A Pressurizing Alternative?
Dear RV Doctor:
I watched your video about the SealTech device used to determine the location of possible water leaks in a motorhome (www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOQ-cJWGY-o). Instead of paying for this service, couldn’t one effectively accomplish the same test with the roof vents in the motorhome? As an example, I have three powered vents in my motorhome, two of which are reversible. One is in the galley area and one is in the rear bedroom of my 40-foot diesel pusher. If I put both fans on high, pushing air into the coach, would I be able to create enough pressure to use the soapy solution on the outside of the motorhome, similar to what I saw in the video? Or must one use the SealTech system in order to create enough air pressure for soap bubbles to form on the outside of the motorhome? I’d appreciate your input on this subject.
Steve
Seattle, Washington
You nailed it, Steve; it takes more pressure (and volume) of moving air than what your two powered vents could produce. The SealTech 430R has adjustments and settings that take into consideration the size and volume of the interior of the motorhome, which allows it to produce just the right amount of forced air to pressurize the interior enough to inflate bubbles around the air leaks. For my money, I’d locate a facility that offers the SealTech service and have them do it correctly. Not a bad thought, though.
Perhaps Not A DIY Project?
Dear RV Doctor:
As you often state, we RVers are always shocked, surprised, and pleased when we fix something ourselves. So far, I’ve cleaned out the water heater and shower drains, replaced a faulty sound system, and much more. My biggest project, now complete, was replacing the awning fabric on the slideouts of my 2002 Adventurer. The next project I want to tackle is a leak in the windshield. It’s not just from condensation; water really pours through it when it rains. I had this particular pane replaced at the Winnebago Industries factory about three years after purchasing the motorhome new. On the way to the factory, a rock cracked the glass and it ran the full length. Now, that particular pane is leaking again. My question concerns the black trim around the glass outside. Can it just be pulled off, the leak located and sealed, and then the trim reinstalled? Once I find the hole in the sealant, what sealant would you recommend that I use?
Pete Hinton
Olympia, Washington
Sealing windshields has always been a hit-or-miss proposition. The physical dynamics at work with floating or nonfloating pieces of glass glued to a flexible fiberglass front cap, and how all that is secured, really makes it difficult to state, “Squirt some silicone here and all your windshield leaks will be repaired.” You might apply a sealant to temporarily stop the leak, but in some cases, the glass will likely have to be removed and reinstalled to eliminate the leak with certainty.
I wouldn’t recommend that a do-it-yourselfer attempt a complete windshield replacement. Preparation and proper sealing are paramount, and I’d trust that only to a professional shop. Plus, handling large sections of glass should be left to technicians who do that sort of thing every day. You can watch a windshield replacement video that I shot with John Tokatly of RV Glass Solutions, with facilities in Coburg, Oregon, and Phoenix, Arizona, and several of his technicians, by visiting www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkzkL-w1Ntc. Physically, you may be able to do the work yourself, but personally I would have a professional glass technician do this type of project. There’s just too much at risk to ensure a perfect fit and a leakproof installation.
Time For New Cold Air Providers?
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a 1997 Holiday Rambler with possible air conditioner problems. Both rooftop air-conditioning units run very poorly. Even when placed on the high setting, they do not blow cold air. However, the house battery is also very old. Would that cause a problem with the air conditioners?
Manny
Palm City, Florida
I’m assuming you’ve cleaned and/or replaced the return air filters associated with those air conditioners. With air conditioners that old, it’s quite possible the refrigerant has leaked or been diminished enough to render the rooftop units ineffective. It may be possible to evacuate and recharge those units, but it might be cost-prohibitive, especially in light of the newer, more efficient air-conditioning units available today. Look for a local RV service shop that offers air conditioner reconditioning and recharging and have them give you an estimate. That would be the best way to choose your course of action. With new air conditioners, you will gain better technology and a warranty. Plus, it will take less time to replace both units than to evacuate, capture the refrigerant, and recharge them.
The house battery will have no effect on air conditioner operation, except, perhaps, to power the thermostat and control board (depending on brand and model). Rooftop air conditioner compressors are powered with 120-volt-AC electric only. I wish I had better news, but my suggestion is that it may be time to consider new units. You certainly won’t be disappointed with the new technology in RV air conditioners.
Heating Duct Design Flaw?
I have a 1992 Type A motorhome, and I have several heat vents in the floor in the rear of the unit that work well. There are only two in the front — one in the kitchen and one behind the driver’s seat — and they barely have any airflow. Is the space under the floor one large duct? Might I have a leak? I was able to run a fish tape from the kitchen vent to the front vent. Can I cut more vents in the floor? Because of the age of my motorhome, the manufacturer would not help.
Bill Burek
Elizabeth, Colorado
I’m not sure about your motorhome, but through the years, I’ve seen some poorly designed ductwork in RVs. It’s possible the two duct outlets up front are the farthest from the furnace manifold. The heated air is distributed through ducting, not the entire subfloor area. If you happen to feel “hot spots” on the floor between ducts, it’s possible that a connection came loose, but this is unlikely. My guess is that the front duct outlets are simply the longest runs from the furnace and, therefore, the heated air escapes through the closer registers before it even reaches those in the front. One solution might be to install adjustable registers in the areas where there is plenty of hot air coming out. Partially or fully closing off those ducts may force the air farther forward. Some ducted systems I’ve inspected were built with “dead space” corners, blunt turns and twists, crushed tubing, etc., rendering them useless. Also, be sure the ducting tubes have not been crushed by anything between point A and point B. I’ve also seen extra-long tube ducting installed and twisting around under the floor when a shorter piece would have sufficed. Check to be sure that the tubes to the front ducts aren’t too long for the run. Other than that, an in-person inspection by a certified RV service technician may be required to determine whether other problems exist.
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