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Family RVing Magazine

Medora: Small Town – Big History

May 1, 2026
Medora: Small Town – Big History
Aerial view of the town of Medora, North Dakota, outside of Theodore Roosevelt National Park.

Medora, North Dakota’s fascinating past forms the backdrop for visiting and volunteering in the town today.

By Steve & Gail Ault
May-June 2026

Looking for a positive travel experience? We suggest the “Branson” of the Badlands — Medora, North Dakota. Every town has a story to tell, but Medora’s may be a little more spectacular than most.

Three men played pivotal roles in the development of the town: the Marquis de Mores, its arrogant French founder; Theodore Roosevelt, the great hunter and 26th U.S. president; and Harold Schafer, a successful entrepreneur who saved the town from ruin.

Medora's early days.

Medora’s early days.

Medora was named for the wife of the founder, French nobleman Marquis de Mores; she was also the daughter of a wealthy eastern banker. At age 24, the marquis convinced his father-in-law to finance a brilliant idea. Instead of shipping live cattle to Chicago and other eastern ports, he suggested processing the beef in Medora and shipping it in refrigerated railcars, using ice from the Little Missouri River. The area seemed perfect; in addition to the river nearby, coal was abundant, as was good grassland for grazing cattle.

It appeared that nothing could stop the marquis’ success. He purchased 11,000 or so head of cattle, 12,000 sheep, and 12,000 acres of land and started to build a town with a slaughterhouse, incorporating the most advanced scientific principles. Within six months, the town of Medora began to take shape.

Cattle contributed to Medora's early growth.

Cattle contributed to Medora’s early growth.

The West was changing during this time. The rails crossed the Little Missouri River in 1880, and on September 5, 1883, President Ulysses Grant stopped at the town of Little Missouri, near Medora, on his way to a ceremony in Gold Creek, Montana, where the final railroad spike was driven to connect the east and the west.

About that time, a young Theodore Roosevelt arrived to hunt and shoot a trophy bison. Roosevelt had already been elected to the New York State Assembly. On September 8, 1883, he arrived in Little Missouri. Across the river, Medora was just evolving. On September 20, after days of roughing it, he got his bison.

Days earlier, Roosevelt had sent his wife a note complaining about the desolate area, crude housing, and vulgar and violent men. What a shock when, 10 days later, he wrote a check for $14,000 to purchase 400 cattle and the Maltese Cross Ranch (also known as the Chimney Butte Ranch). He returned to New York and resumed his life in politics.

The Maltese Cross Cabin

The Maltese Cross Cabin

The following February, both his mother and wife suffered serious health complications. At 3 a.m. on February 14, his mother died from typhoid fever; 11 hours later, Alice passed from kidney disease. In June of that year, a shattered TR returned to the Badlands, the Maltese Cross Ranch, and cabin.

Medora now consisted of 84 buildings. By June 2, an addition to the processing plant was completed, increasing production.

Visitors can tour the Maltese Cross Cabin today.

Visitors can tour the Maltese Cross Cabin today.

Roosevelt credited this area of the country for helping him heal from the loss of his mother and wife. He purchased a second property and named it Elkhorn Ranch. He hired a crew to build a 17×24-foot cabin and purchased an additional 1,000 head of cattle.

But by the fall of 1885, the grasslands were stressed from a summer drought and overgrazing by multiple herds of cattle. In the summer of 1886, fires broke out on the range, followed by temperatures that soared into the 100s. Then came the winter storm of 1888, which caused a devastating loss of human and animal life. Tens of thousands of cattle perished, including Roosevelt’s. He lost a third of his wealth. He returned to New York and politics, which eventually led him to the presidency, and only occasionally returned to the Badlands.

In the following years, Medora, like many mining and small farm towns, fell into disrepair.

In 1947 Congress established Theodore Roosevelt National Park adjacent to the town — to date, the only national park named after a person (nps.gov/thro). The park’s South Unit lies just west of Medora, and the North Unit is southwest of Watford City. The Elkhorn Ranch Unit preserves the ranch where Roosevelt retreated to after the deaths of his wife and mother.

Burning Hills Amphitheatre

Burning Hills Amphitheatre

In 1957 volunteers constructed an outdoor site one mile west of Medora, which became known as the Burning Hills Amphitheatre. On summer weekends from 1958 to 1965, the amphitheater hosted “Ol’ Four Eyes.” a theatrical production that recounted Roosevelt’s life in North Dakota.

