Jay Parsons, Blue Ridge, Texas
Jay, I am not a proponent of leaving the slide rooms out during storage. Perhaps many of the units you’ve seen belong to owners who are actually using the RV while at home. I recommend that each slide be brought in during any extended period of non-use. When the slide room is left out, dirt, leaves, debris, etc., can gather on the roof sections, creating a mess and inviting water intrusion. Plus, rubber slide seals can dry out and become cracked. Even if the room is equipped with a topper awning, why subject it to the elements when not necessary? In addition, depending on the type of slide mechanism, exposure during non-use can corrode moving components. I suggest keeping them in the travel position during storage.
Lean And Mean
Dear RV Doctor:
My new motorhome leans to the passenger side. The weight record shows that the passenger side rear is about 1,000 pounds different than the driver side rear. The service facility installed a 2-inch block on the rear passenger side to lift the springs, and it doesn’t lean now but it drives differently. The rear end is all over the road. Was the block the proper repair, or would you suggest adding leaf springs?
Peter Griffin, Framingham, Massachusetts
Peter, it’s apparent you’ve had your coach weighed, which is good. It is very important to make sure you know the individual weights of your vehicle. This includes axle weights as well as individual tire position weights. The 1,000-pound discrepancy is significant and should be addressed after a thorough evaluation. In my opinion, the only acceptable way to correct this situation is to redistribute the weight if possible and add leaf springs instead of a solid block. In some cases, air bags can help. The block that was added is not resolving the underlying problem, as it did nothing to redistribute the weight. The result is poor handling, as you have indicated. In addition, frame damage and abnormal tire wear, among other ailments, may be in your future. My concern here is that although your vehicle no longer tilts to one side, the fundamental problem was not addressed, which can, and likely will, lead to other problems.
I highly suggest you take your coach to a frame shop and have the suspension evaluated fully. Recommended repairs may include additional leaves in the springs, a sway control bar, and/or other aftermarket improvements. But the evaluation must be performed first.
Fuel For Thought
Dear RV Doctor:
I have an Onan generator in my Type C motorhome. It had been running fine until a few weeks ago. Now it will not start. The fuel tank is full. After several tests I have done to troubleshoot the problem, I have determined that it is not getting fuel. When I use starting fluid it will fire but will not continue to run. The fuel line from the main tank appears okay. No fuel comes out of the hose that goes into the carburetor when cranking. I have narrowed it down to a clogged filter or a bad pump. Is there a possibility of another issue, such as a safety fuel shutoff? I want to fix this myself. I think I can get at the fuel pump and filter without pulling the generator out of the coach. Is there a test I can do to verify that the pump is good or bad? Thanks for your help!
Randy Fields, Ossian, Indiana
Randy, try this: run a new rubber fuel line from a portable gas can directly to the fuel inlet on the generator. If the unit starts and runs fine, you’ll know the problem lies within the fuel delivery system. If it still will not start, then you can focus your attention on the gen set itself. If it starts and runs as it should using the gas can, replace the entire length of fuel line from the fuel tank to the inlet on the generator. An aged hose is likely to have cracks, resulting in the generator fuel pump sucking air even though no apparent leak exists. The fuel line may look good yet still allow air to enter while cranking the generator. You may have to drop the fuel tank slightly to reach the take-off tube on top in order to replace the whole length. Look also for hidden in-line filters somewhere between the tank and the generator. To be safe, replace all existing fuel filters.
If the unit does not start using the portable fuel supply, remove the fuel solenoid temporarily and connect the fuel line directly to the carburetor. It is possible for the solenoid to become faulty, fouled, or plugged. If the generator starts with the solenoid removed, replace the solenoid.
In some extreme conditions, it may be necessary to measure the actual fuel pressure at the carburetor. A weak fuel pump may be at fault. I’d recommend a professional RV shop if it comes to this. If you have access to another fuel pump, you can swap it out also to be sure. But I’m betting on a cracked fuel hose between the fuel tank and the generator or a plugged filter.
Follow-up from Randy Fields:
Dear RV Doctor:
I did as you suggested and no fuel is being supplied to the carburetor, even when I try to draw fuel from a portable container. I believe it is the fuel pump or, as you call it, the fuel solenoid. Is there a way to test them before I pull the generator?
To test the fuel pump, you’ll need to attach a pressure gauge to the fuel pump outlet hose. While cranking the generator, the pressure should read about 3.5 psi on the gauge. If the psi is lower, replace the fuel pump. You can bench test the fuel solenoid by applying positive 12 volts DC from a battery source to the non-grounded contact on the solenoid and negative 12 volts DC to the grounded terminal. When connected, you should hear an audible “click” as the internal plunger is activated and the solenoid valve is opened. While the solenoid is activated and open, you should be able to blow through it. If the plunger does not move or you cannot blow through the solenoid, replace the solenoid. This is, of course, assuming the pump and solenoid are both receiving the proper voltage during cranking when installed on the generator.
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