Dramatic sights, Border Patrol agents, and the Mexican army make for a memorable trip.
By Steve Thomas, F453140
August 2018
Until you drive across Texas, you may not appreciate the state’s size and diverse scenery. My wife, Lisa, and I had that opportunity last November when longtime FMCA member Suzanne Whitney organized a trip across the Lone Star State. In four RVs, we journeyed 832 miles from our homes in the piney woods of East Texas to the West Texas desert town of Presidio, on the Mexico border.
We drove west on Interstate 10, turned south at Fort Stockton, and headed to Marathon, a small jewel of a town. It is a gateway to Big Bend National Park and home to the famous Gage Hotel, where we enjoyed outstanding service and food at the 12 Gage Restaurant.
After spending the night at the Marathon Motel and RV Park, we continued driving west to Marfa, an arts community and home of the mysterious glowing orbs known as the “Marfa Lights.” In Marfa, we turned south and drove for an hour to our final destination, Loma Paloma Golf Course & RV Park in Presidio.
Donna, the park host, invited us to afternoon cocktails at The Lizard, which consists of chairs and picnic tables shaded by a white cloth cover. It’s where park guests gather every day, and indeed, it was a great place to meet new friends and gain local knowledge.
We felt adventurous and paid a cab driver to take us across the border to the Mexican town of Ojinaga. (He first verified that we had our passports.) We discovered it was Pancho Villa Day, which meant a huge parade and members of the Mexican army out in force with tan scarves covering their faces and machine guns hanging from their necks. We strolled around the town square, ate a nice lunch at Los Comales Steak House, and were thankful when we returned to our side of the border via another cab ride.
The next day, on a sight-seeing drive back to Marfa, our group rode in a Jeep and a pickup truck on a less-traveled gravel road through the desert and mountains. The rugged scenery was breathtaking.
Near Marfa, we were pulled over by two U.S. Border Patrol agents, each in their own vehicle. With their hands just over their holstered guns, one approached the driver’s side of the pickup while the other covered him from behind our vehicle. When the agent saw that we were just curious tourists, he flashed a look of relief. It was an oh-my-gosh moment for us.
Before leaving for home, we drove the two-lane border road that runs next to the Rio Grande to Lajitas. The road traverses what locals refer to as “The Hill,” a twisting, 15 percent grade with a pull-off at the top where travelers can cool their engines and/or nerves and take in the view of Mexico and Texas. I decided I would not attempt to take our motorhome, nicknamed The Escape Pod, over that hill.
In Lajitas, fine stores and restaurants are just across the street from Maverick Ranch RV Park. It is a good place to stay when exploring Big Bend National Park.
We loved the adventure and rugged beauty of our eight-day trip.