Anode Rod Insulation
Dear RV Doctor:
I am writing in regard to the “Finicky Fittings” question that appeared in the April 2013 issue (page 26) about the connection of the anode rod to a steel water heater tank. To work effectively, doesn’t the rod need to have electrical conductivity with the tank? Some owners use Teflon tape or various products to isolate the rod, making it easier to replace. While commendable, shouldn’t you test the connection with an ohmmeter to ensure that conductivity exists between the rod and the tank? Does the Suburban owners manual address this?
William McCleish, F374709
Manhattan Beach, California
You are correct. In order for the anode rod to be effective, it must be connected “electrically” to the tank of the water heater. This would be something I would point out in an extended response to a question during a live presentation or in a dedicated chapter in a book, but given the space limitations of the printed column, I decided not to address it. It’s a moot point anyway, since it would be quite rare for RectorSeal T Plus 2 to cause any type of insulating issues for anode rods. When used correctly, even Teflon tape doesn’t interfere with the electrical bonding that occurs when the anode rod is screwed into the tank. Teflon acts primarily as a lubricant that allows the threaded rod to be more easily tightened to a firmer mating seal. I doubt it would ever be considered for filling a “void” in a threaded connection. I’m not sure whether Suburban addresses this in the technical manual, but a simple resistance measurement (even a simpler continuity test) would eliminate any concern. Of all the anodes I’ve replaced in my lifetime while working in the RV and mobile home industries, I’ve never had an anode become electrically isolated from the tank because of the sealant used. That said, I have measured a few just to be sure.
Speaking of Teflon tape, it is okay to use it for plumbing connections as long as the correct type is applied. The inexpensive plain white Teflon tape, available at most home improvement stores, is not the best for RV plumbing fittings. It’s inexpensive for a reason. It is better to use the pink-colored Teflon tape, which has a higher density and can withstand the rigors of hot water and higher pressures better than the thin white tape. Yellow-colored Teflon tape is used for combustible gas connections. Honestly, I’ve never had an issue with RectorSeal.
Frosty Fridge Frame
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a four-door refrigerator in my 2010 Winnebago Minnie Winnie motorhome, and the top left door forms ice between the door and the frame part of the freezer compartment. I notified the manufacturer concerning this matter and I was told to have the problem confirmed by a local dealer. The technician placed a corded light inside the freezer compartment and closed the door. With the door closed, you could see light emitting from the outer edges of the door. The manufacturer sent me two new doors and the same problem exists. My question is, can I put a thicker rubber seal on the freezer doors? The refrigerator is now out of warranty and I can’t afford a new one at this time.
Fred Iuliucci, F359248
Cherry Hill, New Jersey
The door seals on the refrigerator apparently are not sealing properly. Ice or frost will form around areas that allow air movement. I do question the validity of the lamp test. The cord for the lamp can distort the seal enough to emit light by itself. Try the same test using a bright flashlight instead of a lamp with a cord attached.
But the question remains: why do the new doors still not seal properly? I’d take a serious look at the way the refrigerator is mounted and secured into its opening within the cabinetry. Perhaps something is not plumb or level and the result is that the refrigerator is racked or twisted. If the refrigerator has installation screws through the faceplate inside the motorhome, try removing those screws temporarily to see whether the refrigerator moves at all. If secured under tension (because of a non-plumb cabinet, for instance), it may relax, and a gap around the perimeter might be evident. If the floor portion that the refrigerator sits on is not square and plumb with the vertical portion of the cabinet, the refrigerator can be twisted as it is secured in place. Next, remove the mounting screws at the back of the refrigerator through the lower exterior vent access panel. See whether the refrigerator can be rocked back and forth or side to side in the opening, thereby confirming something is not correct with the cabinetry.
I don’t know of any way to add to the existing seal. In some cases, the doors can be adjusted or shimmed to allow easier mating of the seal to the refrigerator facing. An in-depth inspection would be necessary to determine whether that’s possible. Most assuredly, the existing seals are not doing the job. See whether you can find a certified or master certified RV service technician in your area who can diagnose the cause of the problem and find a solution.
Broken Latch Lament
Dear RV Doctor:
I need to replace the little cam-type latch on the door to the water heater. It is plastic and has deteriorated and broken. How do I do that?
Joann Nuber
Waterford, Pennsylvania
Those little plastic latches will indeed deteriorate over time. Thank goodness for the aftermarket! Your dealer can order a replacement latch, if it’s not already in stock. Replacement latches are made of metal and should last much longer than the original plastic latch. They are also available online from any number of sources. Just compress the spring and squeeze the brackets and the latch should come right off. Reverse the process to install the new one.
Keep in mind, all plastic components found on motorhomes will oxidize and deteriorate over time. Protectants are available that can slow this deterioration, but almost all plastic pieces eventually will have to be replaced.
Legitimized LEDs
Dear RV Doctor:
We just purchased a new motorhome. Would it be worth changing out the original lights with LEDs? The LEDs are a little expensive but use way less power. Would it be a good investment? We look forward to hearing from you.
Russ Potts
Absolutely! The cost to switch to LEDs will likely pay you back twofold — or more — over time. Better lighting, warmer light, less power consumption, etc., all fall right in line for what is best for a motorhome’s low-voltage DC electrical system. It would not surprise me to see manufacturers switch to all LED lighting, inside and out, in the future.
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