Battery Schematics
We are trying to find a schematic for installing the new batteries we bought for our motorhome. We have a 2003 39-foot Safari Sahara. I have searched the Internet, and we have searched what books we have in the motorhome. We are replacing all six 12-volt-DC batteries — two chassis and four house. I removed the old batteries to take to the dealer where we bought the new batteries, but now I am unsure about connecting the new batteries. We are looking for a diagram or, better still, a photo of where the cables go.
James M. Stroud, F396722
Selkirk, New York
Since you are using all 12-volt-DC batteries, you will hook them up in parallel. An explanation and diagram can be found in Gary Bunzer’s “The Balance Of Power” story that ran in the January 2012 issue of Family Motor Coaching (page 46). A text and a PDF version of the story can be found in the Back Issues section at www.fmcmagazine.com. Here’s a quick description about how to make this work.
Arrange the batteries to be wired in parallel so that a jumper cable connects each battery in succession (positives to positives, negatives to negatives). To achieve a balanced amperage flow, connect the vehicle’s positive cable to the first battery in the line, and the vehicle’s negative cable to the last battery in the arrangement. This will keep the amperage draw fairly well balanced between all of the batteries. There are several other wiring possibilities that are mentioned in “The Balance Of Power” story, but the method mentioned above is an easy and efficient configuration.
Legal License
I’m planning to carry bikes on a hitch-mounted rack. The bikes will block the motorhome’s license plate. Is it legal to block the license plate? I have seen many RVs and cars with racks that block the plates, but I don’t believe this is legal. Thanks for any suggestion you can provide.
Bill Rowse, F415484
Huntersville, North Carolina
Each state’s motor vehicle or highway patrol department has its own regulations concerning the visibility of the rear license plate. (For specifics, consult the AAA Digest of Motor Laws at www.drivinglaws.aaa.com/laws/plate-disbursement). Having said that, I’m sure you’re right — the plate should be plainly visible. The easiest way to display the rear plate while the bikes are being carried is in a separate license plate holder (one with a light). Any auto parts store will have several types from which you can choose. Some even have magnetic attachments, or you can use a piece of wire or a bungee cord to attach the plate to one of the bikes or the carrier.
Refrigerator Issues
The refrigerator in our Type A motorhome is always plugged in to shore power at home, just to keep things cool. We were getting ready for a weekend getaway, weather permitting, when my wife noticed that the temperature inside the refrigerator was at 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The freezer was cold (all frozen). The temperature was set on #8. I put it on #9, the coldest setting, last night. This morning, the temperature was between 50 and 60 degrees. I switched it over to propane this morning to see whether there would be any changes.
In addition, are there any options for Norcold refrigerator door seal repair/replacement versus buying completely new doors?
I also noticed what looks like pine pollen on the cooling unit. Is that a sign of a bad unit?
Dean and Donna Tate, F282087
Dothan, Alabama
Unfortunately, the pine pollen substance you found on the cooling unit is most likely the antioxidant sodium chromate, which would indicate that the cooling unit has developed a leak and will need to be replaced.
When a cooling unit begins to lose efficiency, either from loss of hydrogen or ammonia or because of circulation blockage, it will react the same whether it is powered by electric or propane. The temperature in the cooling section will begin to elevate, yet the freezer compartment typically remains cold. This is because the cooling unit is not distilling enough ammonia to satisfy both the freezer and the cooler. The cure would be to replace the cooling unit.
If, however, the refrigerator loses cooling only on one heat mode, this would indicate that the cooling unit is okay. Then the cure would be to address the cause of the heat mode problem: replace the electric heating element, or service the gas burner.
Make sure the back of the refrigerator is clean and clear of dust, spiderwebs, etc. Also, make sure the vent chimney isn’t obstructed; there isn’t a bird’s nest in the roof vent; there are no giant insect nests on the absorber coils, etc.
As far as the door seals are concerned, the biggest problem with installing new door seals is that they take two days to install. The doors must be removed from the refrigerator and left to sit in a horizontal position for 24 hours for the adhesive to cure. Once they are reinstalled on the refrigerator, they must sit for another 24 hours to allow the vinyl to develop a “memory.” If there are any companies that currently replace door seals, I am not aware of them. Few people made the repair correctly, and there were many complaints. Small repairs can be made on door seals with a vinyl repair kit intended for child swimming pools.
