Support Needed
Dear RV Doctor:
We just purchased our first motorhome, a preowned 2006 28-foot model. The unit is in great shape, and I would like to keep it that way. I want to clean the roof, but I have heard that you can’t walk on all motorhome roofs. How can I tell if I can walk on the roof of my motorhome or if I’ll have to use a ladder all around the sides to clean it?
Patrick Hooker, Denver, Colorado
The vast majority of motorhomes today have a solid roof that’s strong enough to support you during normal maintenance procedures. If the motorhome is outfitted with a ladder, it’s a given that you can walk on it. With today’s technology, stick-constructed roofs are almost a thing of the past. A soft roof that will not support your weight will show visible rafters placed about 24 inches apart, and there will be noticeable dips in the aluminum. If the roof surface material is rubber EPDM, fiberglass, or TPO, it’s safe to work up there. Just wear rubber-soled shoes and take care when using water or cleaning agents, as being up on the roof, especially when it’s wet, can be risky business.
Rusty Hood
Dear RV Doctor:
We have a 2000 motorhome that has a range hood problem. We are getting moisture in the compartment that is part of the range hood, and this has caused the hood to begin to rust. We have been told that the coach manufacturer has gone out of business and that there are no aftermarket parts available. We would appreciate any suggestions to get replacement parts.
Walt Spichtig, Aptos, California
Keep in mind that the range hood is a purchased item that the motorhome manufacturer simply installed. Look for any identifying supplier name or markings on the hood itself. In some cases, the range hood is produced by the same company as the range or cooktop. Replacement components are probably still available, but it does require identifying the manufacturer.
Is it the range hood above the cooktop that is rusting or the outside exhaust vent? The exterior exhaust vent for the hood has a baffle plate that opens when the fan is operating. To prevent critters and moisture from entering, it also should have a locking tab to keep this plate closed and locked when the motorhome is not in use. The exterior vent assembly probably is still available, too.
You will find that most RV components used in orphaned motorhomes are still available. The motorhome builder basically completes a puzzle by purchasing individual supplier products and incorporating them into the design of its motorhomes. So, even when a motorhome manufacturer is forced to close its doors, the suppliers that build the components likely are still viable and solvent. It all depends on whose range hood the manufacturer used on your motorhome.
Acceptable Add-On?
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a 6-gallon DSI Suburban LP-gas water heater in my coach. I would like to convert it to electricity, but I noticed that the original plug with the anode rod has to be removed and a new plug with the heating rod inserted in its place. Will this ruin my heater in due time?
Kenneth Fuller, Albany, New York
The short answer is yes, it very well could. It is not recommended or approved by Recreation Vehicle Industry Association or Suburban to install an aftermarket heating element into the water heater. Only those water heaters with a factory-installed heating element, properly and thermostatically controlled, are recommended. There are some very nice products available in the aftermarket, but, unfortunately, there are some that violate codes, standards, or general safety precautions and should be avoided. The anode rod is a necessary factory-installed component for Suburban heaters and should not be removed except for inspection and replacement, or when draining and flushing the heater tank. Installation of nonapproved products will indeed void the original warranty and, in the case of the heating rod element, also create product and personal safety concerns. I wish I had better news for you, but I cannot recommend the aftermarket heating element. Suburban does manufacture an electric/gas water heater, however.
Leftover Water
Dear RV Doctor:
There seems to be a question as to whether the fresh water tank should be emptied when the motorhome will not be used for a month or longer. Could you clarify whether it is necessary to drain the tank?
Gary Butler, Wooster, Ohio
As far as emptying the fresh water tank prior to periods of nonuse, it’s totally up to you. Today’s storage tanks, made from polyethylene, do not pose the same bacteria concerns as did metal tanks used years ago. Depending on the quality of water you put in there, it’s probably fine to leave it.
But some motorhome owners drain the fresh water tank to lessen the weight of the motorhome. And I know some RVers who never put water in the fresh tank and only use bottled water for cooking and drinking and use the campground facilities for bathing. Personally, I think this is going a little overboard, but since it’s up to the owner, anything is plausible.
Most people typically keep the leftover water in the tank after a trip and then flush and refill prior to the next excursion. It is good to keep the seals moist in the water pump, the toilet, the holding tank valves, etc. But I’d definitely drain, flush, and sanitize the system before going out again.
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