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Family RVing Magazine

Tech Talk: March 2017

March 1, 2017
A/C Drainage

Type C motorhomes have long had the problem of water draining from the rooftop air conditioner onto the sides of the coach, including the windows. Has a solution been developed to drain the water efficiently so that it falls to the ground without touching the coach’s sides?

Dolard LeBlanc, F405159
Goodyear, Arizona

We have a couple suggestions. One is to install RV gutters. One company that sells this product is Essential Products, www.rvgutters.com. Also, RV gutter extensions, which attach to existing gutter spouts, are available online. Or, perhaps surgical tubing or some other kind of clear tubing in the proper size would work. You could connect the tubing to the air conditioner’s condensation drain hose and route it down the side of the coach, out of the way. Use stick-on fasteners to hold it in place.


Awning Repair
Has Family Motor Coaching published articles on repairing awning motors?
Sunny Guest, F442084
Harrisburg, Pennsylvania
We have not. In fact, it’s not recommended that such repairs be done by the coach owner. It’s really a job for three people — one to support the extended roller tube and awning when the arm is detached; another to control the arm after it is taken from the roller tube and awning; and a third person to remove and replace the motor drive assembly. The repairs preferably should be done inside a shop, because a gust of wind could throw the awning support person several feet.

The replacement of the motor drive assembly is simple and straightforward. Just drill out the three rivets, unplug the 12-volt connector, and pull the assembly straight out of the roller tube. Then install the new motor assembly in the roller tube and replace the three rivets; it’s essential that the rivets be the correct length. Such motors will not function well below 12.5 volts; a voltage test should be made before any motor replacement decision.


Local TV
My wife and I bought a 2016 Tiffin Allegro Bus, and we enjoy our new life on the road. It came with a Winegard antenna and was set up for DirecTV. We winter in Yuma, Arizona, and cable is provided in our park, but Spectrum (formerly Time Warner) now requires a converter box on each TV. Our televisions are built into the wall, so we aren’t able to attach the boxes.
I’m not concerned about watching a different show on each TV. Tiffin technicians recommended patching one converter into the main input (located above the passenger seat), but that means it would hang out of the cabinet. With DirecTV and the Winegard setup, we can’t receive local stations, but everything else comes in fine. DirecTV technicians say our round antenna needs to be an oval version to pick up the two correct satellites. I really don’t relish the thought of having to take off the Winegard and go to a pop-up dish unit. I worry about the existing holes leaking, over and above the cost. Apparently DirecTV has a way for us to get either a West Coast or East Coast feed and receive Los Angeles or New York City local stations, but we would get those everywhere we travel. What else can we do?
Duane Byerley, F445620
Keizer, Oregon

I agree with you about the additional holes in your motorhome’s roof. An RV technician might be able to mount something that would not cause any leaks. Or a local DirecTV shop might be able to set you up with a mobile dish and its own stand that connects to your TVs through the cable attachment in your basement. If you haven’t already done so, you might contact Winegard (www.winegard.com; 800-288-8094) and see what options are available.


Alignment
I own a 1974 FMC 2900J motorhome that I bought new. I am in need of an idler arm on the bushings of the front suspension. Do you know where I can get the part?
John Bartley, F11784
High Point, North Carolina

Call Robert Henderson of Henderson’s Line-Up Brake & RV Inc., in Grants Pass, Oregon; (888) 898-3281 or (541) 955-0769; www.hendersonslineup.com. If Robert doesn’t have the parts you need, I’m sure he can direct you elsewhere. You might also contact the FMC Motor Coach Owners Club chapter of FMCA (www.fmcowners.com) and see whether any chapter members have suggestions for obtaining parts for these classic coaches. In fact, you might find it beneficial to join the chapter.


Inverter Install
How can I install a 12-volt-DC-to-120-volt-AC inverter in my 2005 Winnebago Adventurer 35A to provide power to my Norcold 12-cubic-foot refrigerator while traveling only? I use shore power or generator power while camping. In the future, I may install a residential-style refrigerator (rated for 10 amps).
Lew Autry, F453505
Hopkins, South Carolina
First, find a location for the inverter. It should be in a dry, ventilated area as close to the batteries as is practical. A modified sine wave converter will work well for resistance loads. A pure sine wave inverter could be considered if electronic devices might be used. 
Run a pair of 10-gauge, 12-volt wires that are fused to the inverter location. Then run a 14-gauge 120-volt wire to the fridge location and provide a dedicated duplex receptacle. The outlet must be a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI), if accessible from the ground. To be code compliant, you also should provide a 120-volt, 10-amp breaker for overcurrent protection.
Install at least a 500-watt inverter and plug the fridge in only while traveling, with the engine running. A couple of warnings should be mentioned: If the fridge is equipped with an ice maker, the bail should be raised to prevent an ice harvest that could overload a 500-watt inverter. Not all motorhomes have extra alternator capacity to handle another 500-watt (42 amps) load if traveling at night. Lights, air conditioner, heater, stereo, and other loads might max out the alternator capacity.
previous post
Recall Corner: March 2017
next post
Readers’ Forum: March 2017

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