Satellite Internet
I work on the road via the Internet while traveling. The wireless Internet access at RV parks is usually very slow and not sufficient. Have you reviewed any of the satellite systems that are available? Please advise me of any information you’ve gathered on current Internet access hardware/software.
Kathy Symens, F387550
Massillon, Ohio
Not too long ago, folks were happy to lug their laptops to the campground office and plug into their dial-up service to access the Internet and retrieve e-mail. The addition of Wi-Fi at many RV parks now allows RVers to enjoy broadband Internet from the comfort of their motorhome. However, the service “” which is often free “” doesn’t always provide the speed and reliability that you would find were it possible to run a dedicated DSL line into your coach.
However, you do have other wireless options. There are satellite services, similar to what you have for your TV, that require a special roof-mounted antenna for reception. If you are interested in this type of setup, you should talk to a satellite TV antenna company such as MotoSAT, KVH, or Winegard to find out what’s available. HughesNet Mobile, EchoSAT, iDirect, and LinkStar are among the satellite Internet service providers. Both the satellite and service can be rather expensive, and many systems require stationary use, but once you’re set up and get satellite acquisition, the service is very good.
Another option is cellular wireless Internet service, which is offered by most of the major cellular service providers (AT&T, Sprint, Verizon, etc.). In this scenario, you purchase a wireless card or modem that is either inserted or connected to your laptop or personal computer. You sign up for service from the provider, similar to what you would do with a cell phone.
While cellular wireless Internet is less expensive (both the hardware and service) than satellite Internet, there’s always the chance “” just as with your cell phone “” that you could lose or not be able to acquire a signal if you’re too far away from a cell tower. On the plus side, service is available even when you’re moving, as long as there is a nearby cell tower to provide the signal.
Radiator For A 1989 Foretravel
Do you have any information on where to find a radiator for a 1989 Foretravel motorhome?
Robert Klein, F248729
Stevens Point, Wisconsin
Rather than buying a used radiator, I’d recommend having a competent radiator shop build one to fit your motorhome. They could even add another core or two if you wished. You’re talking about an 18-year-old motorhome, and any used radiator you find would likely be near the end of its useful life. Plus, the mounting won’t be exact and the installation will put stress on older parts.
However, if you do wish to find a used radiator, following is a list of companies that offer used RV parts. I’m sure there are many more, but this should give you a start.
Arizona RV Salvage “” Phoenix, AZ; (602) 272-0301
Bontrager’s Surplus Inc. “” White Pigeon, MI; (269) 483-7017
Brandon Auto Salvage “” Valrico, FL; (800) 282-7462
Colaw RV Salvage “” Carthage, MO; (417) 548-2125
Gundie’s Inc. “” Bellingham, WA; (360) 733-5036
National Recovery Service Inc. “” Liberty, NC; (800) 903-7285
RV Surplus & Salvage Inc. “” Elkhart, IN; (574) 264-5575
Singleton RV Salvage & Sales “” Rochester, WA; (360) 273-9566
Walt’s RV Surplus “” Fontana, CA; (909) 823-0563
Weller Auto “” Grand Rapids, MI; (616) 538-5000
Winnebago Surplus “” Forest City, IA; (641) 585-6935
Objectionable Odor
I have a 2000 National RV Tropi-Cal gas model with two slideouts that was purchased last October and stored indoors until this past spring.
The kitchen/living area slideout contains a U-shaped galley area. To the left is the sink; straight ahead is the cooktop; and to the right is counter area. The area beneath the sink has storage cabinets, and the area beneath the cooktop has three drawers “” they both share the same enclosed space and have developed an odor that’s gotten worse as the year has gone on.
The area under the countertop on the right is separate from the other enclosed area and is not connected. There is no odor present there. Located under the sink and cooktop area are the usual water and drain pipes, vent cap, and water heater. Carpet is installed in the storage area under the sink, with wood under the drawers.
I can find no indication of any leaks, and everything is dry. The odor is not a “musty” smell as you might get from a gray holding tank leak. Actually, I cannot describe the odor, as it is not like anything I have experienced before.
A service tech came to our campsite and tightened the flange that holds the drainpipes in place as they go through the compartment floor and into the holding tank. He said his experience has shown that often the connector that runs under the floor and into the tank will crack and must be replaced. He also indicated this can be a recurring problem. National RV disagrees, and they may be right, as it does not smell like any gray holding tank water I have come across in the past.
National RV’s customer service department suggested replacing the vent cap in the compartment, as they sometimes fail. I did this, but it looked to be in good condition and the odor didn’t disappear.
On two separate occasions, I emptied the compartments and removed the drawers. The first time I applied a product used to eliminate organic pet odors, and the second time I sprayed the entire compartment with Febreze. I ran a fan for six hours to help air the compartment out, but the odor returned within 20 minutes of replacing the items in the compartment and drawers. Yes, I checked every item that came out of the cabinets as a possible source, but could find nothing.
So, before I pay someone five hours worth of labor to drop the tank and check from underneath and/or remove the slideout at many additional labor hours, I thought you may have some suggestions I can look at first.
Gary Hand, F44478
Greenwood, Indiana
Assuming your coach is equipped with an LP-gas water heater, you could have an LP-gas leak in that area under the sink. Keep in mind that LP-gas includes a special additive that provides a distinctive smell so leaks can be detected. It’s not the same odor we are familiar with, for example, from an unlighted stovetop burner. Since I don’t know whether you keep the LP-gas tank shut off when the motorhome is not being used, consider trying the following.
On the LP-gas storage tank, turn the service valve completely off. Using fans, air out the coach to completely purge the interior atmosphere. Close all doors and windows and let the motorhome sit for 24 to 48 hours. If the odor is absent when you return, you may have found the problem. Visit an LP-gas store/supplier and purchase an LP-gas leak-detector kit. It’s easy to perform the leak test on all LP fittings.
Finally, consider the possibility that the diaphragm in the LP-gas pressure regulator “” usually located at the propane tank “” is leaking. Depending upon the location of components, that part could be your culprit.
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