Propane Adapter Needed
Dear RV Doctor:
My Winnebago has a propane filling connector, which I’ve never used. I bought the motorhome in Chile, and the previous owner said he could not fill it there, so I fashioned an alternative connection to use a separate, external tank. Now I’d like to test the container on the coach, but I cannot determine which adapter to buy. I don’t even know if I can get one shipped to me here in Peru. Any ideas?
Patricio Carna
Peru, South America
You didn’t tell me the year of your Winnebago, but by the looks of that propane tank in the photo you sent, I’m guessing it’s not a new coach. And it must have spent some time near the ocean down there in Chile and Peru.
Before I go any further, I’d first recommend that the container be cleaned, the rust removed, and a fresh coat of protective paint be applied. Not that I notice anything immediately dangerous in your photo, but you cannot be too careful with propane. Be sure to have a professional technician test the regulator and perform a leak test on the complete system, including that tank. It also might be necessary to have the container go through a purging process if there is any evidence of moisture in the system.
The fill inlet in your photo is a 13/4-inch ACME overfilling prevention device (OPD) fitting, which is common to ASME containers. Evidently, that method of filling propane containers is not as common in South America as it is farther north. Luckily, Marshall Excelsior has an adapter coupling, part number ME569, which converts the 13/4-inch ACME threads on your tank to a male 1-5/16-inch ACME fill inlet — the same type and size found on a common gas barbecue grill. It installs without tools and is available online.
I’m not sure whether the company will ship out of the country, but it certainly cannot hurt to ask. Worse case, you could have someone here in the States order the adapter and then just mail it to you. It’s a relatively small component, even though it is made out of a brass alloy.
Coax Cable Options
Dear RV Doctor:
I am looking to replace my old antenna with a King Jack HDTV over-the-air antenna that has a built-in signal meter and mounting plate. The antenna cable comes out of the roof about a foot from the existing antenna post. When I remove the post, I will have about another two feet of cable to deal with. Can I open up the roof around the cable, pull it back inside, and bring it up under the new antenna plate? Or can I cut the cable, pull it through the hole, run it under the new plate, and add a new connector to it? Can I just take the extra two feet of cable, roll it up into a coil, and screw it to the roof? Or, would it be better to just cut the length I need, and then leave it lie on the roof and add a connector onto the cable? I hope you can answer all the above questions.
Al Butler
Via email
For that extra cable length and your questions, the answer is yes. All are options, but for coax cable, it’s quite easy to cut away the excess and install a new connector to make the shortest run possible. Coax F connectors simply twist on once you strip back the insulation; it’s very easy for any RV handyperson to handle. It’s also perfectly okay to back the excess into the ceiling void, but it’s possible a screw may pierce it when you are installing the base plate. I think cutting the cable to fit is your best option. You certainly don’t want to create more roof penetrations, or leave the excess coiled up on the roof to catch on a low-hanging tree branch.
Trek Info Needed
Dear RV Doctor:
I’m a new FMCA member and would like to make contact with someone who knows about the Safari Trek 2430. I’m having trouble finding the water pump.
Chuck Locklin, F463379
Basalt, Colorado
Welcome aboard, Chuck! Water pump locations vary quite a bit, depending on the model and year of manufacture. However, the pump should be located fairly close to the fresh-water container. If you can gain access to the fresh-water tank, it may be possible to follow the tubing out of the tank, which connects directly to the input side of the water pump. Further clues can be gleaned by turning the pump on and simply listening to it run to help determine where it might be.
Typically, pumps are installed above the floor, or at least in a heated bay or compartment, to avoid freeze damage. In one Trek model, the pump was under the gaucho; in another, it was mounted behind the manifold plumbing in a wet bay accessible from outside the coach. I remember one that was accessible from inside the rear wheel well, of all places.
In some cases, it might be necessary to remove a panel or access cover, while in others, the pump may be mounted under a simple, flip-up partition. As good as Safari was at using all available space, especially on the shorter units, I don’t think their engineers ever had to replace a water pump in one!
Another suggestion: Visit www.trektraxs.com and join Trek Tracks, an online community forum that is dedicated to all things Trek. It can be a vital resource for any Trek owner. A quick search there indicated that many owners actually relocated the water pump to a more convenient location in their rigs, after the fact. It might be worth checking out.
You might also want to try the NW Trek Fun Club, an FMCA chapter whose members own Trek motorhomes. Visit their website: www.nwtfc.com. FMCA also has other chapters for owners of Safari motorhomes, including Safari International: www.safari-international.org.