Sodden Slideout Situation
Dear RV Doctor:
We purchased a 2004 motorhome three months ago. From the moment we got it, the slideout has leaked. It has leaked so badly that the wood trim around the interior of the slideout has all been removed because of mold, and the laminate on the dinette table is buckled. My husband tried to put some sealant on the top of the slideout, but it did not work. This is the first RV we have owned with a slideout, and we are just beside ourselves. I am pregnant and my daughter is 4. The last thing we need is mold around us.
Do you have any suggestions on how to fix the slideout and where we would go to get replacement trim? We tried the dealership that we purchased it from that claimed to have performed a “rigorous leak detection test before release to a buyer,” but we were told it just happens. So any advice on where we would start would be great! We just want to enjoy RVing.
Chris Adam, Georgetown, Massachusetts
I’m so sorry to hear about your slideout leak. Water intrusion is indeed the number one maintenance consideration with any motorhome and, as you’ve found out, can be quite difficult to rectify.
Begin by locating the actual entrance point of the water. Assuming the leak is at the slideout and not coming from a point above it, there are four possible locations along the room. The first thing would be to check the integrity of the slideout seals on both sides and on the top and the bottom of the slideout. Remember, it must remain leak-free in two positions — with the room retracted and extended. It’s quite possible that it’s time to replace all the seals on the slideout. Another procedure is to have the slideout mechanism checked for proper operation. Ensure that the slideout moves in and out evenly without “crab-walking” its way in or out.
It’s paramount that a certified RV service technician inspect and rectify the leak as quickly as possible. Unattended, the leak will only get worse, and more structural damage is likely. I wish I had better news, but barring any structural deficiencies in the room itself, it’s my opinion that the seals have failed and that they need to be replaced.
Two Into One
Dear RV Doctor:
I need to replace the fabric on my 18-foot awning. All of the aftermarket replacements I find are two pieces: a main awning and a valance. I am having trouble visualizing how the two are joined together in the single slot on the roller tube. Please advise as to how this is done.
Ron Tremblay, Waterford, Michigan
Many awning roller tubes (depending on brand and vintage) have two or three individual slots: one for the canopy, another one for the valance, and possibly a third slot in order to incorporate a screen room panel. If your roller tube has only a single slot, it will not be possible to include the valance. That being said, I have seen replacement canopies with a “built-in” valance. A single piece of the plastic gimp was sewn into a seam between the main canopy and the valance. This allows the single gimp to utilize a single-slot roller tube. You may have to order a replacement directly from the manufacturer or one of their dealers rather than utilizing an aftermarket product.
Carpet Or Vinyl?
Dear RV Doctor:
We are considering replacing the carpeting in our motorhome with carpet or vinyl. Should we see an RV service dealer or a carpet store?
Carole Boyce, F344038, Kalamazoo, Michigan
Much depends on whether you have slideouts in the motorhome. With today’s proliferation of them, I’m going to assume you do. With that in mind, it would be best to contact an RV outfitting (decorating) company. Quite a few are located throughout the country. These differ from a regular RV dealership or stand-alone service center in that they specialize in updating, upgrading, and redecorating primarily the interiors of coaches.
FMCA has several commercial members and advertisers who offer such services. Check the RV Marketplace online at FMCA.com or in the January and June issues of FMC magazine. You also could do an Internet search using the keywords “RV Outfitter,” “RV Decorator,” “RV Renovations,”or “RV Upgrades” in your area.
Slideouts pose the biggest problem for any service shop or RV decorator. Some rooms simply slide above the main coach flooring while others are flush with the finished flooring when extended. The shop must have experience with partial removal (at the very least) of the slideout room in order to get the finished flooring properly attached under the leading edge of the slideout room. To do this requires expertise not usually found in a “typical” service shop. However, it’s entirely possible your local motorhome dealer has that capacity. Most assuredly, a retail carpet store will not.
You should first learn exactly how your coach manufacturer installed the existing flooring and see whether that would present a problem for any shop to remove and install a new flooring surface. Whether you choose carpet or vinyl, it probably will have to be tucked under the slide room and secured properly.
I’ve received quite a few e-mails from readers who have experienced problems with the slideout catching on the edge of the new flooring and damaging it. Most shops familiar with slideout removal and adjustments will have the tooling necessary to fully or partially remove the room, or at least tip it back somewhat to create enough space for the carpet/vinyl installer to get in there to attach the raw edge of the new flooring correctly. I encourage you to take some photos of the process, if possible; it would make a good article!
Winterizing Woes
Dear RV Doctor:
Winterizing my motorhome is a joke. There are no bypasses, and to reach the pump you have to crawl over the bed to access it. There’s hardly room to add a winterizing kit, and there are no valves to bypass the hot water tank. To access the back of the water heater, you have to get on your knees and go under a closet just to see anything! I sent an e-mail to the manufacturer to redesign this and to give them a general slap on the hand for having a terrible product, mechanical-wise. Older adults such as myself should not have to crawl on our knees to get to things. I also don’t want to buy 10 gallons of RV antifreeze. Do you have suggestions on an easy fix? I asked the manufacturer to go out on the plant floor and look over a model and tell me what one of them would do. They sent me a schematic, which is great, but what to do?
Joe Zedick, Buffalo, New York
Welcome to an often-overlooked design flaw of RV manufacturing. I once wrote an article about “technically choosing” an RV, and one of the precepts was to ascertain how easy it would be to gain access to certain components. We look at floor plans, colors, amenities, etc., and some manufacturers rarely consider the owner’s access concerns. Not all, mind you, but some.
Most water heaters will indeed be installed on the floor of the coach, so chances are, it will still take getting on your knees to switch the bypass valves. Aftermarket bypass kits are readily available for water heaters. I recommend the type that utilizes brass valves rather than plastic. To me, they hold up better in the long run. A certified RV technician should also be able to modify the fresh water line between the tank and the pump and make it easier to pump in the antifreeze. Keep in mind, you can simply pour a couple gallons of RV antifreeze directly into the fresh water tank and accomplish the same thing. An astute RV tech also can retrofit the plumbing bypass equipment using electrically operated solenoid valves. This might prove to be a bit costly, but it is an option.
I encourage you to keep suggesting to manufacturers how to improve their products. Though they often may not have the answers you’re looking for at the moment, they will, at least, listen to what you have to say.
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