Which End Goes Where?
Dear RV Doctor:
I’m embarrassed to ask, but I bought a brass water pressure regulator from an RV supply store. It came without instructions, and I didn’t think to ask. How do you use this thing? I think you connect it to the faucet in the RV park, or do you connect it to the RV? This one has a big end and a smaller end, with arrows that point toward the smaller end.
Helene Jackson, McNeal, Arizona
Helene, there’s no such thing as an embarrassing question, especially concerning RVs! The water pressure regulator you purchased is equipped with garden hose connections at each end “” female and male. Your question about where to install it is actually a good one to ask. I recommend installing it as close to the water supply in the campground as possible. With it installed on the spigot at your campsite, you are then protecting the fresh water hose as well as the RV’s entire fresh water system plumbing. It is permissible to install it directly to the city water inlet on the side of the coach, but then the hose itself will not be protected.
You probably purchased a non-adjustable regulator, which is the simplest to use. It is preset at an inlet pressure safe for all the plumbing in the RV. You just hook it up in-line with the fresh water hose. The arrows should point to the RV (in the correct direction of water flow). To avoid leaving it at a campsite, use a wrench to tighten it to the hose so that it and the hose cannot be separated by hand.
Overfull Flusher
Dear RV Doctor:
My RV toilet seems to keep filling up after it has been flushed, to the point that water fills the bowl and runs over. How do I fix it?
Tammy Clopton, Iowa Park, Texas
Tammy, there is likely a problem with the toilet water inlet valve. The most common type is called a ball valve. Either the valve is leaking or it is not closing completely, possibly as a result of the flush mechanism binding. Activate the flush mechanism several times, and make sure it is not binding or sticking. Be sure it has freedom of movement and returns to its fully closed position. If you can, reach behind the toilet to where the flush linkage connects to the water valve and manipulate the mechanism that is directly attached to the valve. If you are able to feel extra movement, then the valve probably is not closing fully. It could be partially blocked by mineral contaminants in the fresh water that may have built up on the valve over time. It’s actually better to remove the toilet from the coach in order to gain full access to the mechanism and water inlet valve. If the flush mechanism is not binding and the water valve appears to be fully closing, then it is likely leaking internally, and you can simply replace the entire water valve. Replacement parts are available for most RV toilets at any RV parts store.
Water Heater Flameout
Dear RV Doctor:
My water heater will light just fine. I ignite the pilot light, turn the valve to the “on” position, and the heater’s burner fires up. I have a nice blue flame. The problem is that the heater goes off in two to five minutes and does not heat the water. I had no problems the last time I used it before winterizing the motorhome.
Frank Merlot, Brandon, Florida
Frank, I hate to be the one to ask this, but are you sure you placed the bypass valves back into the correct position after dewinterizing? It sounds as though the cold inlet valve may be closed and the bypass valve may be open or partially open. If so, the water heater will not adequately fill with water. It would still be possible to light the pilot and have the burner ignite, however. In this situation, the temperature-sensing probe (which is supposed to be immersed in the water) would not “feel” the water getting hot since the tank is not full and the probe is exposed to air. The probe would simply shut off the gas control valve, leaving you with cold bypass water flowing through the hot side of the distribution system.
First double-check the valve positioning of the bypass plumbing. It’s possible one or more of the valves may be faulty, i.e. not opening or closing fully. Then verify that the water heater is filled properly. You get free-flowing water out of every hot faucet in the coach when the tank has filled.
One other possibility, although rare, is that the thermocouple or the electromagnet in the gas control valve may be faulty, thereby not holding the gas valve open long enough. I would recommend having the millivolt output of the thermocouple measured, making sure it produces a minimum of 12 or 13 millivolts. Always measure thermocouple output while the device is installed in the heater. Thermocouples are simple to replace if one proves faulty. If it’s the magnet in the safety valve, then it’s best to replace the entire gas control assembly. But I think I’d place my wager on one or more of the bypass valves being faulty (or closed). And don’t forget to check for spiders that have set up housekeeping in the LP-gas tube (spiders love the smell of the gas).
Plastic Fuel Tank Repair
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a 26-year-old Vogue II motorhome. It has a large black plastic fuel tank with a 2-inch-long split in it. Can it be repaired, or where on earth can I find a replacement?
Mike Bartulis, Livermore, California
Mike, the good news is that these older plastic fuel tanks were constructed of ABS. ABS is a type of plastic that, fortunately, can be “welded” easily. The hard part will be finding an RV repair facility equipped with a plastic welding kit. I know of a couple in the San Diego area, if that’s of interest to you. Plastic welding a fuel tank is completely safe, whereas welding on a metal fuel container is quite risky and takes special precautions. If you find a local shop with a plastic welding machine, a 2-inch split should be relatively quick and easy to fix. If the split is located in an area you can readily see and access, the tank can remain on the vehicle during the repair as long as the fuel level is well below the crack. But it’s a lot easier to make the repair if the tank has been removed from the coach first. That way, the entire container can be inspected. If there’s one crack, because of its age there may be more. Prior to reinstalling the tank, have it safety-tested to avoid having to remove it again and to make sure it doesn’t leak from another location.
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