Clunking
I bought a preowned 2007 Safari Damara B-Plus M-293 TS. When I test-drove the motorhome before making the purchase, I noticed a clunking sound in the rear. After buying the motorhome, I took it to a hitch shop, where it was determined that the sound was not coming from the receiver. But I went ahead and bought a new bracket and had it installed, thinking that once the towed car was attached, the clunking sound would stop. However, it is still there, and every time I have it serviced, I am informed about the clunking sound. The sound seems to be coming from an area between the box and rails. When I make turns, it is still there. I did talk to a man who helped build the units at Safari, and he has no idea what it could be. This has proven to be quite a mystery.
Robert Hicks, F220497
Hudson, Florida
It sounds to me as though you have a loose nut or bolt rattling around inside a frame rail. You need to find it, as it could be a body-mount nut or bolt, which could cause additional problems down the road. You didn’t mention when you purchased the coach, but did say you noticed the noise during the pre-purchase test drive. Did you happen to ask the sales staff what was causing it? If it hasn’t been long since you bought it, perhaps you could have the dealership look into correcting the problem. If you find that the noise is coming from a loose nut or bolt that is not critical — just one that was left during assembly — you might be able to corral and secure the item with spray-in expandable foam.
Another suggestion would be to put the motorhome on a lift using the frame only to unload the suspension, then have the shocks, sway bars, and suspension mounts and rubber bushings all checked for looseness. Many times in the area where these parts are attached to the frame, you will find rust drips or a different color of metal, indicating that those parts have moved. Also check the box frame by banging on it with a hammer and listening for a delayed metallic sound.
Weathered Windows
I have a 1997 Four Winds Hurricane motorhome. The outer rubber around the windows has shrunk in the corners of most of the windows. I would like to replace this rubber. The windows are of the horizontal slide type. Two sizes of rubber are used, depending on whether it’s the inner or outer pane. I cannot find these at my local RV stores in Canada, although I see the same problem occurring on many similar windows. Do you know of a source, and is there any special way to install this material?
Gerrit Van Vrouwerff, F356687
Ridgetown, Ontario
Not being an expert on motorhome windows, I consulted Mike Smart of Flawless Auto Glass Service in Kingman, Arizona, for some assistance with your question. Here’s what he had to say.
“I have run across this situation many times, and I also have had no luck locating the replacement rubber molding. Since there are two different-size moldings, they would be very difficult to find without having samples of the two rubber seals. They are more of a lock strip than a seal. The actual seal is under the glass on the aluminum frame itself. What I have done in the past is remove the strips and reinstall them, filling the leftover gap with polyurethane sealant. The sealant matches the strip well once the urethane has been on for a little while. It serves the purpose without replacing the entire strip. I would recommend a UV-resistant polyurethane or equivalent in order to prevent deterioration in the future. Removal and installation of the strips are pretty straightforward. To remove, just start on one end and pull it out. To install, you can begin on one end and simply push the strip in place with your thumb or a tool that is blunt on the end, working your way around. It needs to start at an angle, so insert the strip into the inner groove first and then press to seat the strip to the outside.”
Weak Window
I own a 1997 Monaco Dynasty. I’m trying to find a replacement for the pilot window. I received a price from a local RV repair shop for $2,000, which seems very high. Any suggestions?
Richard Dellagiustina, F107558
Chicopee, Massachusetts
I’m not sure what you mean by pilot window, but if you’re referring to the driver’s-side windshield, your insurance may cover it. I just had a new windshield installed because of a crack that kept growing, and my insurance covered 100 percent of the cost. I would suggest that you first contact your insurance agent and then request a reference to one of its approved glass shops.
If you do find that you need to locate a glass shop on your own, below is a list of FMCA commercial members that specialize in RV windshields and windows. Perhaps a call to one of these companies will help you find the right window at a fair price.
Coach Glass: (800) 714-7171; www.coachglass.com
Duncan Systems: (800) 551-9149; www.rvglass.com
Fred’s Windshield Repair: (918) 654-9495
Guardian RV Glass: (800) 662-4544; www.guardianautoglass.com
Nomad Glass (10 percent discount to FMCA members): (800) 808-9762; www.nomadglass.com
RV Glass Service: (877) 899-1717; www.rvglassservice.com
RV Glasparts: (503) 752-8207
Suncoast Designers: (727) 868-2773; www.suncoastdesigners.com
Wilkinson Glass: (800) 590-3014
Xtreme Paint & Graphics: (936) 560-5888; www.xtremegraphics.net
Leaking Ice Maker
In response to the “More Cool Advice” letter from Gary Lewis, F340150, about his leaking ice maker (December 2013, page 16), I had exactly the same problem with the Norcold refrigerator in my 2006 Allegro Bus. It was not a valve or connection problem, but the ice tray itself was leaking from one of the corners. Replacing the ice maker solved the problem. The technician who replaced it told me he had seen this problem a number of times with that particular ice maker.
Dave Schneider, F371767
Glendora, California
Thanks for the information, Dave. Another cause could be that the ice maker may be injecting too much water into the ice mold. Many ice makers have a “+” or “-“ screw to adjust the quantity of water.
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