Through the life and times of a U.S. president, a salute to World War II, and simple Sunday houses, visitors glean many glimpses into the past.
By Diane Morey Sitton
October 2019
Roadsides awash with wildflowers, sky as big as a 10-gallon hat, and enough cowboy swagger to know you’re in the Lone Star State: What’s not to love about the legendary Texas Hill Country? Add a tasty side serving of German culture and you’ll have Fredericksburg, a laid-back town of about 11,000 residents some 70 miles west of Austin.
The German heritage of Fredericksburg is celebrated at its Oktoberfest, held October 4 through 6 this year.
Here, willkommen (German for welcome) and “howdy, y’all” mean the same thing. That’s because Fredericksburg was settled by German immigrants in 1846. Today, some of their descendants still live in these parts, and they keep the German culture alive, Texas-style!
Most folks begin their explorations at the Fredericksburg Visitor Information Center, one block off Main Street. An introductory video, brochures, maps, and guidebooks are available. While there, pick up the walking tour map of the famed Historic District, a treasure trove of heritage with structures dating to the 1800s. The tour features 30 sites selected from more than 700 historically significant buildings. The elephant motif that adorns the front of the White Elephant Saloon (in operation since about 1888) was a calling-card to high-stakes gamblers. The oldest Lutheran church in the Texas Hill Country, Zion Lutheran Church, was built in 1854 from hand-hewn wood and quarried limestone. The Vereins Kirche occupies the center of the Marktplatz , or marketplace. Built as a church in 1847, the hexagonal landmark also served as a fort, storehouse, and meeting hall. The original building was demolished in 1896 but was rebuilt in 1935 as a pioneer memorial. Today it serves as a museum.
Texas’ famed mesquite wood is used by talented crafters to create various kinds of home items shown at the Texas Mesquite Arts Festival.
With more than 150 specialty stores, this town is a shopper’s mecca. Most of the antiques vendors, boutiques, art galleries, and souvenir emporiums are concentrated on and off Main Street in a seven-block stretch. Don’t miss “Chocolate Diva” Lecia Duke’s European-style, liquid-centered chocolate concoctions handcrafted at her shop, Chocolat/Quintessential Chocolates. At L.M. Easterling Custom Boot Company, cowboy wannabes can get measured for custom boots. Most shops close by 5:00 p.m., so go early.
Visitors on self-guided tours can step inside part of the 1848 Kammlah House, which as of July 2019 was getting some kitchen restoration work done. It’s one of nine artifact-filled buildings that are part of the Pioneer Museum. Also on the 3-acre site is the Weber Sunday House (circa 1904), a tiny, single-room cabin. Such structures were built by German farming families who traveled long distances to do business in town on Saturdays. They overnighted in their Sunday houses so they could easily attend church in town the next morning. A one-room country school, a log cabin, and a smokehouse also illustrate 19th-century Fredericksburg.
A colorful pantry at the Sauer-Beckmann Living History Farm.
Tickets to the Pioneer Museum are available at the visitor welcome center/gift shop inside the limestone Dambach-Besier House (circa 1869); they include admission to the Vereins Kirche museum.
The focus shifts to more recent history at the National Museum of the Pacific War. Start your exploration of the 6-acre, multisite museum at the George H.W. Bush Gallery.
Beginning with the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941, and concluding with Japan’s surrender on September 2, 1945, aboard the USS Missouri, the state-of-the-art gallery tells the story of World War II’s Pacific conflict through film, news clips, testimonials, and artifacts. This gallery alone may take you more than an hour to see.
The museum’s other main collection is inside the Admiral Nimitz Gallery. It originally opened in 1968 as the Nimitz Museum, in honor of Pacific Fleet Adm. Chester Nimitz, a Fredericksburg native. The unusually shaped building was once the Nimitz Steamboat Hotel, owned and operated by Adm. Nimitz’s grandfather. Unfortunately, the Nimitz Gallery currently is closed for renovations, but it will reopen in early 2020.
A plaza outside the Nimitz and Bush gallery buildings contains the Japanese Garden of Peace; the Memorial Courtyard, a tribute to individuals, ships, and units that fought in the Pacific; and the Plaza of Presidents, a salute to the 10 American presidents who served their country during World War II.
Another part of the museum is the Pacific Combat Zone campus, two blocks east of the gallery complex, where you can see torpedo bomber and PT boat exhibits, and special living history presentations. During the 75-minute World War II Pacific Combat program, visitors are given ear protection as they witness battle re-enactments that include the firing and use of several kinds of military equipment. The program is offered one weekend a month, from March through November (except for June), and carries with it an additional fee. See the museum’s website, www.pacificwarmuseum.org, for details.
Around Fredericksburg
More major attractions await discovery. On U.S. 290, 7 miles east of Fredericksburg, is Wildseed Farms. Here, a half-mile of paved walking trails loop past fields of flowers that bloom in the spring, summer, and fall. In all, 200 acres vie for attention.
Allow time to tour the butterfly garden, grab a snack at the Brewbonnet Biergarten, and try the famous peach ice cream. The farm also produces wines. And you can shop for plants and containers in the nursery/pottery yard. A copy of the farms’ wildflower guide and seed catalog is free.
At Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park, visitors delve into the life of the United States’ 36th president. Start your explorations of the storied LBJ Ranch by getting a map and free driving permit at the LBJ State Park & Historic Site visitors center, located off U.S. 290 East, in Stonewall. Sites along the self-guided driving tour include the Johnson family cemetery; old Junction School; the airstrip; and the show barn where ranch hands care for registered Hereford cattle, descendants of LBJ’s original herd. Johnson’s vintage car collection and JetStar aircraft (nicknamed “Air Force One-Half”) are displayed near the house.
Since late 2018, the Texas White House has been closed to tours because of water damage and structural problems. But, rangers lead tours of the grounds. By the way, President Johnson also favored meetings in the shade of the old live oak on the front lawn. Eventually, the tree became known as the “Cabinet Oak.” The site overlooks the Pedernales River.
The Sauer-Beckmann Living History Farm is across the Pedernales River from the LBJ Ranch site. Here, amid a dogtrot-style house, barn, and other original structures, folks mingle with interpreters dressed in pioneer garb as they gather eggs, churn butter, milk cows, and carry out 1918-era Texas-German farm family chores. Additional features of the day-use park include a nature trail; picnic areas; fishing; and cattle that are part of the Official State of Texas Longhorn Herd. Exhibits at the visitors center showcase the LBJ ranch, regional history, and local flora and fauna.
Fourteen more miles east of the LBJ Ranch complex is Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park’s other component. Johnson’s boyhood home is open for tours in Johnson City; plus, a large visitors center there offers two 30-minute movies, a showcase of Lyndon’s life and accomplishments, and a tribute to Mrs. “Lady Bird” Johnson.
More Texas-style adventures await at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area, named for an ancient pink granite dome that punctuates the Texas Hill Country some 16 miles north of Fredericksburg. Panoramic views reward hikers who make the steep, 425-foot trek to the rock’s summit. Hikers on trails of varying lengths at the base of the dome turn their attention to native plants, numerous bird species, and wildlife.
Stars at night shine big and bright here at this International Dark Sky Park. You can pick any place in the park to marvel at the vastness of the universe. Use your eyes alone or bring your own telescope. Occasionally, members of the Hill Country Astronomers join Enchanted Rock staff and park visitors for scheduled “Rock Star” parties here. Unfortunately, no overnight RV camping is available at the park.
Finally, don’t forget Luckenbach, the namesake of a popular country song. This cool little town full of characters lies 10 miles southeast of Fredericksburg. It draws music-lovers and sight-seers with its dance hall, store, and outdoor stage.
Whether you want to explore a presidential playground, follow the footsteps of soldiers, experience the pioneer lifestyle, stroll through wildflowers, gaze at stars, or simply bask in the rustic beauty that is the Texas Hill Country, Fredericksburg has memories in the making for you. The friendly town promises unique adventures and a Texas-sized willkommen.
Further Info
Fredericksburg Visitor Information Center
302 E. Austin St.
Fredericksburg, TX 78624
(888) 997-3600
(830) 997-6523
visitorinfo@fbgtx.org
VisitFredericksburgTX.com
Area Campgrounds
This is not a complete list, so please check your campground apps or directories, or visit the RV Marketplace, published in the January issue of Family RVing and online at FMCA.com.
Lady Bird Johnson Municipal Park
432 Lady Bird Drive
Fredericksburg, TX 78624
(830) 997-4202
www.fbgtx.org/343/Lady-Bird-Johnson-RV-Park
Fredericksburg RV Park
305 E. Highway St.
Fredericksburg, TX 78624
(866) 324-7275
(830) 990-9582
www.fbgrvpark.com
Hill Country RV Park
1589 E. Main St.
Fredericksburg, TX 78624
(830) 997-5365
www.hillcountryrvpark.com
Oakwood RV Resort
78 FM 2093
Fredericksburg, TX 78624
(800) 366-9396
(830) 997-9817
www.oakwoodrvresort.com
October Fests In Fredericksburg
Four hundred festivals and events take place each year in Fredericksburg. Here are the four biggest set for October 2019.
*39th Annual Oktoberfest, October 4-6. Delicious German food, beer and wine, and live music are on tap. If you like a smaller crowd, try visiting on Friday evening or on Sunday. Tickets are required. Info: www.oktoberfestinfbg.com; for parking, see www.oktoberfestparkandride.com
*Texas Mesquite Arts Festival, October 11-13. This is the 26th annual festival, which celebrates mesquite wood sculpted into furniture, décor, and more. Make space in your RV before you go, so you can take home a treasure. Info: www.texasmesquiteartfestivals.com
*Knights of Columbus Bestfest, October 19. Craft beer; premium sausages and German-style side dishes; live music; raffles; and dancing fill the downtown Marktplatz. It’s an all-you-can-eat event, with beverages sold separately. Info: www.kcbestfest.com
*Fredericksburg Food & Wine Fest, October 26. Fest-goers can sample wines from Texas Hill Country while dining on food set forth by local gourmet chefs. Learn cooking techniques at the Grape Expectations Cooking School, and join in the Gargantuan Great Grape Toss. Wine-pairing dinners, a silent auction, and live music also are part of the fun. Info: www.fbgfoodandwinefest.com