Removing The Toilet
Dear RV Doctor:
I need to take my toilet out to work on it. It’s a Thetford. Can you steer me to where I can find out how to unbolt it, please? The leak is in the inlet connection, or that part where the water first comes in. Your help would be appreciated.
Richard Diller
Via E-Mail
If you have the typical Aqua Magic-style Thetford toilet in your RV, it’s likely the bolts are located at the 11 o’clock and 5 o’clock positions. Picture a clock as you look down on the toilet while facing it.
Depending on the year the toilet was manufactured, the front bolt, at the 5 o’clock position, should be accessible by pressing down on the pedal and reaching in with a wrench to remove the nut from the flange bolt. You’ll actually be able to see it.
The rear nut, at the 11 o’clock position, is a little more difficult to access. You can’t really see it. I’ve used either a flex socket or an offset ratchet wrench to reach in behind the toilet, in the blind, to latch onto the nut to remove it.
Some models also have an access hole in the top of the toilet under the seat. Lift up the seat and you’ll see a round, plastic plug covering the hole if yours is so equipped. It still takes a universal joint, a deep socket, and a very long socket extension to reach through from the top to remove that nut, but it is doable. A lot depends on how much room you have to maneuver behind the toilet. Obviously, be sure to turn off the water supply to the toilet and bleed off the water pressure first.
In the photo above, I’ve removed the flushing mechanism assembly completely, and I’m pointing to the water inlet valve you referenced.
The great thing about Thetford is that individual replacement parts are readily available at most RV service centers, so finding the correct inlet valve should not be a problem. Also, all replacement components come with complete instructions, so be sure to follow them explicitly.
It’s also wise to replace the flange seal (gasket) whenever the toilet is removed. They, too, are readily available. Personally, I prefer the rubber-doughnut type rather than the wax seal. Bench test the new water valve prior to reinstalling the toilet and then simply snug the closet nuts back down onto the closet bolts, and you should be good to go (no pun intended)!
Replacing Compartment Door Locks
Dear RV Doctor:
I saw your video about changing out the locks on a motorhome compartment door to a combination cam lock. Where can I find those? Mine are the typical, one-key-fits-all, cheapo cam locks.
John Palmer
Mill Valley, California
I thought those replacement locks with a three-digit combination were pretty cool myself. Your best bet is probably online. One source I am aware of is Combi-Cam — www.combi-cam.com/RV-Compartment-Locks.htm. For those of you interested in seeing the video John mentioned, type this link into your Web browser: http://goo.gl/4Qhpri.
Revisiting Compartment Door Locks
Dear RV Doctor:
After watching your video regarding the combination door locks, I’m aware most locks come with a “flat” as well as an “offset” cam to hold the door shut. One combination lock that I checked out shows the lock with only a flat cam. Is the flat cam permanently attached to the lock, or can a screw be removed to exchange the different “offset” cams? I would need that offset latch for all of my compartment doors.
Jerry Walsh
Richmond Hill, New York
The combination lock I installed in the video indeed came with both flat-cam and offset-cam latching pieces. A center screw with a lock washer secures it to the assembly. Quality locks usually will come with both, since there’s no telling which supplier provided the compartment doors to the coach builder. I don’t know which one you investigated, but I’ve never seen a replacement lock that did not come with both.
Resurfacing The Storage Space
Dear RV Doctor:
My question is not the typical one you probably get, but I have been reading your stuff for over a year now and have come to value your opinion. Should I invest in a concrete slab at my property to store my new coach while not in use? The cost would be around $5,000 for a pad measuring 16 feet wide and 48 feet 6 inches deep and reinforced with steel bar. Is the cost of this pad a good investment to protect my coach, or am I just wasting my money? That’s a lot of diesel fuel!
Thomas Ferreira
Via E-Mail
Parking/storing your motorhome on concrete is certainly better than on gravel, dirt, or asphalt, in my opinion. In any case, I still would opt for plastic leveling blocks to keep the tires off the concrete. But with a pad, you are assured of a solid, level surface that also will help if you utilize stabilizers or levelers for your RV. Only you can justify its cost, however!