By Gary Bunzer
Sticky Leveling Situation
Dear RV Doctor:
We have a 2007 “new to us” Georgetown motorhome. We have used the Lippert Components leveling system five times — during the walk-around at the dealer when we picked it up (worked fine); that evening at a campground (worked fine); in our driveway a couple of weeks later (all jacks stuck down); camping a couple of weeks later (worked fine); and during an end-of-season trip (rear jacks stuck down).
The first time the jacks stuck, we didn’t know what to do, so we called Lippert. They had us measure voltages, and then they concluded that because there was no voltage, the solenoid was bad. We had to manually release the jacks. Then we researched online and learned of the jackknife breaker near the battery. Once it reset, we were in business. Glad we didn’t rush to replace the solenoid. We used the jacks once after that without issue.
Our end-of-season trip was the last time we used the system. It leveled fine, and after three days we tried to retract the jacks, but the rear jacks stuck down. The breaker kept popping, because the system was running too long while trying to retract. We had to manually release the jacks again. What should we check to alleviate this issue? The fluid level is where it should be. Thanks!
Donna Malerba, F442646
Smithtown, New York
I’ve asked all the leveling system manufacturers to list the top three problem areas, and the responses I received are low voltage, low voltage, and low voltage! I took the liberty of contacting Lippert on your behalf, and here’s their response:
“With any of our motorized automatic leveling systems, the key to consistent proper operation is clean power at the proper voltage. Our system requires 12.75 volts to operate in the automatic mode. It is recommended that the coach engine be running while operating the leveling system to ensure proper power is supplied. Lower-voltage operation can cause amperage to increase and in some cases trip the circuit protection breaker. We would suggest that the customer check the battery to ensure it is in good condition and is providing the proper power to the pump.
“Next, check all of the 12-volt connections at the pump, the solenoid, the breaker, and battery terminals, as well as the chassis ground connection from the battery. If any of these connections have corroded over time, this can cause the system to draw greater amperage, causing the breaker to trip. Also, if the breaker has been tripped on too many occasions, it is possible that the breaker has become weak over time and is now tripping at a much lower amperage. If after doing these tests you are not able to determine the cause, please contact our Lippert Components customer service group at (574) 537-8900.”
In addition, I like to stress the importance of the ground connections in any 12-volt-DC system. It’s quite easy to overlook problems on the ground side of low-voltage circuits. Plus, the 12.75 volts Lippert mentioned should be measured at the pump, not just at the battery bank. Voltage drop from the battery to a power-hungry circuit can cause a plethora of issues regarding proper operation. And in Lippert’s defense, they might not know what the coach builder adds to the construction of the motorhome circuitry, such as the knife switch. Whatever the coach builder installs between the power source and the leveling controls/pump impacts the overall operation. But do measure for the proper voltage at the pump itself, and be sure to check those ground connections! Loose and dirty connecting points on either side of the DC system most likely will cause problems.
What In The World?
Dear RV Doctor:
I recently purchased a used 2008 coach. It has a thermoplastic polyolefin (TPO) roof with improper lap-sealant maintenance. It appears that two different types of spray were used to cover it. The photo shows what appears to be some type of brass fitting or valve (although the sealants hinder a good view) extending out of the roof on the extreme edge above the bathroom and the bedroom. What is it?
William Teas
Mount Juliet, Tennessee
Apparently, what you have is a mounting base for some type of an antenna; probably either an AM/FM radio or, more likely, a CB antenna. The missing part is the actual antenna that would thread onto this base. I’m guessing a previous owner added it, because none of my contacts has seen anything like this leaving a factory. The credit goes to RV Armor for solving the mystery. Your best bet is to simply leave it in place and seal it properly. The cable is perhaps hidden inside an overhead cabinet somewhere.
Mold-Resistant Caulk
Dear RV Doctor:
I’m looking for a brand of silicone caulk that won’t develop a fungus or mold on the motorhome exterior. I have a Gulf Stream Crescendo in Florida and have replaced the caulk in various spots around the motorhome twice. Both times, mold and fungus have returned. I’ve already tried a DuPont mildew-proof brand of caulk and a NAPA brand recommended by a painting professional, but the mold returns.
Erroll Hunger, F381803
Clermont, Florida
It’s no secret I’m not fond of using silicone sealant, but in some cases, I do relent. If you truly desire a silicone product, I’d recommend only a marine-grade sealant such as 3M Marine Grade Silicone Sealant. There’s really no perfect solution until you try it, however. Temperature extremes, humidity, and your personal level of coach cleanliness all factor into the equation. Monthly washings will certainly help. Florida weather can be harsh, especially near a coastal location. It’s beneficial to wash off the salt spray often as well. Hot, humid, damp conditions inland also can be brutal. Clean and dry are the operative words. But a marine-grade sealant might give you the edge.