are not traveling.
Coach Leveling
I own a 40-foot 2006 Holiday Rambler Ambassador on a Roadmaster chassis with a three-point hydraulic leveling system and three slideouts. I am wondering what the proper procedure should be for leveling the motorhome. I have spoken to a few folks, including the dealer from whom I purchased the coach, and most everyone says that it should be leveled before extending the slideouts. However, the Ambassador owner’s manual specifically states: “Perform the slideout room operation with the air suspension system full.” This statement indicates to me that the slideouts should be extended before dumping the air and leveling the unit.
Also, is it safe to use the automatic function when leveling the coach or should I be using the system in the manual mode? Auto mode always lowers the front jack first and then the two in the rear. I wonder whether this is causing the windshield to flex. I am currently on my third windshield because of stress cracks, and I don’t know whether this is the result of improper leveling procedures (I always extend the slideouts first as stated in the manual and use the auto leveling function) or a structural integrity issue. The last incident occurred after the motorhome was parked and leveled in a campground. During the second day of our stay, I noticed the windshield had cracked in the upper driver’s-side corner, and after a few hours the cracks became worse and the windshield began to separate from the body of the coach. This is very frustrating, to say the least! The original windshield was replaced by the dealer before we took delivery because of a crack. Any light you can shed on this situation would be appreciated.
Donald Bean, F385550
Monson, Massachusetts
You’re right; everyone I’ve talked with and all the owner’s manuals supplied in motorhomes I’ve tested over the years say to deploy the leveling jacks before the slideouts. However, if your owner’s manual says to do the slideouts first, follow those instructions. The auto level system should be the better way to level your motorhome. I have no idea what conditions are causing your windshield to crack, but I suggest that you contact Holiday Rambler’s technical support at (877) 466-6226 to find out whether this problem has been encountered by other motorhomers, what’s causing it, and if there is a solution.
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