MULTIPLE BATTERY MAINTENANCE
I am thinking of hooking up a battery “smart” charger to maintain my batteries during prolonged periods of nonuse, but I don’t know how to connect it to tandem batteries. What is the best way to do this?
TONY TRIMARCO, F408182
Greenwood Lake, New York
The Xtreme Charge XC100-P Battery Charger and Desulfator from PulseTech (www.pulsetech.net) — and other units like it — can intelligently maintain up to four batteries at a time. However, if you leave your house batteries connected to each other, just one charger connection will work.
You didn’t state whether you have two 6-volt batteries or two 12-volt batteries, so the accompanying illustrations cover both. No matter what voltage or how many batteries you may have in the battery bank, the ultimate output powering the RV is always 12 volts DC. As the illustrations show, there is one positive 12-volt cable and one negative 12-volt cable. Simply connect the output leads of the charger to these two ultimate leads going to the circuit. Keep in mind, polarity is important: positive to positive, and negative to negative. It is best to connect the charger directly to the battery posts.
According to PulseTech literature, the XC100-P “evaluates and tests 12-volt lead-acid batteries — VRLA, AGM, or flooded. This battery charger makes maintenance and bulk charging simple with proprietary algorithms and microprocessor-controlled technology that measures voltage and current to determine the proper operating charge. The variable float charge of this battery charger improves battery condition by increasing the charge rate safely to optimal levels and protecting (the battery) from being overcharged.”
I’ve used this charger to both maintain and check my motorhome’s batteries for years without a problem.
A/C OPTIONS
What options are available if the Coleman Model 6537 air-conditioning unit needs replacing? I have a 2008 Winnebago Vectra with this A/C heat pump package, which is a two-stage unit. My unit was diagnosed with failure of the stage-two compressor, most likely caused by a refrigerant leak. The two stages are independent, and stage one is operating normally. I am having it repaired by a certified A/C technician, who is working under the Airxcel authorized RV service center (which does not have the capability to repair). Repair includes replacing the compressor and the reversing valve, which was the cause of the leak. Repair also includes soldering the tubing and adding Schrader valves to recharge the system.
I spoke to Airxcel, the manufacturer of the Coleman A/C units; they no longer manufacture this unit. Their new units are configured differently. Air in and air out are in different locations. (If space were available, custom ducting would be required for a new unit.)
I spoke with Winnebago; there are no replacement units in stock. Also, Winnebago has gone exclusively to roof A/C units and no longer installs basement models in their RV units. Winnebago stated they have no resolution for my problem.
My question is for the future for myself and others. Yes, I was able to obtain a repair this time with a great amount of effort. Repair might not be an option in the future, and this could impact the resale of my RV.
JOHN & KATHY SPUDICK, F432738
Livingston, Texas
New compressors use R-410A refrigerant, which replaced R-22. New compressors run at a higher pressure, which requires more power and plumbing configuration. So, it is very possible that the twin compressor would need to be replaced at the time of service. The cost could be unreasonable, depending on the space available and the plumbing requirements. The best option might be to find a functional compressor from an original equipment manufacturer, and an air-conditioning shop with some R-22. That still will be costly, but probably doable.
You also might try posting something in the FMCA.com Forums or in a Winnebago-specific forum in hopes of finding others who have already solved this problem.
SNOW CHAINS
My son has a friend who sold RVs and has experience putting chains on their tires for snowy conditions. He said on dual wheels, chains are needed only on the outside rear tires. Is that true? The reasoning is that if they are installed on both the inside and outside tires, it is easy for the two sets of chains to get tangled and cause a problem.
JEFFREY ALLEN, F475207
San Rafael, California
“Triple rail” chain sets should be used in dual-wheel applications. Such sets have three chains around the sidewall area of the tires — one outside, one between the two tires, and one on the inside of the inner tire. The cross chains provide the traction. It is very important that the chains are in good condition and are the correct size for the tires, or damage to the tires or the RV is possible.
Roger Marble, a retired tire design and quality engineer and a member of FMCA’s Technical Advisory Committee, has posted information about “triple rail” chain sets and other chain options on FMCA’s Forums. Go to http://community.fmca.com/topic/12027-chains-for-dual-tire-application/.
NOISY SUSPENSION
I have a 2013 Foretravel Nimbus motorhome with a Reyco Granning independent front suspension. The suspension has made awful noises since day one. Several repairs have not cured the problem. Foretravel says it’s normal, and Reyco has given up. Two mechanics retorqued the upper control-arm bolts, but that provided only temporary success. The last mechanic said the sway bar is the problem. The noise can be heard simply by deflating and/or inflating the front air bags while the coach is stationary. And on the road, every movement of the suspension is a symphony! It is very stressful driving this motorhome.
JIM MNOIAN, F174129
Arcadia, California
If you feel the problem is in the sway bar, the easiest way to isolate it is to remove the sway bar and then go for a short drive or test it with the air bags. Should the sound be gone, the problem is the sway bar. If the sound is still there, it’s not the sway bar and you’ll have to continue trying to isolate it.
Another suggestion: Visit an RV shop that specializes in suspensions, such as Henderson’s Line-Up, Brake & RV at 417 S.W. Henderson Lane, Grants Pass, Oregon (www.hendersonslineup.com; 541-479-2882). The technicians should be able to quickly find and cure your problem.
SLOW-DRAINING SINK
My husband and I purchased a 45-foot Tiffin Allegro Bus diesel pusher in November 2015; it is a 2016 model. The kitchen sink drains very slowly. In November 2016, technicians at the Red Bay, Alabama, factory replaced a filter on the kitchen sink drain because it was almost completely plugged. I thought it was a bad design and knew it was a matter of time before I would need a replacement. Have you heard of similar complaints from other owners with the same motorhome?
FRAN GARROCK, F433052
Rapid City, Michigan
Most motorhomes are not equipped with a filter on the sink drain. As in your home, most sinks simply rely on a U-shaped trap. I believe your Allegro has the filter to keep bits of food out of your gray-water tank, which could result in an offensive odor when they decay. If you’re not worried about an odor, you could have the filter removed. But first, check with Tiffin’s technical support division to make sure that will not cause any unforeseen problems. Deodorizers for the gray-water tank are available.