The Rough Riders Hotel

The Rough Riders Hotel

Then huge changes became obvious when multimillionaire Harold Schafer set about saving Medora.

At age 30, Schafer started a floor wax business in his basement. A year later he established the Gold Seal Company, and produced such products as Glass Wax, Snowy Bleach, and Mr. Bubble, which made him immensely wealthy.

Schafer purchased Medora’s Rough Riders Hotel in 1962 and turned it over to the North Dakota State Historical Society to use as a museum. The legislature rejected the offer and returned the deed. Schafer then vowed to ignite the “Magic of Medora.” He proceeded to use his wealth to preserve the hotel and promote the town by adding water and sewage systems, paving streets, and making other improvements. He purchased and refurbished many rundown buildings to create a community with a positive lasting impression. After Schafer sold Gold Seal Company in 1986, he created the Theodore Roosevelt Medora Foundation with the vision to preserve Medora for generations to come.

Sizzling food at the Pitchfork Steak Fondue.

Sizzling food at the Pitchfork Steak Fondue.

In 1965, the first edition of the revamped “Medora Musical” began — and it has been performed nonstop since. The wholesome production is a compilation honoring country, faith, and family, and pays tribute to our “conservation president” with a bit of his biographical history. It includes patriotic songs, gospel music, animals, and a rousing finale with fireworks.

The Pitchfork Steak Fondue takes place outdoors with picnic tables under cover, offering panoramic views of the area. Steaks are placed on pitchforks and cooked in hot oil — not your normal steakhouse.

The Old Town Hall Theater

The Old Town Hall Theater

Many other venues fill Medora today. The Old Town Hall Theater features excellent Theodore Roosevelt impersonators and variety shows with comedy and magic. The Town Square Showhall provides a great meal during the Gospel Brunch, with outstanding singers and a motivational message some days; on others, Theodore Roosevelt stand-ins perform. The Harold Schafer Heritage Center museum follows the business mogul’s life. We highly recommend the video where Harold states, “I don’t think I’ve been any more generous . . . than anyone else. I’ve just been fortunate to have more to give with than most other people do.”

Chateau de Mores State Historical Site

Chateau de Mores State Historical Site

Medora is a family destination, offering various programs designed for children, including a lazy river and pool area, a laser shooting gallery, and a playground. Other attractions include the North Dakota Cowboy Hall of Fame, gift shops, fudge and ice cream stores, restaurants, mini golf, a zip line, horseback riding, and the Chateau de Mores State Historical Site — a 26-room building that once served as the summer residence of the marquis’ family. If you’re into golf, the Bully Pulpit Golf Course is considered one of the top courses in the nation. With a town population of 121, that is remarkable. Hope to see you in Medora!


Want To Volunteer?

Volunteer jobs are available in many areas to suit individual skills and abilities, whether you’re a returning member of the Medora family or joining the Theodore Roosevelt Medora Foundation (TRMF) for the first time (foundation.medora.com/volunteer).  We chose to be “Green Vesters” for TRMF, a minimum eight-day stint that involves greeting the public, helping seat visitors in the stadium, working the Pitchfork dinner, plus filling in at the abovementioned venues.

The Theodore Roosevelt Medora Foundation provides you with clean quarters, or you can stay in your RV at the Medora Campground. A separate building for “gathering” includes an exercise room, computer room, chapel, and pool table. Meals are included, along with free access to most TRMF venues. The work typically involves three assignments each day, totaling 5 to 6 hours.

Other volunteer opportunities are available at Theodore Roosevelt National Park; the Cowboy Hall of Fame; and the new Theodore Roosevelt Presidential Library, which is scheduled to open on July 4, 2026 (trlibrary.com). A walking trail around the library will offer panoramic views. This state-of-the-art facility will move you from one point of TR’s life to another.  It is adjacent to the current outdoor theater and Pitchfork Steak Fondue . . . just another great addition to this small community
with a big heart.

Theodore Roosevelt Medora Foundation
foundation.medora.com  |  (701) 394-8854

Medora Vacation Center
medora.com  |  (800) 633-6721

North DakotatravelmedoraPresident Theodore Roosevelt
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