Refrigerator Facts
We have a 2003 Phaeton motorhome with a side-by-side refrigerator/freezer. It is a Dometic NDR 1292 model. It was not staying cool (the refrigerator reached 90 degrees at one point), so the dealership installed a new cooling unit. The problem now is that the temperature in the refrigerator varies between 42 and 50 degrees, and the freezer varies between 28 and 32 degrees. It can make ice, but it does not freeze anything, even a loaf of bread. The refrigerator is not cool enough. It should be around 32 degrees. Any suggestions as to what else can be done to make it cooler? The dealership says that they have checked the controls and the circuit boards and they seem to be working.
Yvonne Hindle
Ontario, Canada
It is not realistic to expect the food storage compartment to operate at 32 degrees. The normal range is from 38 to 43 degrees in the refrigerator, and the freezer should be approximately 30 degrees lower than the food storage compartment. You normally will find a 10- to 15-degree temperature variation in a side-by-side freezer — top to bottom, so it makes a big difference where you place the temperature sensor.
To determine what the real temperature is in the refrigerator, put an aquarium-style thermometer in a small glass of water, place it in the center of a middle shelf, and leave it overnight. For the freezer, it is best to use a remote thermometer and place the probe on an upper shelf but below the ice maker. Please remember that not all refrigerators operate the same, especially those that are located in a slideout room where ventilation can affect performance dramatically. Record the temperatures the first thing each morning for a few days and return the unit to the dealer if the refrigerator is performing below standard.
While it sounds as though the problem is in the cooling unit, you also should check to make sure the clearances — top, sides, and rear — are adequate and that there is good ventilation for the cooling unit. If air cannot circulate behind the refrigerator, a fan may be necessary. Also, make sure to inspect the door gaskets using the dollar bill test and verify that the condensate drain has a restrictor in the end so warm air cannot get into the unit.
Extended Refrigerator Storage
Due to circumstances beyond my control, I have had to store my 2006 Safari Trek since mid-October 2012. I have driven the motorhome around occasionally to “exercise” the tires, chassis, engine, etc., and have regularly exercised the generator. I have no access to shore power, but I have solar panels, so the batteries are all up to snuff. However, I haven’t exercised the Dometic refrigerator. A friend, whose opinion I usually trust, urged me to run the refrigerator on propane on the lowest setting from time to time — possibly every four to six weeks for periods of 24 to 48 hours. The reason for this, he said, is to maintain and assure long-term proper operation of the refrigerator. What is your opinion about the need to run the refrigerator occasionally to keep it in normal operating condition?
Tom Mosher, F228131
Spokane, Washington
Experts have differing opinions about this topic. Here is my take: The cooling unit, the most expensive replacement part, is a sealed system that contains ammonia, a corrosive chemical. The ammonia is partly neutralized by the antioxidant sodium chromate. Periodically running the cooling unit does not change these two factors, and if there is a cooling unit failure, it will happen regardless of whether the refrigerator has been sitting idle or operating 100 percent of the time, and any failure is unpredictable.
Cooling unit failure normally is the result of a leak in the system — the hydrogen gas, the ammonia refrigerant, or both — that’s caused by the slow corrosion of the ferrous pipes or welds. Some fail in the first year, but I have seen 20-year-old boxes still going strong. If power to the refrigerator is available, I recommend running the unit to keep it circulating and the varmints away. It is my opinion that not running the refrigerator will not extend the life of the cooling unit. If convenient power is not available, I would let it sit idle until a couple of weeks before taking a trip and then run it on propane for a day or two. This will give you time to make sure the refrigerator is operational and some leeway to get it fixed if it does not cool adequately.
Leveler Problem
We have a preowned 1999 Fleetwood Southwind. When we are driving down the highway, the light and audible alarm for the Power Gear levelers will suddenly go off. Obviously, the levelers aren’t extended, but it still gives us a scare when we first hear it. Please tell us how to cure this problem.
Sally Leibovitz, F387860
Phoenix, Arizona
The alarm you see and hear is the leveling system alerting you that it is going into “emergency retract” mode. This is generally caused by low fluid in the tank of the hydraulic pump. This happens when the fluid is low enough to “close” the float switch in the tank when the coach is moving or taking a sharp corner. It then passes the signal to the leveling control that the “jacks are down.” If the motorhome is in gear and the parking brake is not engaged, the control will try to initiate an “emergency retract,” when, in fact, the jacks are retracted. The solution is to check the fluid level on a regular basis when the jacks are retracted, and fill as needed. If the fluid levels are good, you may have a faulty or loose float switch.
If you no longer have the owners manual for your leveling system or would like to view troubleshooting remedies, visit www.powergearus.com/tech-docs for this information.
Preventive Maintenance
I am a full-time motorhomer and have faithfully performed monthly preventive maintenance for the past eight years. This includes running the generator and diesel engine for 30 minutes. The motorhome will now be sitting for 12 months in a campground, and I’m wondering whether it would be okay not to run them as often? I was thinking of running the generator every other month and the diesel engine every three months. I have more than 4,500 hours on the generator and 125,000-plus miles on the diesel engine. What are your thoughts about this approach?
Julius R. Hjulian, F350603
Livingston, Texas
I assume your monthly preventive maintenance procedures are listed in your owners manual(s). If so, I would be remiss to suggest that they are no longer necessary. However, during convention seminars that I hosted while serving as technical editor, I learned you can add fuel stabilizer, such as STA-BIL, to the fuel tank (following the directions listed on the bottle), and it will provide the protection necessary so that you wouldn’t need to run the generator and engine for short periods. Another suggestion, since this motorhome has a diesel engine, is to add a biocide to the fuel tank and fill the tank to minimize condensation. If possible, start the engine occasionally, but only if you can drive the motorhome 25 or more miles — enough time to get the oil and coolant up to operating temperatures. If this can’t be done, do not start the engine. Finally, be sure to load your generator to approximately 50 percent of its kilowatt rating when exercising it.
{loadpositionEndBlurbTechTalk}