Starter Solutions
Q: I had the same problem described in the “Triton Starter Problems” letter that was published in the February 2006 issue of FMC (page 20). I had a 2000 model F-53 chassis with a 22,000-pound gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). I would hit the key sometimes three or four times before the engine would actually crank over. As a mechanic by trade, I dug into the issue myself. What I ended up finding was a broken wire in the steering column; I’m guessing it might have been caused by the tilt wheel mechanism. I fixed the wire and, voila! No more problems.
I have since fixed another three or four coaches of the same make and vintage with exactly the same symptoms. Sort of tells you something, huh? I hope this helps.
Tom Henry, F358105
Boyertown, Pennsylvania
Q: I was just reading the February 2006 “Tech Talk” column and saw two letters about Triton starting problems. I experienced this problem last year, sometimes taking up to 60 tries to start the engine as the problem got progressively worse. I had taken my motorhome to battery- and electrical-repair shops, but they were unable to find the problem. I finally took the coach to Fred’s RV in Sandy, Oregon. Through the efforts of a diligent technician, they found that the relay on the fire wall (between the key switch and the solenoid) was defective and operating intermittently. Once it was replaced, it worked great.
Please pass this info on.
James Nice, F224233
Sandy, Oregon
Q: I have had the same starting problem with my Ford Triton V-10. After many hours of troubleshooting, I ruled out everything but the ignition switch. Upon looking at the packaging of the ignition switch in the steering column, I decided this wasn’t a job for me. My fix was to run a fused (10-amp) 12-gauge wire from the positive side of the battery to a horn button that I installed in the dash and then down to the positive side of the starter solenoid. Now I simply turn the ignition switch to “on” and push the button, and it starts every time. This is a temporary fix, because I realize that the important safety function of the neutral start has now been bypassed.
John W. Bode, F65938
Saugerties, New York
Q: I was surprised to read about the Ford starter problem described in the “Tech Talk” column. I thought that by now everyone knew about Ford’s ignition problem. In 1999 I purchased a 1997 36-foot Bounder with a Ford 460 engine. After driving it cross-country twice, I also had ignition problems exactly as described in the column. Being somewhat of a handyman, I spent some time trying to remove the ignition from the steering column. After getting it out “” quite simple now that I know how “” I very carefully marked every wire and then went to the nearest auto parts store, expecting to strike out. Once I showed the clerk the old ignition and told him it was in a motorhome, he immediately asked, “Is it on a Ford chassis?” Two minutes later he put the right part on the counter, explaining that they keep it in stock, because it goes bad a lot.
Tom Beausoleil, F266837
FMCA Mail Forwarding
Q: I own a 1995 Bounder with a Ford 460 engine and I had the same starter problem as referenced in the February 2006 “Tech Talk” column. I talked to Ford service and got the same advice about installing a new starter, a new ignition switch, a new grounding wire, etc. I replaced a lot of these parts and the problem was still there. Then one day the engine would not start at all. A fellow FMCA member found another solenoid on the driver’s-side fire wall. We replaced it, and the problem was solved. Yes, there is one solenoid on the starter, which I had replaced earlier, and another one on the fire wall.
Ken Kusters, F192766
Racine, Wisconsin
Q: I also had problems with my V-10. It would start fine and the next time it would be completely dead. I suggest that anyone with a similar problem try this. If your RV is completely dead when you try to start it, make sure that the positive cables to the solenoid and starter are tight. My solenoid was loose from the frame and was shorting out, causing the engine not to start. If you hear a clicking noise when you try to start the motorhome, your starter is bad. It likely has a bad spot on the armature and needs to be replaced. If it isn’t replaced, eventually it won’t start the engine at all.
Bob Petrovic, F344669
Cedar Hill, Missouri
A: Thanks to all for sharing this information. That’s one of the advantages of FMCA “” members helping members.
Kwikee Step
Q: I have a 1979 Holiday Rambler Imperial that has a Kwikee electric step. One of the motors does not operate when the door opens or closes, even though tests of the motor indicate it is okay. I had this problem before and had the control repaired. A diode was burned out. I could have it repaired again, but at $100 a pop, I don’t think it is worth it. The company does not make this control anymore. I know other people have had their step converted to a simple up and down switch, but I cannot find anyone who knows how to do this. Would you know where I can get this information?
Robert Ruthven, F309892
Navan, Ontario, Canada
A: If both step motors are operating okay, it is possible to rewire the step unit so as to control the step operation with a 12-volt, six-terminal reversing solenoid, which was recently released by the Cole Hersee Company, Boston, Massachusetts. This solenoid (part number 24450) is available through many major auto electric suppliers nationwide. My source is J&N Auto Electric Supply, Cincinnati, Ohio; www.jnelectric.com; (800) 366-7100.