Corroded Conduits?
Dear RV Doctor:
My wife and I have been full-timers for about three years and have a 2008 Fleetwood Providence. Lately my wife has complained about the water pressure being very low, particularly in the shower. I have not noticed this as much, since I use the campground shower, but I will admit that the flow is considerably less than before. I have a pressure regulator downstream of the water filter and softener. I keep it between 45 psi and 50 psi. I have had the water softener for about a year. Is it possible that my internal pipes are fouled or corroded so badly that water flow is being restricted? If corrosion is the issue, is there something that I can use to flush the system with to remove it? Do you have another solution?
Don Peterson
Spring, Texas
It’s unlikely that the water distribution piping is corroded. Cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) typically is not prone to sediment or corrosion accumulation. I’d temporarily remove the filter and softener from the system to see whether the low-pressure condition still exists. Any added component that restricts flow obviously will have some effect on the pressure. If the pressure and flow improve without those components in service, I’d consider raising the limit on the pressure regulator. Water systems are routinely tested at the factory with air or water pressures between 80 psi and 100 psi, so with your regulator set between 45 psi to 50 psi, you probably could boost your starting pressure somewhat (if it is adjustable). Measure the output pressure of your water pump and then set the regulator to approximately 5 psi above that number. By doing this, at least you’re not restricting the source. If you have a nonadjustable regulator, I’d replace it with one that is adjustable. As long as you don’t exceed 80 psi, I see no reason that you couldn’t raise the pressure at the regulator. Also, be sure all maintenance has been performed on the filter and the water softener. I’m certain there are strainers or orifices in there that need cleaning, etc.
Finicky Fittings
Dear RV Doctor:
After spending six months in my new-to-me motorhome, I need to check the anode rod in the Suburban water heater. The last time I did this, I could hardly remove it without Liquid Wrench on the threads, since it appeared fused to the tank. I put Teflon tape on the threads of the new rod and hope it will help when I go to remove it this time. However, I recently read some articles about products used in marine applications, such as LanoCote, which are used with dissimilar materials to prevent seizing. I’m wondering whether you have any suggestions for something suitable to prevent seized fittings on high-temperature and potable water applications?
Ken Oliver
Houston, Texas
I’ve always had good luck using RectorSeal on all male pipe threads for propane and plumbing connections. For the anode rod on Suburban water heaters, I believe RectorSeal T Plus 2 would work best. Because of its inherent Teflon and synthetics, you won’t have to tighten the anode as much, plus it lubricates the threads as you tighten. I think this is your best bet.
Refrigerator Replacement
Dear RV Doctor:
I have a 2007 motorhome that I travel and live in. I’m looking to upgrade with the goal of replacing my absorption refrigerator with a residential refrigerator. (I just don’t trust propane.) First, though, I think I’ll need to upgrade my 2,000-watt modified sine wave inverter to a 2,800-watt pure sine wave inverter. This is not a cheap upgrade. Since I do not boondock, is this the way to go?
Eric Womack
California
Since you are always plugged in to shore power, I don’t think I’d spend that kind of money to upgrade the inverter. Obviously a pure sine wave inverter produces cleaner and better output, but when you’re plugged in to electricity, it will likely function only as a smart battery charger. In addition, once any refrigerator has been cooled, the contents remain cold as you drive during the day, provided you don’t open the refrigerator numerous times. Just plug in at night and the refrigerator should be plenty cold by morning. I have seen that some motorhome manufacturers are going “all electric,” eliminating the propane system from the vehicles altogether. However, if you have a propane cooktop, furnace, and water heater, you’ll still need the gas. Just be sure to have the pressure regulator checked annually and the entire coach leak-tested a couple times each year. Propane has proven to be safe and reliable as long as the system and its components are maintained properly. Many RVers are indeed opting for a residential refrigerator in place of the absorption unit common to most. For those who stay only in campgrounds with electrical hookups, it does make sense.
Two Topics
Dear RV Doctor:
I have two issues. First, is it normal for the water heater flame to be out during those times when I’m not using any water? Second, why is my furnace blowing only cold air? I just purchased this motorhome and I’m a first-time owner.
Debbie Perrin
Vancouver, Washington
If your water heater is a direct-spark-ignition type (no pilot flame), then it will automatically shut off the propane flow and the main burner once the water in the tank is heated sufficiently. As you use hot water, cold water enters the water heater, and the heater will fire up again to heat the new water. Again, once the thermostat is satisfied, it will shut down until the water temperature cools or until you use hot water again. It’s common not to see a continuous flame.
The furnace issue can be any number of things. First, I’m assuming you do have propane in the container. Be sure all manual gas valves to the furnace are opened (if so equipped) and that you have propane flowing. Light a cooktop burner to be sure. Every motorhome must have the propane pressure set to 11.0 inches of water column, and the system should be checked for leaks each year. Also, the furnace may be due for cleaning and servicing, depending on its age and how long it’s been since its last service. Annual preventive maintenance on all the propane appliances will ensure they are operating at optimum performance. The battery bank also should be checked to verify there’s enough voltage reaching the furnace. Many furnace problems actually are caused by low battery voltage. If the pressure is set properly and the furnace is receiving sufficient fuel and voltage, internal components such as the gas valve, the circuit board, the ignitor assembly, the sail switch, the limit switch, etc., must be checked to ensure they are in working order. It sounds as though your furnace may need some professional troubleshooting to determine why it’s producing only cold air.
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