Rubber Or Wax
Dear RV Doctor:
I am replacing the closet flange seal under the toilet in my coach. I need to know how the seal goes in. Does it sit in the flange ring on the floor? Or do you first fit it around the toilet horn? The old seal was just sitting on top of the floor. Is that the right way to install it? Should I use a wax seal?
Ed Rhoads, West Valley City, Utah
I recommend using a rubber seal instead of the wax ring seal. During the hot summer months, it’s likely the toilet mounting will become loosened as the wax ring softens. Retightening the toilet mounting bolts will help, but the thickness of the wax seal will be greatly reduced with each tightening.
With a rubber foam seal (see photo), I simply slip it over what you call the plastic horn on the bottom of the toilet. If you just place it on the floor flange, inside the flange bolts, it’s likely to become dislodged while lowering the toilet into place. It should stay attached to the bottom of the toilet as you lower it into place. Some rubber flange seals may be constructed large enough to actually slip over the flange bolts and stay centered on the flange itself. In this case, the bolts can hold the seal in place as you lower the toilet.
To be safe, I recommend using a rubber seal that actually fits between the flange bolts and attaches to the toilet.
Home Shore Power
Dear RV Doctor:
I would like to install an electrical outlet at our house to plug our Type A motorhome into when it is parked there. I only want 30-amp service. Should I install a 30-amp, 3-wire, 120-volt outlet or a 240-volt, 30-amp outlet?
Robert Thornburg, Via e-mail
Many RVers with a home base have opted to install an RV circuit to accommodate their motorhome. I am a fan of such modifications, as long as they are installed per code and by a qualified and licensed electrician or electrical contractor.
The first step is to determine whether your existing panelboard distribution box has the capacity to add a 30-amp circuit “” not just that you have the physical space in your panelboard to install another breaker, but that you also have 30 amps of spare electrical service capacity coming into the main panel at your house.
The next step is to acquire the proper materials to add a 30-amp sub-panel and the associated wiring. Unless the distance of the run between the main panel and the new sub-panel location is extremely long, be sure to use 10-gauge conductors. If the run is exceptionally long, 8-gauge wire or heavier should be used. The electrician will be installing a 120-volt, 3-wire, 30-amp receptacle. The RV 30-amp receptacle is common only to the RV industry. That configuration is not used in any other application, so you may have to purchase one from a local RV service center rather than from a commercial electrical parts house. Do NOT wire two legs of 120 volts into a 240-volt configuration!
The three conductors will consist of one hot lead (black), one neutral lead (white), and one ground conductor (bare copper or green). Protect the circuit with a 30-amp circuit breaker. I would further suggest installing an on-off switch at the receptacle box as well “” one that can be locked out when not needed. Be sure to use the appropriate tubing, conduit, 4×4 boxes, conductors, breaker, and enclosures that comply with the National Electrical Code (NEC) and any local standards in your area. Again, your best resource is a licensed and qualified electrician. Notice that I almost always use “licensed” and “qualified” in the same sentence when referring to electricians.
It’s not a difficult task, and I highly recommend having a dedicated RV receptacle at the house, especially if the electrical integrity of the other circuits in the home is unknown or dubious. The best location for the RV receptacle is one in which the use of an extension cord in order to connect the motorhome is not required. If you must use an extension cord, be sure that it, too, is rated for 30 amps of current flow, and use the shortest extension possible. Avoid a coiled 100-foot extension cord when a 20-footer would do the job. The less length, the less heat. The less heat, the less resistance. The less resistance, the less voltage drop. Obviously, less, in these instances, is better!
TPO Tear On Top
Dear RV Doctor:
I’m considering purchasing a used Cruise Master motorhome with an 8-inch tear in the TPO (thermoplastic polyolefin) roof. It’s not too deep, but deep enough to get your fingernail in. Is this type of damage repairable on TPO? I’m also concerned about a soft spot about 6 to 8 inches in diameter just off the centerline. The reason I ask is the roof warranty is nontransferrable, so nothing is covered if I buy this motorhome. What do you think?
E. Knowles, Baltimore, Maryland
For just about any roof repair, I recommend Eternabond sealing tape. Take a look at this information on the Eternabond Web site (www.eternabond.com/articles/tpo-roof-repair-and-maintenance.htm) detailing the specifics about TPO repairs.
The only precaution is that the repair area must be clean and totally dry. I’ve had success with this product on aluminum, EPDM (rubber), TPO, and fiberglass. As far as the soft spot goes, it could be evidence of a leak with possible substrate damage. The only way to know for sure is to remove a portion of the TPO and inspect the plywood substrate below. If you really like this coach in all other aspects, I don’t feel that this should be a deal breaker. It could, however, be a negotiating chip. Keep a close eye on the soft spot after you repair the tear. If it continues to grow in area, or become softer, it may be time to take a deeper look at the substrate. You also should inspect the ceiling inside the motorhome below the area on the roof that appears to look soft.
In my opinion, it all should be fixable. Be sure to inspect every component and seam on the roof. You can use Eternabond just about everywhere up there.
Interior Wall Removal
Dear RV Doctor:
I have an older RV that I just bought. It is kind of a project for me, and one of the things I’d like to do is open up the bathroom area in back. But to do so, I would have to remove a cabinet and two short inner walls. Not having worked on motorhomes before, I’m wondering whether I can just remove the walls or if they serve some load-bearing function. They are located on the back wall and don’t seem to do anything but divide space, but I don’t want to make a major mistake.
Joel Kitchen, Taylors, South Carolina
Depending on the age of this motorhome, there should be no load-bearing interior walls to worry about. (Some really old wood-framed motorhomes may include load-bearing interior walls.) More than likely, the walls in your motorhome are simply hollow partition walls used to create separation between areas of the RV. You’ll probably also find screws coming into the cabinets from the outside in. These can simply be cut using a hacksaw or a reciprocating saw. Have fun! It can be a rewarding project.
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