Once you have the refrigerator back on an even keel, you might consider adding a small solar-powered fan behind the refrigerator to increase air circulation around the cooling elements of the refrigerator. This fan increases evaporation efficiency at higher ambient temperatures.
Windshield Woes
This is in reference to Pete Hinton’s “Perhaps Not A DIY Project?” letter in the July 2013 “House Calls” column (page 20) regarding his windshield leak. I have a Type A motorhome and had a windshield leak. I removed the inner molding and determined that the leak came from the top of the windshield. I took it to the shop twice and had it sealed, but the repairs did not stop the leak. Upon further investigation, it was found that the seal on the running light above the windshield was leaking. The running lights were sealed and the leak was fixed. They sealed the lights with silicone, because they did not have replacement gaskets. Hope this suggestion helps.
Leigh K. Lydecker Jr., F124552
Oakland, New Jersey
This is a follow-up to Pete Hinton’s windshield leak letter in the July 2013 issue of Family Motor Coaching. I had the same problem with a windshield leak on my 2004 Winnebago Adventurer. The leak was caused by rust that resulted when water sat in a dip in the glue used to attach the windshield to the frame. I had one windshield replacement, and when the other side began to leak, I pulled back the rubber trim strip on top of the windshield and filled the gap between the glass and frame with windshield sealer, which you can get at any auto parts store. Fill the void above the windshield with sealer. I haven’t had a problem since.
Mike Donahue, F387927
Dubuque, Iowa
Thank you for sharing your experiences in an effort to help a fellow motorhome owner.
Stabilizing Influence
I’ve read for years that you should regularly start your generator and put a load on it once a month or so. Why? Are Onan generators that touchy? I’m on a farm and have two Generac generators for backup power if the electricity fails. Once a year I start them up, run them for about an hour with a fan for a load factor, change the oil, and add fresh gas. Both generators are more than 10 years old and never fail to start. Maybe I should switch my Onan out for a Generac, since mine have proven to be reliable without monthly exercise. I would appreciate your comments.
Gary Lewis, F340150
Brooklyn, Wisconsin
Onan includes information in its owners manuals that describes how to exercise a generator that is used infrequently and the reasons why it should be done. Here is an example from the owners manual for an Onan RV QG 2800 generator.
“Exercise the generator set approximately 45-60 minutes each month if use is infrequent. Run the genset at approximately 1/2 rated power. See LOADING THE GENSET. A single two-hour exercise period is better than several shorter periods.
“Exercising a genset drives off moisture, re-lubricates the engine, replaces stale fuel in fuel lines and carburetor, and removes oxides from electrical contacts and generator slip rings. The result is better starting, more reliable operation, and longer engine life.”
If the generator is to be put into storage for more than 120 days, Onan includes information about how to prepare the generator, including filling the fuel tank with fresh fuel and adding a fuel preservative.
The owners manual for a Generac generator (XP Series) includes the following recommendation.
“The generator should be started at least once every 30 days and be allowed to run at least 30 minutes. If this cannot be done and the unit must be stored for more than 30 days, use the following information as a guide to prepare it for storage.”
The owners manual goes on to provide information about long-term storage, which includes the use of a fuel stabilizer if it is not possible to empty the fuel tank, or to empty the fuel, change the oil, and pour oil into the spark plug holes to lubricate the piston rings and cylinder.
Essentially, the advice is the same from both companies: Exercise the generator at least once a month or use the long-term storage procedures to make sure it’s ready to go the next time it’s needed.
Both manuals do suggest using a fuel stabilizer or preservative to help prevent the fuel from deteriorating, which can lead to fuel system corrosion, gum formation, and varnish-like deposits that can result in hard starting and rough operation. A fuel stabilizer such as Sta-Bil will help keep the fuel in your generator fresh and assure that the generator will start cleanly after several weeks — or months — of non-use. A fogging oil also can be used to coat internal engine parts to prevent corrosion.
Be sure to check your owners manual for specific instructions from the manufacturer.