Trippy GFCI
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a troubling electrical issue. Last year when I plugged in my brand-new RV at the campsite, the GFCI on the pedestal tripped immediately. The campground had to wire up a standard non-GFCI outlet, and then everything worked fine. I took the RV into the dealer for service and everything checked out okay. They said that possibly the GFCI in the coach needed to be reset or I had moisture in the plug.
Recently I took the RV out of storage and plugged it into my house, which had a GFCI in the circuit, and it tripped again as soon as I plugged it in. I’m taking it in again for service, but I am expecting a similar response that everything works fine when they plug it into their GFCI outlet. Any ideas on what might be the problem?
Jeff Hayes, Monroe, Ohio
Jeff, you clearly have an electrical problem within the alternating current (AC) system on the RV. I would avoid using it until this situation has been resolved. Plus, you may want to try a different dealer, perhaps one where the technicians have electrical training. As to the actual problem, the GFCI is tripping because it is detecting an imbalance between the hot and neutral conductors in the unit, which usually indicates a leakage to ground on one of the wires.
You can do some preliminary investigation yourself. Purchase a plug-in circuit tester from your local hardware store (top photo). They are inexpensive, reliable, and invaluable when checking out AC electrical problems within RVs and even park pedestals. In fact, I recommend that every park pedestal be tested and the voltage measured before ever plugging in for the first time.
For now, plug your coach into a non-GFCI circuit so it won’t trip during the test. Test every receptacle in the coach. Don’t forget those hidden receptacles, such as behind the refrigerator, microwave oven, or converter. If the tester indicates a problem, it will be identified. It is also possible that the GFCI receptacle in the RV is itself faulty, and the park GFCI is sensing this fault and tripping first. Most well-equipped RV service shops will have a GFCI test device on hand (bottom photo). This plug-in device applies a variable and controlled amount of leakage to the GFCI to determine whether it trips at the correct level.
You can also eliminate or condemn the GFCI by removing it temporarily to determine whether the source GFCI still trips. Obviously, the shoreline cord should be unplugged before you remove the GFCI. Simply connect all the black wires together and the white wires together after you remove the GFCI. Be sure to note which are the incoming conductors and which are the downstream conductors; it makes a difference. If the problem is eliminated by removing the GFCI, then simply replace it with a like model.
There’s little else the do-it-yourselfer can tackle. If the problem persists, it will be necessary for a qualified service shop to run a full battery of tests, including a hot skin test.
Fretting The Furnace
Dear RV Doctor:
I have an Excalibur 8500-II furnace and the gas ignition has stopped working. The blower works fine, but there’s no spark to ignite the gas. What could the problem be?
Mike Watt, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Mike, a few things may be causing this, the most likely of which are low voltage, a faulty control board, an incomplete ground circuit, or loose wiring.
Open the furnace access panel on the outside of the coach to expose the control board and wiring. Carefully unplug the wiring harness from the control board and visually inspect the plug and board contacts for damage, dirt, or corrosion. If the board contacts show any sign of corrosion, you can clean them minimally with a regular pencil eraser, or completely with a chemical cleaner and protectant. If there is corrosion or dirt on the plug contacts, carefully scrape it off using a fine screwdriver, dental pick, or similar tool. Be very careful not to bend the connectors in the plug or they won’t make proper contact with the board contact strip.
Check for voltage between the red and yellow wires with the furnace turned on. Any voltage lower than 10.5 volts DC will likely cause the system to malfunction. Check the connector wires for damage and loose connections, paying particular attention to the yellow ground wire. Securely reconnect the wiring harness to the control board and test the system again. If it still doesn’t work, I would suspect a board problem. The board can be removed easily and taken to a qualified RV shop to have it tested.
Other possible culprits are the sail switch or limit switch. It is also possible that the blower is not reaching its rated speed or that the combustion wheel has become loose or weighted down with lint and dust. These components are relatively difficult to access and test without disassembling the furnace further or removing it from the coach.
Unfortunately, space limitations prohibit us from going deeper here. However, I’d have to place my bet on low voltage anyway.
Kwik Help For Steps
Dear RV Doctor:
I installed a replacement motor for my electric steps (Kwikee). At first, the steps would not work. I replaced the switch with the one that came in the kit, and it seemed to work fine. Now the steps stay in the “out” position. When I open the door with the power on, the step cycles in, then back out. Please help!
Rob Dreissig, Elk River, Minnesota
Rob, Kwikee has made a change to its step controls to provide a safer and more robust operation. You should have received a new control unit, motor, and switch in the replacement kit. The new switch is meant to work with the updated controls. In fact, Kwikee has changed the name of the switch from “power switch” to “override switch” as a result of its change in functionality.
With the old power switch, you turned it to the “on” position in order to make the steps follow the door, and you turned it “off” in order to have the steps stay in the current position. The override switch works differently. With the override switch “on,” the step will extend the first time the door is opened and stay that way until the switch is turned “off” or the ignition is turned on. With the override switch in the “off” position, the steps will be controlled by the logic unit and will follow the door with ignition override. You must replace all three components for it to work properly.
If you did not receive a new control unit in the kit, please contact Kwikee for the location of its closest dealer or service center.
{loadpositionEndBlurbHouseCalls}