Maintaining Towable’s Battery
In the August 2011 “Tech Talk” column there was a letter about Honda CR-V battery problems (page 22). I also use a 2009 CR-V as my towed vehicle and had the same problem with the battery dying while it was being towed. I recently went to a local trailer hookup and welding company and found a wonderful solution. They introduced me to the Tow Daddy AUTOFuse (888-986-9323; www.towdaddy.com).
Although this particular kit was specifically made for the Honda CR-V, the company has kits for other vehicles as well. The kit for the CR-V has two functions. First, it eliminates the need to remove fuse number 34, which is extremely hard to take out and even harder to replace. Second, it provides a trickle charge for the CR-V’s battery without running another wire from the motorhome. It works beautifully. I have the four-pin connection between the motorhome and CR-V and didn’t touch that wiring. I paid to have the device installed, even though the package said the installation was not complicated. Good move on my part, as it took the technician 30 minutes to replace fuse 34 with the new device. Now I just hook up the same cables and turn on the drive lights. That disconnects the circuit that used fuse 34. When I checked the electric, I found that it was charging the CR-V battery at 12.5 volts. The total cost for the product and installation was $150 and well worth it.
I know many people who have a CR-V towed vehicle, and now there’s a solution for what most of them complain about.
John Haley, F261821
Federal Way, Washington
Thanks, John. Perhaps this will help other members who own a CR-V and have struggled with the same battery and fuse removal problems. It should be mentioned that the device charges the towed vehicle battery only when the motorhome lights are on and electricity is being provided for the towed vehicle taillight circuit.
Batteries
I have a 2004 Holiday Rambler diesel with air brakes. All the towed vehicle lights are wired from the motorhome except the brake lights, which operate from a Roadmaster 9000 air cylinder attached to the towed vehicle’s brake pedal by an air line from the motorhome. When the motorhome brakes are applied, this activates the air cylinder and the brake lights come on. A light on the dash of the motorhome lets me know the towed vehicle’s brakes are working.
The problem is, even on a short trip, the towed vehicle’s battery goes dead. Until now I have always towed a Jeep 4×4 with no problem. I now tow a 2010 Dodge Dakota 4×4. I wired it the same way as the Jeep. Can you tell me why the Dakota’s battery goes dead just using the brake lights? The Jeep never did. I can install a battery disconnect on the vehicle and wire the brake lights from the motorhome, but I would lose the use of the monitor light from the towable. Also, when I reset the battery disconnect, I will have to reset the radio and any other unit that runs by this battery.
George Cotton, F223909
Columbus, Georgia
Around the 2007 model year “” depending on model and division “” Chrysler eliminated the “unlock” position on the ignition switch. This position unlocked the steering wheel but didn’t turn anything on inside the vehicle. With this position eliminated, the ignition is now in the “run” position, which turns on several electrical connections. These are what are drawing down your towed vehicle’s battery.
Have you read the “Recreational Towing” section of your owner’s manual? It should tell you how to prep the Dakota for towing. If you don’t wish to pull a fuse or disconnect the battery, you can route a “hot” line with a relay triggered by an ignition hot source from the motorhome to the Dakota’s battery to keep it charged (positive to positive, with a 20-amp or 30-amp fuse at each end). Make sure the line is fused at both ends, because it’s attached to a battery at both ends. It would go through your towing lights connector.
House Battery
I have a 2004 Jayco 26SS on a 2003 Ford E-450 chassis. My problem is that it is difficult to check the water level on the back three cells of the house battery. I was thinking about getting an AGM battery, but service managers have told me that a special converter/battery charger is needed. My motorhome currently has an IOTA-DLS 45 power converter/battery charger. I would like to know if the converter/charger can do the job.
David A. Dematte, F82812
Vineland, New Jersey
I understand your frustration with trying to reach the battery. My motorhome is equipped with four house batteries, and it’s a real struggle to keep the rearmost battery full of water (it involves a portable light and a mirror). AGM batteries are more expensive, and all house batteries should be replaced at the same time. In your case, since you have only the one house battery, this isn’t an issue, but it could become a problem in the future should you decide to add to your battery bank. One option is to look into replacing the battery with a wet-cell maintenance-free battery. Basically, the price of this type of battery falls between a standard wet-cell and an AGM, and it has the advantages of each.
A call also was made to the Lifeline Batteries office (800-527-3224), and we were told that chargers for wet-cell batteries will work very well with AGM batteries. The bulk charge rate for wet-cell is just a little lower than AGM, but the float rate is almost the same. You would be well advised to call Lifeline and discuss this with one of their technicians.
Rubber Bubble
We have a 2007 Fleetwood Jamboree Type C motorhome. While inspecting the roof, I discovered a bubble near the air conditioner that’s approximately 1 foot by 2 feet in size, with the bubble maybe 1/2-inch above the surface. The roof appears to be structurally sound under the bubble, so I suspect a leak from the air conditioner has caused it. It looks like the gaskets may have leaked, but the leak could not have been there long, because I do check the roof a couple of times a year. Is my only option a new roof, or can it be repaired by taking out a piece, checking underneath, and redoing that portion?
Bob Wyllie, F381374
Sarasota, Florida
The bubble could be the result of restricted airflow from the air conditioner through the roof opening. Could there be an airflow shutoff valve or a diverter plate on the underside of the RV’s roof that might create backpressure if it is not in the open position? Consider this: If the inner edges of this laminated roof opening were not sealed (or boxed in) with either wood or metal, this could provide a path for air pressure to penetrate the laminations or layers of the roof and possibly raise the upper layer of the roof to make a bubble.
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