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Family RVing Magazine

House Calls: February 2017

February 1, 2017

Harness To Where?

Dear RV Doctor:

I am desperately trying to determine where a plug connects on the used 1997 Fleetwood Tioga I just acquired. The plug sticks out of a rectangular hole in the area just above the monitor panel and between the oven and galley sink cabinet. The harness plug has four wires: black, red, brown, and yellow.

James Layton
Via email

It might have been for a remote generator start/hour meter panel. But that’s just a guess. If there’s a generator switch on the monitor panel, but no hour meter anywhere, that’s probably what it was. Is a generator still on the coach? You might be able to trace the wires from that plug down to the generator compartment. But if the start/stop switch and hour meter were removed, I’d guess the generator also was removed, yet the wires may still be there. A little more investigation might help to solve the mystery.


Circuit Protection

Dear RV Doctor:

At a recent seminar you jokingly said I could ask one more good question, so I hope this is it! I have been RVing for 10 years and have used the power in a lot of RV parks without any trouble. However, I’ve heard a lot of talk lately about being sure to use a good power protector, and that you should never hook up without one. Is this really an issue, or is it more of a marketing campaign to sell more protectors? I looked at the Progressive Industries EMS-PT30C portable surge protector. It costs about $250, so it’s not cheap. What do you think?

Steven Foster, F461388
Anacortes, Washington

As you probably gleaned from the seminar, I’m a big fan of circuit protection to guard against high/low voltage sources, surges, dips, etc. That particular Progressive Industries device is highly regarded, and it should serve you well. Though perhaps not inexpensive, circuit protectors do contain sophisticated electronic circuitry. And they offer cheap insurance against the higher-dollar repair that can be caused without such protection.

I don’t believe what you’ve heard is solely marketing hype; the devices actually work and can literally save a coach. I don’t know of any RV expert or educator who does not recommend them. Most modern RV parks have adequate electrical service at their pedestals, but in some cases — in particular, nearby lightning strikes — all bets are off as to how well your coach will be protected. Plus, my philosophy is that you simply cannot be too safe. I recommend circuit protectors as a wise aftermarket purchase if a coach is not so equipped.


Engine Brake Question

Dear RV Doctor:

I have a 2005 American Eagle with a 400-horsepower Cummins engine. I got in the driver’s seat recently and as soon as I started to accelerate, the motorhome started to buck. If I hadn’t had my seatbelt on, I would have hit the roof. I think the engine brake is the problem, but I am not able to find the right combination to release it. Any ideas?

Brenda Galliton
Via Email

According to my chassis expert, the Cummins 400 ISL engine was offered with either an exhaust brake or an engine compression brake. Are you sure you have an engine brake?

Most coaches are wired such that when the Allison transmission downshifts, the shift pad window indicates a gear lower than sixth when the brake is engaged. Does this happen even when the throttle is not closed? If the transmission indicates a downshift when you are still on the throttle, first suspect that the brake switch is on and the throttle positioner is not properly adjusted (that is, the throttle positioner “thinks” you closed the throttle when you actually did not).

If indeed you have an engine compression brake (such as a Jake brake), there could be a wiring issue at the engine — a pinched wire, etc. It’s also possible the throttle position switch or the exhaust brake is seizing up. If it’s a Pacbrake brand, it requires periodic lubrication.

Another thought: Make sure the air-ride suspension is properly inflated. Otherwise, the driveline may be adversely affected and the coach may jump and buck.

All in all, it’s probably best to have a Cummins dealer take a look at it to verify. By the way, did you see my review video of the 2016 American Eagle? It’s on FMCA’s YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/_R_pdr-u_18.


Igniting The Water Heater

Dear RV Doctor:

My husband and I have just purchased a used Georgie Boy that we love! We are new to this and have figured out everything except how to start the water heater. It has no controls, and the owners manual doesn’t address this. It is a gas model and has a 6-gallon tank. Thank you for any help you can provide!

Beverly Philbeck
Via Email

It sounds as though you have what’s called a direct spark ignition (DSI) water heater. It’s electronically controlled. A switch somewhere inside the motorhome must be turned on for the ignition cycle to begin. Be sure the water heater is full by running water through the hot faucets first. Never operate the water heater without having water in it. The switch may be incorporated into a monitor panel, or it may simply be a stand-alone switch plate mounted somewhere on the wall, typically in the galley area. If you can tell me the brand and model number of the water heater, I can send you the owners manual.

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